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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jan 26, 2017 10:56:54 GMT -5
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jan 26, 2017 10:53:54 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Here are some updated pics. Pulling The Motor All Cleaned Up Motor Painted
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jan 10, 2017 12:36:24 GMT -5
Acquired. Thanks!
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Dec 23, 2016 12:29:12 GMT -5
Looking for a dash harness for a 65.
Email: johnforcina@gmail.com
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Dec 7, 2016 22:25:22 GMT -5
Been a while since I've posted. Happy Holidays fellas.
I've slaved away pretty hard since I last posted. Ended up pulling the motor and doing a complete refresh on it.
all new gaskets/seals new thornton oil pan pump pickup timing set timing cover freeze plugs motor mounts water pump
Basically everything except for rebuilding the low/top end as it was rebuild about 26,000 miles ago, but sat for 10 years. Cleaned and painted the block and accessories. Painted the block with Rustoleum Aged Copper.
Also put some new repro exhaust manifolds due to pass side cracked from broken motor mounts.
Rebuilt the original Rochester and threw on a set of SSIIs that I got for a killer deal.
The fresh motor when you pop the hood definitely gives it a "sleeper" feel.
Got it registered and insured and drove it to family's house for Thanksgiving. Haven't replaced the heater core yet so the window fogged up on the way home and it sucked haha
On my to do list: Front springs Heater Core Needs some seatbelts for the wife and kids
Anyways, I'll post some pics soon and hope you guys all have a happy Holiday!
GO RAIDERS!!
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Sept 11, 2016 11:40:51 GMT -5
"Engine size 330. Original."
*scratches head*
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Sept 8, 2016 8:54:13 GMT -5
Found my pictures of the head studs. On drivers side from front of engine It had number 2 and 3 studs with only number 2 being used for the pwr steering bracket. On passenger just number 2.
Correct?
Still want to make sure bracket is fastened between two nuts?
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Sept 7, 2016 19:08:10 GMT -5
Hey guys, doing a motor refresh on the 65. When I pulled the brackets (non-ac, w/pwr steering) the brackets (pwr steering, alternator) were under the stud nuts and that just was obviously wrong.
Unfortunately, It's one thing I didn't take pictures of.
Was hoping someone could provide pics of the necessary stud locations and how the brackets mount.
I imagine the brackets sit on top of the stud nut and are captured under a second nut?
I know there was a couple on the intake as well.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Aug 6, 2016 19:07:22 GMT -5
Super jealous here! Looking forward to the video.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jul 25, 2016 11:18:18 GMT -5
This weekend I rebuilt the original 4gc from the car. It had a 4gc from a cadillac on it, sitting on the original throttle body that was improperly jetted and running extremely rich.
On the throttle body the secondaries were seized and had been for a while. Rat turds and all sitting on the secondary butterflies.
Mounted up the rebuilt carb and realized secondaries wouldn't open. Unbolted and played around and found if the carb body wasn't pushed all the way back towards the firewall while bolting that the secondaries would hit the manifold and could not open. Obviously why they seized to begin with.
Car is running way better with the original carb!
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jul 22, 2016 11:35:22 GMT -5
Ugh,
We'll I've replaced the headlight and turn signal switches and still have the same problem.
To answer a previous question with parking lights and no lights the signal behaves as it should. With headlights on it stays lit constantly.
I'm going to start tracing between the switch connector and dash connector. It's a mess under there. Really need to rewire the main harness and clean it up.
Electrical is not my strong suit. It's a lesson in patience for sure.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jul 3, 2016 10:26:46 GMT -5
So I confirmed all exterior lighting is working as its supposed to.
I'll have to check if it behaves different with parking lights on.
Today I'll recheck both sides of the turn signal connector.
Definitely need a new switch either way as its a little wet noodle feeling.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jul 2, 2016 17:29:14 GMT -5
I guess it's down to the turn signal switch in the column. I've gone through everything else. Flasher is good, new bulbs, chased all the cluster wiring.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jul 2, 2016 14:22:38 GMT -5
Ha, I wish it was, but no. I wouldn't think it's always supposed to be on, but it is. It flashes when I use the blinker. Been chasing a number of electrical problems.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jul 2, 2016 10:35:47 GMT -5
Hey guys, just wondering on the cluster is the green lights for the turn signals supposed to be always on and then flash when the blinker is on?
Or is it only supposed to be on when flashing?
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jun 28, 2016 11:33:15 GMT -5
Is there a source for the flapper valve and tube to the air cleaner?
Also, should the fitting on the rear of the throttle body be capped? When I've capped it it bogs down pretty hard. Or should I add the pcv to the drivers side cover which according to assembly manual connects to the throttle body?
Car is a Fremont built car originally sold in Washington State.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jun 18, 2016 23:34:14 GMT -5
I'll try and research some more. As far as I can tell there's just a v8 and v6.
On yours, can you break that 90 like mine is or does it stop there?
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jun 18, 2016 23:22:42 GMT -5
Basically mine would look exactly like Bro's if it wasn't breaking that 90 degrees.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jun 18, 2016 23:17:51 GMT -5
I appreciate your help and not trying to come off as argumentative. My bellcrank looks the same as yours with a slight offset. It's hard to tell but Bro's looks like it has that same offset.
What I notice on the one in the eBay pic and don't see on yours or mine is that it looks like it has a tab on it so that it can't break that 90 degrees that mine is breaking.
The v6 linkage has what looks like a turnbuckle that the rod screws into vs the pivot stud.
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Post by fromthegrave65 on Jun 18, 2016 22:39:33 GMT -5
The only difference I can see is that on yours the pivot ball in the linkage is in the center of the tab and on mine (and in Bro's kinda) it's slightly offset. Maybe a Fremont thing?
But in the chassis manual and assembly manual the v6 linkage looks totally different. Unmistakably different.
Do you recall any type of bracket holding the rod parralel?
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