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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 17, 2009 19:02:35 GMT -5
Well I've been bashed by various members for not working on my poor vert frame, so here are pictures of the beast in one piece(not welded) but in one piece. It is a tight fit, no slop at all. You will notice the frame is up on blocks(set points for taking measurements). The front and rear frame is low about an inch. If you notice the level sitting on the frame it is sitting flat where the center bubble is. There is at least a 1/4 inch or more at the ends of the level. So the frame rails have a bow in them from the center out with the center being high. So how do we fix that without spending lots of money at the frame shop. I have some ideas but figured I'd pass around the information hat and see what I get.   |
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Post by RAM Z on Jun 17, 2009 19:06:06 GMT -5
Harolds.
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Post by tp on Jun 17, 2009 20:50:51 GMT -5
hey bubbaz we don't allow jap bikes on this sight, only H.D. Frame looks nice its about time.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 17, 2009 21:05:20 GMT -5
hey bubbaz we don't allow jap bikes on this sight, only H.D. Frame looks nice its about time. That jap bike is my wifes so I won't tell her you said that. ;D Some things take a while especially when you can't devote large amount of time and money to finish it. Thanks |
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Post by 442scotty on Jun 17, 2009 21:56:28 GMT -5
Is the bow on both sides? Would the weight of the body cause this to level out? Just wondering if it is supposed to be this way to allow for the weight of the body...
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Post by Big Mike on Jun 17, 2009 22:20:54 GMT -5
Is the bow on both sides? Would the weight of the body cause this to level out? Just wondering if it is supposed to be this way to allow for the weight of the body... Bubba, check both sides, it should be the same and it will settle out when the body is on the car. Scotty is right on the money. Vert frames are usually set up this way to give it strength. Ever been driving down the highway and seen an empty flatbed tractor trailer? You will notice an upward bend to the bed, same principal on the vert frame. |
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 18, 2009 5:14:23 GMT -5
Then the height dimensions in the front and the back are useless, right. Once I'm sure my front half is in to the correct length I weld it in and call it a day.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2009 7:07:01 GMT -5
tack it in place where you want it, and then set the body on it to see. i would bet scoot and bm are correct...
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Post by RAM Z on Jun 18, 2009 7:16:23 GMT -5
Scoot and BM? Sounds like a problem I had last night!!
The weight of the front and the rear of the frame hanging free may be causing this. Its probably going to be fine Jeff.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 18, 2009 8:08:25 GMT -5
Well, I've been thinking about this bow since I read the posts this morning. The more I think about it the more I'd have to believe that the bow in the frame would just bow the the body out. There is NO structural integrity to the body>zip>nada>nothing. When I removed the body the door bumpers were not even close to touching which would make sense with the bow in the frame. The front and back half of the frame don't have enough weight to even think about putting in the bow that is present so I think this will take a little bit more investigating.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2009 9:54:35 GMT -5
Hi Jeff,
I checked my two convertibles, one is a 442 and the other a Cutlass. They both have a body on so I measured from the bottom of the frame. Some rise in the middle but not over .040".
I also checked a hardtop frame, without body. The check you want to make is across the rubber bushing body mount pads. I ran a straignt edge across all three pads, front outside, middle, and rear. These need to be all on the same level.
It may be true the frame side may have intentional arc, but the pad points should be level. The good news for me is that I repair my 442 convert frame, I can attach the body mount pads to a temporary straight edge I beam and weld in some intermediate repair pieces.
Alan
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 18, 2009 10:32:34 GMT -5
I agree on the body mounts being on the same plane, I will check those tonight.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 18, 2009 18:50:50 GMT -5
Well, frame is tweaked more on one side than the other, defiantly needs some fine tuning.
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Post by nickthefish on Jun 18, 2009 19:36:42 GMT -5
Someone might know where a convertible frame is.  |
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 18, 2009 20:54:16 GMT -5
Well someone, you might know where one is but would the cost be??
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Post by nickthefish on Jun 18, 2009 21:28:43 GMT -5
I will get the lowdown tomorrow Mr. Bubba and let you know. It would just mean a road trip for me since I won't be working in two weeks.
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Post by popzoldz on Jun 19, 2009 4:57:11 GMT -5
Availability of the vert frames is not an issue but the price may be. I had to find one for my 64 ragtop. North Carolina boonies source for a boxed 64 frame, sandblasted and primered at $2200 a copy. Several available. I can find the details if there is interest, no connection except BTDT.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 19, 2009 5:07:35 GMT -5
I will get the lowdown tomorrow Mr. Bubba and let you know. It would just mean a road trip for me since I won't be working in two weeks. OK |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2009 9:15:18 GMT -5
Jeff,
Based on a hard look at the way these frames are constructed, I think you can repair your frame.
You said the frame is tweaked. Can you identify the impact location for the distress? If yes, work backward to metal work the deformation. If no, verify the frame is square using the measurements from Bro's frame dimension sheet. Then shim the body mount pads to bring all in the proper elevation. With the body on, you may end up making additional shim changes to get the body gaps correct.
I think an 1/8" or less to be manageable with shims. More than an 1/8" is metal work time.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Jun 19, 2009 10:44:44 GMT -5
Alan,
I found the kink yesterday that is doing most of the damage to the layout of the frame. I believe I gave Bro that particular frame chart so I'm all set there. Just need to figure out how to do it.
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