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Post by keener on Aug 24, 2011 14:52:40 GMT -5
I have an edelbrock 600 on my '64 hardtop and it works awesome. On the other hand, I also have a '64 sports coupe with an edelbrock (unsure of the cfm...maybe Grant can take a peak under the hood for us because he drives the car more than me ) and it does have some issues but nothing that could not be adjusted with a little patience. Like Grant said, any shop should be able to tune an edelbrock 600.
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Post by dolzinnig on Aug 24, 2011 17:51:55 GMT -5
Pretty sure it's a 600 or 650, which I think would be a good size for a 330. -grant
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Post by real57vetteguy on Aug 25, 2011 11:15:17 GMT -5
I pulled the edelbrock apart, gave it a good cleaning, put it back together, adjusted the fuel/air screws and moved the accel pump linkage to the top setting (less Fuel) and it ran pretty good, if I am sitting at a red light and start to take off it has 1 slight miss then takes off and runs out quite well, but it does that every time. I took it on a 20 mile drive today and was happy with it until I noticed Antifreeze dumping into the floor UGH heate core is shot. I have an assembly manual, but it doesnt tell if I need to remove the core from the inside or from the firewall, I also heard something about having to remove the fender? any suggestions? Also when I popped the hood there was oil all over the underside of the hood and carb, it looks like there is a fresh oil leak around what i assume is the sending unit at the fromt of the intake, its a fitting with a wire attached to it right beside the water neck?
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Post by mongoose on Aug 25, 2011 12:54:39 GMT -5
Heater core has to be pulled from the inside by removing the climate control box. It's possible to reach all of the nuts attached to the studs of the control box (on the firewall in the engine compartment), but it's a BIOTCH! Removing the fender makes that part easier... but then again, pulling the passenger fender isn't much fun either. If you don't plan on using the heater core in the interim while you play with the car, figure out a way you prefer to by-pass it.
Oil pressure sending unit is mounted to the top of the block in the area above the timing chain. It will be near the thermostat housing on the intake manifold. Could be your source for oil spray. If you have a lot of by-pass could also be coming from your oil filler tube or cap. Depends on the condition of the motor.
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Post by keener on Aug 25, 2011 13:53:02 GMT -5
Pull the sending unit off the intake and put some gasket shellac on the threads, then reinstall. Should fix the leak.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Aug 25, 2011 14:11:58 GMT -5
I have it by passed, but if im understanding you correctly I need to pull it from inside? Will I have to do anything on the firewall side?
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Post by keener on Aug 25, 2011 15:03:06 GMT -5
Nope, just make sure the hoses are disconnected on the firewall. There are some small bolts hidden behind the control box by the passenger kick panel. Good luck!
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Post by bil on Aug 25, 2011 18:01:29 GMT -5
The nuts have to be removed from the engine side.Rather than remove the fender,I have had good luck removing the passenger side wheel (jacking and blocking first,for all the wise-asses!) and unbolting the inner fender well.It doesn,t have to come out,just so you can get to the bolts.Use plenty of rags,etc to protect the paint.You CAN reach the bolts by going through by the hood springs,but it can be a bloody mess. ---bil
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Post by real57vetteguy on Aug 25, 2011 18:49:48 GMT -5
Well I got the car out for another drive tonight. The Carb on the car is a Edelbrock 1405, 500 CFM. After I thought it was fixed earlier today I checked the plugs which were all caked with black (fuel) residue. I replaced the plugs and took off, the car ran a bit better that the last drive. After about 30 minutes again it started loading up with fuel at low RPM's, as long as I am driving a constant 30+ MPH it run great and has good power, the minute I start though town, and red light to red light traffic it will stall out unless I throw it in neutral and keep the RPM's up a but. This carb is less than a year old I have adjust the air/fuel screws correctly which only affect the carb at idle, and I moved the acc pump linkage to the lowest possible setting (lowest fuel setting)?
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Post by real57vetteguy on Aug 25, 2011 19:13:27 GMT -5
I think my first step is checking the timing, I have noticed after the engine is warm sometimes it turns over slowly as if the timing were off. What should the timing be set at on a 330 ?
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Post by bubbasz1 on Aug 25, 2011 19:50:14 GMT -5
Well I got the car out for another drive tonight. The Carb on the car is a Edelbrock 1405, 500 CFM. After I thought it was fixed earlier today I checked the plugs which were all caked with black (fuel) residue. I replaced the plugs and took off, the car ran a bit better that the last drive. After about 30 minutes again it started loading up with fuel at low RPM's, as long as I am driving a constant 30+ MPH it run great and has good power, the minute I start though town, and red light to red light traffic it will stall out unless I throw it in neutral and keep the RPM's up a but. This carb is less than a year old I have adjust the air/fuel screws correctly which only affect the carb at idle, and I moved the acc pump linkage to the lowest possible setting (lowest fuel setting)? First thing I would check is see at an idle if their is fuel dripping from the primary ventures, my guess is their is, which would mean the fuel level is too high. This could be because their is dirt in the float valve, improperly adjusted float, bad float, or too much fuel pressure. I would guess that the timing should be around 8 Degrees before TDC, vacuum to distributor plugged, at around 700 RPM, and if that's not correct it's sure as hell, close enough.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Sept 4, 2011 21:22:21 GMT -5
Recap on my posts, the vacumme was routed wrong, timing was a bit low. I put the factory manifolds on and have drove the wheels off of it. The 330 runs decent, its got really good pull from 20-70, I'm not a big fan of the 2 speed but in due time I will change it out. The one BIG thingthat I can say is that the more I work on and drive the car the more I LOVE it. I stripped all on the inside exposed metal today and put 8 coats of primer, a lot of wet sanding and re painted/ buffed it, looks great. I have a guy coming tomorrow to look at my interior and pricing putting true leather in. I am going to order carpet and sun visors in the next week, I am also going to meet up with an old friend which little to my knowledge has a small olds "scrap yard" locally and supposedly has several 455's. I am trying to figure out what the mystery "D" in my vin number means, I dont think my car ever had any chrome plates in the door area, what I do find interesting is that I found the previous owner, which claims to be the second or third owner, they claim they knew both previous owners and that the motor is original but has been freshened up, which might not be true, but it is beyond the shadow of a doubt a 330, the car also supposedly had 130k original miles, that could be true, the trunk pan is really clean, there are no rust issues, the car still has the original interior and its nice, clean but dry very dry! I have been under the car up and down and it is a true 442, the other thing I cant figure out is that the side chrome pieces that have the 442 emblem on my car are all chrome, they show no signs of ever being painted, but all the 65 cars i see have painted to match the body color peices with the chrome outer edges? Has anyone converted their car to power windows? Ok after all my rambling, again I want to say, you guys have been a wealth of help and I greatly appreciate it!
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Post by BR[] on Sept 5, 2011 10:43:50 GMT -5
The side scoops are all chromed and then painted with the body color. Since the chrome wasn't etched to hold the paint, it would start to flake and a lot of people removed it all off rather than repaint. I'll guarantee it was painted from the factory.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Sept 6, 2011 13:48:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the info! My Drivers side window regulator was removed from the car when I bought it, I have a good regulator and glass but the bracket that actually holds the window and guides the rollers on the regulator is missing. I cant find one anywhere I look, Any ideas?
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Post by bil on Sept 6, 2011 15:53:50 GMT -5
Can't remember,too lazy to look-what body style is it? ---bil
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Post by real57vetteguy on Sept 6, 2011 16:07:46 GMT -5
1965 442 post car.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2011 10:27:34 GMT -5
I`m sure I have what your looking for. Left door, glass bottom run channel ( affixed to the glass bottom)
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Post by real57vetteguy on Sept 7, 2011 11:05:21 GMT -5
Yes that is exactly what I need
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Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2011 11:48:55 GMT -5
I`ll get back to you, I once read that before anything is sold you should have at least three, I`m not that much of a pack-rat, but I want to make sure I have at least two (left)
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Post by real57vetteguy on Sept 7, 2011 14:45:51 GMT -5
I totally understand. I been driving around in good weather and keeping the car close to home, due to not having a working driver's side window, I have called around and have a few leads but if you can part with it it would help me greatly! I dont even know or think they are side specific but I could be wrong! Anyway I will send you a message with my contact info if you decide to part with it!
Thank you
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