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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 3, 2011 11:53:06 GMT -5
I installed the 2" lowering springs yesterday, 2" my A$$, it dropped the car so much the tires are bottomed out in the fender wells, I am on my 5th call to Summit right now!
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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 2, 2011 8:43:20 GMT -5
wish i would have known that lastweek before i bought springs ugh
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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 1, 2011 22:38:47 GMT -5
I am installing the hotchkis 2" drop springs, new gas adjust shocks, full true leather interior, flaming river column and steering wheel, floor shift and 200R4 good winter project
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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 1, 2011 22:18:52 GMT -5
After I read my posts, a few times I think I come off as a Ford guy, I dont want anyone to think that. I want to further explain. Buying a vehicle to me, and a lot of people is a major step, especially if you dont have money to throw away. The vehicle, and how good it is happens to be a major factor, but how the manufacturer stands behind it is as good or better than the vehicle its self. Below I will explain my earlier comments: I worked for a couple dealers when I was young, ( years ago) I always knew how to get up with regional reps and make things happen.. After my time with the dealerships I went into my own construction thing, but all my friends would call me when they had issues with cars/trucks, etc I called the Toyota regional rep, and corporate on two occasions, 1 being the toyota camary using 4 quarts of oil at 40k miles under warranty, the answer we got was that was an acceptable amount of oil comsumption and if there was no smoke or noise present it was fine, we repeated this complaint 4 times with no resolve, when the botom end let loose at 52K miles even toyota corporate refused to admit fault or a problem. Causing the owner 5700 dollars that he had to borrow to keep his wife transportation. my next toyota issue was a local bought brand new 2007 tundra that the frame broke, 67,000 miles, immaculate truck, the owner lived on a dirt road but it wat hardly put in 4wd, I called again, it was put off and put off, Toyota denied any fault until we got a lawyer involved, then they said they would give 1000.00 extra on trade in which he took. My personal chevrolet truck, never hauled anything in it, stays in the garage, at 31k miles the fiberglass bed cracked, from the tail light about 9 inches up. i called the dealer, to the SOL answer, called the corporate and regional rep same thing SOL. The dealership even told me it was a stress crack due to poor molding, i paid 900 to fix it. Dodge, my fiance has a 2008 caliper, transmission has slipped since 20k miles, ive took it to the shop at the dealer 6 times, no fix, 65k it goes out, i call the corporate rep and regional rep, Nothing we can do my neighbor has a f-250, over loads it like crazy, blows the turbo at 110k miles, he gets no response from dealer, i call regional rep, 1 phone call they fix it for free
my dad, f-250, he over loads it, tranny goes out at 131k miles, i call complain, 1 time ford agrees to pay for all labor if he pays 350.00 for parts
I sold one of our fleet trucks which had been run to death, injector pump and tranny went bad at 106 k miles, I called regional rep for new owner, Ford fixed it all free of cost
My customer had a f-450 hydroseeding truck way way over loaded, tranny went bad and frontend was wore out as it should be carrying a 20k lb hydroseeder around, called the rep, answer: we will fix the front end parts and labor, we will supply parts for tranny if he pays labor.
make your own opinion! I DID
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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 1, 2011 21:13:33 GMT -5
unless someone has a better idea, I think I should just pick up a 455 and build it, the cost alone of a 425 roller cam is insane!
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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 1, 2011 21:10:08 GMT -5
On top of my last ramblings, Toyota has about as much experiance building true full size trucks as I do being a barber. If you want a full size toyota you might as well let me cut your hair! hahahahahaha
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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 1, 2011 20:57:46 GMT -5
I drove this bastard for 5 years while I spent the money I would have on a truck payment on restoring my car. 79 4x4, 4 speed grannie low, 300 six. This thing started in the dead of January at 4:30am every time I asked it to. And it didnt have a choke. This was when I first "restored" it. It got to the point where the bed was flappin in the wind so I got rid of it. But it still ran great when the rubes from PA came to get it. I still see these 73-79 trucks on the road around here. Havent seen a 79 Toyota ever. I know what you mean, mines much newer, 2001, but I bought it with 190k, it was a retired Ferguson Plumbing delivery truck, they never changed the oil, it was beat to death and every mile of its existance was heavy loads. When I bought it, I delivered erosion materials on a 30 ft trailer, I stayed over loaded 15-20k lbs, when we bought delivery trucks i took it home where I started LARGE dry stack wall projects at my house, I mean about 2000 lf ft of walls, I loaded rock, (rock the size of a truck hood) in the bed of it until the rear hitch would hit the ground, then pull a couple of rocks out and drive it to my house, its still running great, its a wonder I never busted the tranny or rear springs! As a matter of fact I might just over load it tomorrow and take a pic.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Nov 1, 2011 20:46:19 GMT -5
I will apologize ahead of time, but I have to put my two cents worth in. My good friend has a local machine shop that specializes in work that no other machine shop will take. To date this year he has repaired 7 late model toyota frames from rust issues (these were all bought brand new in the Carolinas, we dont salt the roads here but about twice a year) 1) my neighbor just had his second motor put in his 2009 Camary with 63,000 miles, Toyota refused to warrenty the motor when it had 45,000 miles and was using 4 quarts between oil changes, he paid out of pocket. 2) one of those frame repairs was reimbursed by Toyota where they admited frame issues 3) A coworker just had his 2006 Tundra partially bought back due to a broken frame 4) My 2007 avalon at 77,000 miles had a alt replaced, the entire rack, and was knocking when I dumped it 5) My mechanic friend bought a new tundra (2010) and cannot get better than 14MPG, he has done everything to increase fuel mileage, the dealership will not even speak to him claiming it is common to getthat kind of MPG 6) We just installed a plate metal flatbed on a 2009 tundra due to a guy loading a pallet of ceramic tile in his bed and the pallet busting, he claimed that the pallet was about 3 foot over the bed level when it busted, it buckled the entire bed and bed sides (beer can aluminum) 8) I WILL HAVE TO WRITE THIS IN ALL CAPS BECAUSE THIS IS A TRUE TESTAMENT TO TRUCKS! I RUN A CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS SUPPLY BUSINESS, (storm drainage, hydroseeding, pipe, etc) THE MAJORITY OF MY CUSTOMERS USE FORD TRUCKS, FROM F-150'S TO F-550'S, I HAVE HAD 6-8 CUSTOMERS BUY TUNDRAS OVER THE PAST 3 YEARS FOR THEIR FLEETS. I ALWAYS ASK HOW THEIR TRUCKS ARE DOING, AND NONE OF THEM WILL BUY ANOTHER TOYOTA TUNDRA FOR THEIR FLEET DUE TO FUEL COSTS, CONSTANT REPAIRS AND COST OF REPAIRS, AND THE TUNDRAS ARE NO WHERE AS DURABLE AS THE CHEVY OR FORD. 9)Ok sorry about the caps, toyota claims more parts are made in america, which might or might not be true, but the proceeds still support Japan which has put so many american workers out of work, Japan has been responsible for the end of OLDSMOBILE, Pontiac, etc etc. 10) look at the tremendous increase in American automaker quality and decrease in Toyota/Nissan quality over the past several years!
I personally in the past ten years have owned: Toyota avalon, the story is above, junk junk
several ford mustangs, with no mechanical issues what so ever even on nitrous
dodge caliper lemon
2004 ford expedition 371,ooo miles when sold still being driven, I changed the oil between 10-12k miles, I had to re glue the drivers side window into the track once, no mechanical work what so ever besides brakes
2001 Ford F-250, still own it 277,000 miles, same thing, i change the oil about 10k, the cd played quit working at 200K so I replaced it, brakes, and nothing else
2002 Chevy silverado, 61,000 current miles. replaced brakes and heater module. it gets babied, synthetic every 3k miles
Cadillac CTS-V rear end (hmmm my fault hahaha) brakes sold at 71k miles
Toyota 4-runner GRRRR, 1500 dollar starter, rear end, alternator, several top end gaskets, window switches, transfer case relay, sold at 110k miles
Jeep Grand Cherokee, front end, steering rack, alternator. sold at 145k miles,
I am sure I am forgetting a few but just of it all is, the best vehicles I have ever owned are Ford's, the worst are Toyota's. I have yet to hear of anyone's ford truck frame breaking, there is a very valid reason why you see Ford trucks being used by large construction companies, in fleet service, for goverment use, power companies, cable companies, etc etc. If your desire is to hand Japan your hard earned money to get a problematic, weak frame, tin bodied gas guzzler, well my friend buy a Tundra! If you so choose that route, get the biggest fuel tank possible, dont drop anything in the bed, and undercoat every part of the frame double, be prepared for Toyota to tell you 2-3 quarts of oil consumption is normal and is no reason to worry when your nearing the end of warrenty, also be prepared for transmission issues. I have another good friend that was the lead tech at the largest Toyota dealer in the area, he left last year to go out on his own, the local dealer now sends work to him dailey, he does all my rear end work and routine stuff, he told me last month that he had never seen as much recall/repair and common issues out of Toyota as he has seen in the past three years and it keeps getting worse. Google 2011 Tundra issues and you will see pages of forums and complaints, even the die hard toyota guys have the opinion of "well 2012,2013, has got to get better!
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 29, 2011 23:15:47 GMT -5
I am going to go ahead and order a 200R4, If you have seen any of my other threads you will know my car is a 330 and I am working on building a 425, I want to get my interior, suspension and tranny done before i swap motors, a big thing is that i am changing from a column shift to floor shift having custom leather and center console done so i need to do the floor shift while we are doing interior. Back to the tech question, this isnt a drag car, i want a GOOD 200R4, I dont know of any locals that are good with a 200 tranny, If I order one online who would you suggest?
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 29, 2011 23:07:46 GMT -5
I sent Chadman a message but no response, I would greatly appreciate any build info/advice. I just ordered new suspension, carpet, flaming river column, steering wheel, having true leather interior done, some carbon fiber to fab a new dash cluster, etc, The motor is on stand by until i can get a better plan together, please help me with a build other than a 15K option
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 21, 2011 21:50:58 GMT -5
I have not engaged in much of the drama on this forum, but I will now. I would like to keep my car all Olds but the Olds vendors are killing me. to build a decent motor with a serpentine set up 15k ? IfI were made of money (which Im not) thats crazy. I can buy a nice finished car for that. I dont blame him a bit
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 21, 2011 21:32:37 GMT -5
After all of my "research" it seems that Mondello, BTR, Rocket,Olds perfomrnace, and a few others told me exactly the opposite as far as a build. DAMN I'm Confused! Mainly they all want 3K for a rotating assy which I think is insane! I just cant see spending 14K for a 500 hp Big block, when i just build a 473 hp Ford small block for 6700? And that was at the rear tires, but again I had the knowledge rather that just buying parts from a supplier. Right now I am going to do the 200r4 conversion, custom true leather interior, floor shift conversion, steering column etc
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 14, 2011 22:41:06 GMT -5
on top of my last post, I would like to add, that again my past is in Ford motors. I always found it as good if not better to build my own bottom ends/stroker bottom ends using good parts piecing it together rather than buying a rotating assy from one vendor (usually the same parts with tons of markup) So when an olds vendor says "you need to buy my 3k rotating assy I get turned off real quick"
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 14, 2011 22:25:49 GMT -5
I am hearing from some olds guru's that my idea of running the 455 crank, aftermarket 425 rods 6.99 and pontiac pistons isnt the greatest idea. I have searched all over real olds performance and havent found much info on a 425 build besides close to stock or all out drag race, so here goes my question/idea: ive got a 45 deg cam bank block, no crank what so ever, i dont mind buying custom rods/pistons although if I could save money using a BBC rod or piston that isnt totally custom i would rather do that. I really want a streetable 550 hp+ engine with air, and i will be running a 200r4 tranny. I dont mind having a set of eldebrocks ported, CNC'd etc. I dont know if i should go with the rocket racing heads? The thing is I want to build it one correctly. Obviously I want to do it right but not waste money. I have talked to all of the BIG OLDS vendors and get a totally different answer from them all, such as dump the 425 block, ohh build it like a 455, stroke it, go all roller, go mechanical, use stock eldebrocks, to get that hp you need high flowing ported aluminum heads, etc etc etc HELP i am ready to buy parts and get this going but I am toooo confused to start
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 4, 2011 20:55:29 GMT -5
OPGI Window felts, good lord how hard can it be. OPGI tells me that they have been discontinued due to the manufacturer having issues. I called the manufacturer and they said absolutly not, they knew both types for 65, they had in depth info about size, the chrome bead, and even gave me a part number for my car which didnt have the top door chrome trim, when I asked them where I would buy then they told me OPGI just ordered several sets and they arrived at OPGI the previous week. I called OPGI back and even gave them the part number. I was told they didnt recognize the part number. I called the manufacturer back again told them what OPGI told me, they were amazed and gave me OPGI's sku number, order number and product discreption. I salled OPGI again, gave them all the info and even the date they recieved the parts, again umm ugh well umm we pulled all of those off the shelf due to boxing issues. I asked them if they could just have them drop shipped from the manufacturer, then i get told again those are discontinued. I call the manufacturer AGAIN, beg for them to sell me direct, they wont, they told me to call OPGI and tell them I need this part number shipped direct and they would send them free frt right to me. I call OPGI AGAIN GRRRRRRRRRRR and again we dont know what you are being told but those arent being produced right now due to molding issues HELL I GIVE UP
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 4, 2011 20:25:51 GMT -5
Shane thanks for the tip, those W-Z's with 2.5 inch outlets look nice. I measured mine 2.25 inches.That's alot more breathing room in my book especially on the exhaust side. Hey, just my observation, and off the thread subject, I really like the stock steel painted wheel, dog dish cap look. I think it would look great to leave the fronts as they are and have the rears banded to about 9" wide!
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 4, 2011 19:09:39 GMT -5
Are you sure that you cant get a hyd roller for a 425 45 degree block? I was talkint to Bill at BTR yesterday, (in which we were talking about cam bank angle) he clearly knew I had a 45 degree block and he was advising me to make sure I went with the hyd roller set up? Unless I am missing something the 455 pontiac piston isnt that extreme, a 30 over piston is 4.18, in theory I assume the longer rod length of the 425 with the 455 crank should make the CI around 466-473. Topped off with a set of CNC'd Edel's should make a nice powerplant or my frankenstein might just blow the heck up who knows, I am still doing my primitive math
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 4, 2011 12:29:47 GMT -5
I did a little research, but again I am new to Olds builds. I was wondering about a combo I had run across a few times: 425 A block (yes the 45 degree) 455 N crank 425 rods 455 Pontiac pistons has anyone done this? I asked our resident Olds guru here for our club and this is what he gave me: I've heard of this before. You need to be careful with the Pontiac pistons as I've seen different published numbers for compression height. If you use the Speed Pro forged Pontiac 455 pistons with the 1.497" compression height and the 7.00" 425 rods, you end up with 0.022" taller piston deck height relative to the stock 455 pistons and rods. This may work, it depends on exactly how much the block has been cut previously. At worst you may need to skim cut the piston decks to get the right height. Using the stock 455 stroke of 4.250", you get a 473 cu in motor. Of course you're looking at custom balancing, but that's no big deal.Hope that helps, That does, any input helps. The 425 block is completly stock and has not been cut. I just wonder if that is a good combo to run with. It seems like a 473 cu inch motor using a crank and rods I can pick up for next to nothing would be the way to go vs buying a 2500-3000 dollar assembly???
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 4, 2011 11:10:41 GMT -5
Thank you!
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 4, 2011 11:09:16 GMT -5
I think I saw that car at the Charlotte Motor Speedway car show a few weeks ago! Nice looking car!
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