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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2011 21:23:22 GMT -5
hahahaha Bil, search the 1965 build cutlass done by car craft I think, you will see what I am talking about, modern muscle car wheels, good suspension. ill try to add a link. A good 18x8 up front 18x9 in the rear to throw some meat on the ground Ouch !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Whatever floats your boat, but, aren`t you losing part of what made these cars great.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Jul 27, 2011 21:33:49 GMT -5
what made them great is what they are, to improve on it is modern technology, to those that keep them original is awesome too
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2011 22:02:25 GMT -5
what made them great is what they are, to improve on it is modern technology, to those that keep them original is awesome too "WHAT MADE THEM GREAT IS WHAT THEY ARE"My point exactly. But like I said, whatever.
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Post by alldun5 on Jul 27, 2011 22:05:22 GMT -5
It's your car, build it your way. No regrets, and no explanations required.
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Post by mongoose on Jul 28, 2011 10:19:08 GMT -5
That's what's cool about it... everyone has preferences... "correct", slightly modified, highly modified.
And we know that whatever you build is not going to float EVERYONE'S boat. No way... absolutely impossible. So whatever anyone does to their car... some will high-five you for it... other's will bad mouth it, other's will just nod... and you have no idea why.
Just have fun with it. You experienced one side of the hobby... it was probably fun for a while... and now you've moved on.
People on this board like to share their opinion... whether you like it or not. Whether you stick around depends on your ability to put up with it.
Look forward to seeing the progress. BTW... you'll notice the original topic of a post sometimes gets lost in the banter. You just have to hold you hand back up to get people to focus.
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Post by bil on Jul 28, 2011 11:03:10 GMT -5
Thanks for the pic,I feel better already! ---bil PS-the thing is,these are a limited production car,but certainly not rare.Nothing you are doing is 'ruining' the car and could be reversed,and it is one more on the road. My dusty old black hardtop is getting ready,I am going to re-do the interior,and leave the old alligator paint on it for a while. Some folks might not like it,but who cares? People think my 'vert is an old original ready to restore,it is really one that has been done over,then used like it was made to be for all the years in between.Like a 16 year old original.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Jul 29, 2011 7:56:59 GMT -5
Mongoose,
Nice looking build in your SIg area. It doesnt bother me, I think everyone is being helful and sharing their opinion which is what forums are for. I totally appreciate and respect the love for putting a car back to the correct original spec's. I just really had my fill of it with the Corvette. I live in western NC where there are a lot of parkways and winding mountain roads. Just my opinion but I think to really enjoy the car it needs Air cond, which wasnt on the car from the factory, I would like upgraded suspension, a 200R4 would really help the performance and fuel mileage. I want something that the family and I can jump in and take a comfortable road trip in but also has a little extra HP under the hood, as for the 18" wheels im not looking for the monte carlo on 24's with more ground clearance than my Chevy truck look, haha. To me the picture I posted above with the cutlass that had 18's has a great stance with a good clean muscle car look, thats my goal. I have already been helped by all the posts and info and I greatly appreciate it. Right now the car drives and runs fine, I will drive it while building a 455 and 200R4, start buying suspension etc, when I get my parts punch list knocked out im going to try to pull the body, blast the frame, paint it, do the parts swap and put the body back on, I really dont want the car to be down for more than 3-4 weeks.
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Post by 442scotty on Jul 29, 2011 8:38:35 GMT -5
Thats the reason why I have two cars...the 442 is too nice and loaded with options to tinker with so I am modernizing the Cutlass slowly...I was at a car show on the weekend and a guy had a 57 Nomad...the exterior looked correct but the interior and mechanicals were all modernized for comfort driving...Best of both worlds. Done tastefully it can give these cars a new lease on life. Now if I can just add cruise to my Cutlass......
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Post by alldun5 on Jul 31, 2011 7:12:11 GMT -5
Thats the reason why I have two cars...the 442 is too nice and loaded with options to tinker with so I am modernizing the Cutlass slowly...I was at a car show on the weekend and a guy had a 57 Nomad...the exterior looked correct but the interior and mechanicals were all modernized for comfort driving...Best of both worlds. Done tastefully it can give these cars a new lease on life. Now if I can just add cruise to my Cutlass...... I do not know what you are modernizing on the Cutlass, but my computer tuner says the cruise for my '07 6.0 is a seperate unit that takes it's input from the ECM, and that signal was not removed during the conversion to stand alone. I'm hoping it works out to be that simple. Cruise would be nice.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Aug 2, 2011 14:02:39 GMT -5
I am having a heck of a time finding a dipstick & tube, any suggestions? correct fit is all that I am worried about. I have noticed that there are "spacers" between the frame and engine that someone fabbed up to raise the engine up. I am assuming that this is because whomever thought the engine was a 400 and its a 330, and they were trying to raise the headers up somewhat, there has been two sets of headers on the car and both sat way to low underneath the car to be a correct fit, could in theory this be beacuse they were putting 400 headers on a 330?
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Post by realfast65 on Aug 2, 2011 16:48:50 GMT -5
I considered 18's but couldn't go that far I still have some old school left in me. I stopped at 17's with 8 inch all around on the biggest dia tires I could fit with the new performance suspension. As for A/C I agree with Jasen go after market. I went factory only because my car was an original a/c car but parts are hard to find and if you have problems it is a night mare to work on off comes the fender. Looking forward to your build.
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Post by BR[] on Aug 2, 2011 18:13:18 GMT -5
any rubbin' goin on in those wheel wells?
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Post by oldsproject on Aug 2, 2011 18:15:36 GMT -5
I considered 18's but couldn't go that far I still have some old school left in me. I stopped at 17's with 8 inch all around on the biggest dia tires I could fit with the new performance suspension. As for A/C I agree with Jasen go after market. I went factory only because my car was an original a/c car but parts are hard to find and if you have problems it is a night mare to work on off comes the fender. Looking forward to your build. Nice clean look with the chrome off and larger tires. Like it!!
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Post by shane on Aug 2, 2011 18:24:03 GMT -5
I am having a heck of a time finding a dipstick & tube, any suggestions? correct fit is all that I am worried about. I have noticed that there are "spacers" between the frame and engine that someone fabbed up to raise the engine up. I am assuming that this is because whomever thought the engine was a 400 and its a 330, and they were trying to raise the headers up somewhat, there has been two sets of headers on the car and both sat way to low underneath the car to be a correct fit, could in theory this be beacuse they were putting 400 headers on a 330? The only place i've seen the tube is brothers automotive as for the dip stick I don't know of anyone remaking them
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Post by bubbasz1 on Aug 2, 2011 18:41:43 GMT -5
I am having a heck of a time finding a dipstick & tube, any suggestions? correct fit is all that I am worried about. I have noticed that there are "spacers" between the frame and engine that someone fabbed up to raise the engine up. I am assuming that this is because whomever thought the engine was a 400 and its a 330, and they were trying to raise the headers up somewhat, there has been two sets of headers on the car and both sat way to low underneath the car to be a correct fit, could in theory this be beacuse they were putting 400 headers on a 330? These are reproduced and sold by Walt, also makes the chambered exhaust for the 442. WaltVallelunga@sbcglobal.net
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Post by realfast65 on Aug 2, 2011 19:49:57 GMT -5
any rubbin' goin on in those wheel wells? Yes but very minimal not really an issue. I did roll the fronts but the rears are untouched. I'm running a 10 inch wide tire on all 4. If I would have went with a 5 inch or 5.5 inch back space would have more than enough space. With stock suspension you can run 8 inch up front with proper back space but the wheel selections are limited unless you go to custom wheels which = $ My suspension setup and alignment settings help my clearances.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Aug 2, 2011 20:17:33 GMT -5
really nice looking cars! I took mine for a ride tonight after replacing the rag joint. The carb needs work, I need to grab a correct radiator hose as the one now is rubbing the PS belt, after looking under the car quite well it looks like it has new shocks, but I really think it sits lower than a stock car. it rides and drives really good but, every once in a while when i hit a bump it sounds and feels like something is botteming out. and the headers sit way way to low, there is about 5-6 inches between the crossmember humps for the exhaust and the actual exhaust, i still think this is due to the 330 vs 400 but I'd like an educated opinion, remember the headers were bought for a 400
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Post by Big Mike on Aug 3, 2011 10:12:12 GMT -5
really nice looking cars! I took mine for a ride tonight after replacing the rag joint. The carb needs work, I need to grab a correct radiator hose as the one now is rubbing the PS belt, after looking under the car quite well it looks like it has new shocks, but I really think it sits lower than a stock car. it rides and drives really good but, every once in a while when i hit a bump it sounds and feels like something is botteming out. and the headers sit way way to low, there is about 5-6 inches between the crossmember humps for the exhaust and the actual exhaust, i still think this is due to the 330 vs 400 but I'd like an educated opinion, remember the headers were bought for a 400 This issue is most likely due to the 330 in your car instead of the 400. Here is a link to a past thread where Bro describes what can be done when swapping motors and motor mounts and frame mounts: ultra-hi-comp.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=general&thread=1062&post=7959Plus depending on the type of headers you have, some are meant to be long tube headers for straight line cars that don't care about clearance. It's hard to tell what you have really. There is also a difference in the geometry of the two blocks, the 400 block is wider which would change the head geometry. That's why the Z manifolds don't fit on small blocks.
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Post by Big Mike on Aug 3, 2011 10:20:49 GMT -5
I am having a heck of a time finding a dipstick & tube, any suggestions? correct fit is all that I am worried about. I have noticed that there are "spacers" between the frame and engine that someone fabbed up to raise the engine up. I am assuming that this is because whomever thought the engine was a 400 and its a 330, and they were trying to raise the headers up somewhat, there has been two sets of headers on the car and both sat way to low underneath the car to be a correct fit, could in theory this be beacuse they were putting 400 headers on a 330? OK, don't want to start a big pissing match with the 65 purists, but.... The Olds engine guru in our local club says there are two (really 3) types of tubes and dip sticks; Big Block and small block — the 3rd type is where the 68 350's had a long and short tube. You can buy the 68-69 400 — 70-76 455 dipstick tube from Fusick's and it will work for our 400's. You also have the option of going to a GM dealer and ordering a new replacement tube and dip stick. The dipstick will look like a modern stick and won't match the originals, but if you don't care about that then you are good to go.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2011 13:41:11 GMT -5
really nice looking cars! I took mine for a ride tonight after replacing the rag joint. The carb needs work, I need to grab a correct radiator hose as the one now is rubbing the PS belt, after looking under the car quite well it looks like it has new shocks, but I really think it sits lower than a stock car. it rides and drives really good but, every once in a while when i hit a bump it sounds and feels like something is botteming out. and the headers sit way way to low, there is about 5-6 inches between the crossmember humps for the exhaust and the actual exhaust, i still think this is due to the 330 vs 400 but I'd like an educated opinion, remember the headers were bought for a 400 When having an intelligent conversation terminology is key, everyone involved must be on the same page. Those with much experience can overlook the misuse of a word or phrase because they know what you mean, but others with little knowledge or experience most often will not know, and misuse a word or phrase in future discussions. Since 57vetteguy has done a self described concourse quality restoration, I`m confident he`ll agree. The difference(for this discussion) between the 330, 400, 425, 455 is dimensional, taller deck height. As the distance from the centerline of the crank increases upward the width of the V increases. Automotive geometry is normally thought of as lines on a plane and there relationship to one another. With that said, the main consideration here is the relationship of the crankshaft in the different blocks, no surprise here, there all located the same. The difference I see is you mentioned "spacers" being installed to raise the front of your engine, this alteration now brings in a geometry change. The change is in the geometery between the output shaft of your transmission, and the pinion of the rear end. The point to where the two imaginary lines intersect has been altered. Now as far as the space between the cross member and the exhaust pipes goes, You`ve got two things going on, the 330 heads are lower than big block heads dimensionally, if you`ve got big block headers on it, stands to reason they would hang lower. Secondly the front of the engine has been raised, changing the rearward rake of the engine/transmission. Anything mounted to the engine will follow this negative rake. The further from the engine, the greater the negative effect will be. My suggestion, get a set of A body v-8 mounts (frame and engine) Fit your accessories from the proper engine location. A good rule of thumb is carb mounting flange on intake should be approx. level. This should give the engine around a 3 to 5 degree negative rake. Can`t help with the bottom out question, too many variables.
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