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Post by oldsproject on Dec 19, 2010 12:59:26 GMT -5
Great articles postcar, I use the vacuum gauge religiously. It's amazing what a pinhole leak will do to your power band and in these old engines, there's lot's of ways that can happen. BTW, my personnal view on why the Cloyes timing positions are off for the 65 is related to the 45 degree timing bank. It was the same way on the 67 425 I rebuilt. The Mondello Tech books tells you to line up the 0-0 marks at 6:00 with #6 at TDC on the compression stroke. But keep in mind, Joe worked on a lot of 68 and older motors. I haven't sat down to figure it out but bet that might have something to do with it
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 18, 2010 23:47:33 GMT -5
Bro I'm like you i wont believe until i see some hard facts not second or third hand stories. back to the control arms. Here in Ohio we always make fun of west Virginians I'm thinking we should change that and start making fun of those who live in Indiana that's where i got this car from I've never seen such a butch-rd car before wow just a little bit of duct tape here and there and all the hillbilly chrome is in place. Yo DUDE, double thin ice! I may be in Oregon but lived a great deal of my life in NW Indiana. You Buckeye's are just "NUTS".... ;D
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 18, 2010 23:44:51 GMT -5
Well, before we all get too excited, let's see if it works but my moneys on yes. I have the exact setup and just got finished setting it up so pretty sure that will do it.
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 18, 2010 19:46:02 GMT -5
So what you are saying is you figured out why my car runs like shit. As it is right now the cam is 4 degrees retarded because I set the timing chain sprockets at 0/0. It has a stock replacement cam from Supercars and the Cloyes timing set. Affirmative, if you set it to 0-0 then your likely getting a good idle (hard lobe), maybe drivable/good low-end but really sucks after that. Moving it to the triangle-0 will advance the camshaft to where you need it which obviously is different then advancing the ignition timing. I would guess you didn't check the centerline or degree it when you put it in? Here's the cam spec:
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 18, 2010 12:59:18 GMT -5
I would definitely pull that pump.(on this build) put a std pump. you should be fine on the track w/ the stock pump and pan. Keep the RPM under 6,000 for long blasts on the track or highways. If you go deep pan than go w/ the HV pump. this is from experience and research. Absolutely nut on!
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 18, 2010 12:57:05 GMT -5
RAMZ, glad you have thick skin, you need it sometimes on here. You gotta admit the tranny is the best one yet though ;D Sure you've gotten enough advice on you sour engine but aside from the wrong degree bank on the cam a major mistake many people make if using a Cloyes True Roller timing gear is to line the 0's in the standard GM setting. You need to advance it 4 degrees to get the cam at factory settings. At lease everyone I've degreed in has been that way. Good luck. The timing set is a Cloyes double roller. I put it in 0 on 0. The 65 400 cam gear needs to be in the advanced position. Triangle and 0 aligned for factory setting. At least it is that way on the supercars and mondello cams I've degreed end up. Checked the cam both ways centerline and degree methods. Here's an example of the current one as measured against the cam card in the advanced setting: Intake @ .050 = Opening -6.5 (vs . -4.5), Closing 34 (vs 31.9), Centerline 109.6 (vs 108), Duration 207.5 (vs 207.4) Exhaust @ .050 = Opening 35 (vs 42.5), Closing -7 (vs -15.4), Centerline 112 (vs 119.2), Duration 208 (vs 207.1)
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 18, 2010 11:34:11 GMT -5
RAMZ, glad you have thick skin, you need it sometimes on here. You gotta admit the tranny is the best one yet though ;D
Sure you've gotten enough advice on you sour engine but aside from the wrong degree bank on the cam a major mistake many people make if using a Cloyes True Roller timing gear is to line the 0's in the standard GM setting. You need to advance it 4 degrees to get the cam at factory settings. At lease everyone I've degreed in has been that way. Good luck.
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 18, 2010 11:28:03 GMT -5
Pistons are from Supercars, here's a picture: You recall what the number is and if they have any markings on the underside of the piston? Just pulled my 400 down to check everything and it has '68-70 350 pistons. The bore on a 350 is 4.057. My engine is .060 over so that puts me right at .0035 - .0045 piston/bore clearance. just right. The pistons measured 4.053 to 4.055. No markings, look like exact reproductions and the originals I pulled. Did you have your pistons when they did the bore to get proper clearances. Most shops will only do a rough bore then finish once they get the pistons. Here's a link, note that the 68-70 350 pistons have a dish versus the 400 which is flat top www.supercarsunlimited.com/Items.cfm?CategoryID=104
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 16, 2010 22:08:57 GMT -5
In the railcar industry they call those lead sleds .
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 16, 2010 18:33:42 GMT -5
Was getting ready to install and tourque my heads down, had the head gasket on while oiling the bolt threads. Oil got onto the head gasket around each bolt hole. Wiped it off but concerned it won't seal now. I intend to coat it with copper VHT but not sure that will do it. Need new head gaskets or go for it? Appreciate any thoughts.
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 15, 2010 20:39:01 GMT -5
Love the deer horns, gotta be something like a 15 pointer! I'd shoot it, whatcha say there Bubba?
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 11, 2010 10:58:10 GMT -5
Here's a few of what I've got going on: Undecided Freemont Project (Scrap, Part or Fix) In Process Lansing Car Nearly Finished Freemont Car: The Wish List for Christmas :
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 5, 2010 21:33:44 GMT -5
That's enough proof for me
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 5, 2010 21:09:27 GMT -5
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 3, 2010 21:47:56 GMT -5
So it seems a 442 is worth 3 times the cost of a regular cutlass. You can buy a "1" cutlass convertable for the cost of a "3" 442 HT. Seems like a good deal. Annnnnnnd a post is worth more than a coupe! I think they got it right......
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Post by oldsproject on Dec 3, 2010 13:31:06 GMT -5
Where'd ya find the 400? You already had it? Or recent find? Ended up finding two. This one is from southrn Oregon. The Julian date matches up with the build date of my car. The second one I got from Chuckie in NY. It's a great block, standard bore which I've had hot tanked and magnafluxed but the Julian date was after my car was built so it's on the shelf for now.
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Post by oldsproject on Nov 28, 2010 21:14:49 GMT -5
What kind of piston's you have installed on those rods. Pistons are from Supercars, here's a picture: The markings are how I position the ring gaps (E=Expander Gap, TO=Top Oil gap. T = top ring gap etc.) Here's a pic with rings installed: Here's the method I use for identifying which ring goes with wich piston after file gapping is completed:
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Post by oldsproject on Nov 25, 2010 10:15:11 GMT -5
Happy Turkey day from the PNW too!!
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Post by oldsproject on Nov 24, 2010 22:11:13 GMT -5
Bring it on. Get some good pics and Ill make this thread a sticky. Will do RAMZ, will dig in tomorrow starting with file gapping of the rings. Finally getting dug back in is exciting.
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Post by oldsproject on Nov 24, 2010 22:09:59 GMT -5
what shop cleaned up the engine? how much and what was done? Same guys I used before (Clackamus Auto). They're pretty good on Olds engines. Basically they hot tanked, magna fluxed, line honed, installed cam bearings, soft plugs, bead blasted, deck clean up and bored to .30 on the block. Ground the crank. Reconditioned the rods and installed pistons. Hot tank and bead blasted valve covers, Intake, timing chain cover, exhaust manifolds. About 1K Heads come back Friday, I did the porting on the heads and will install all new valves and springs myself. They will hot tank, magna flux, bead blast, install hardened valve seats (guides as needed), and 3 angle valve job. Just shy of 400 for both heads.
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