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Post by jims442 on Feb 5, 2012 8:51:32 GMT -5
there was a guy on ebay that had one kind of pricey i thought around 300 i'd post listing but don't know how it was still there today 2-5
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Post by real57vetteguy on Feb 8, 2012 9:27:41 GMT -5
I've decided to run a new 66 dash pad and find a glove box door. My Disc brake conversion, upper and lower A arms, brake lines, and a few other misc parts should be in this week so back to work on the frame. In the mean time I been trying my hand at brewing beer at home, and working on painting misc parts. I think right now I have about 30 hours in smoothing one fender well, I think it will be ready for paint today. I am going to start on the new dash panel we built as far as finish work also. On a side note, Does anyone have an opinion on wiring all the new auto meter guages? Is there a wirink kit for our cars I can buy or should I just make a harness?
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Post by realfast65 on Feb 8, 2012 13:21:18 GMT -5
What control arms are you going with up front? Did you resolve your inner fender tire clearance issues?
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Post by rickman on Feb 8, 2012 13:32:35 GMT -5
Most of the wiring companies will make a standard harness, and add or subtract as necessary. Haven't heard anything bad about any of them, other than time consuming. IMO, best insurance for the price - I've seen what 47+ yr old wiring can do!
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Post by real57vetteguy on Feb 8, 2012 13:46:09 GMT -5
What control arms are you going with up front? Did you resolve your inner fender tire clearance issues? I am using a Hotchkis tubular lower that The Robski so kindly hooked me up with, and a set of SPC adjustable Uppers that I just ordered. with QA1 shocks all around. With that being said, when I had me clearance issues it was with the 2" lowering springs and the stock upper A arms had NOT been shimmed so at that point the top of the wheels/tires should have been leaning outwards somewhat. My tires rubbed slightly when i was turning and hitting a bump at the same time. The only place there was any rubbing was a 2 inch section against the lip of the fender. I am hoping that the adjustable uppers will give me enough negative camber to correct the situation, If not I will trim the fender lip, and if that isnt enough (which it should be more than enough) I will change tire size. Does it sound like I am on the right track?
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Post by realfast65 on Feb 8, 2012 15:08:42 GMT -5
The SPC uppers should greatly improve it if set at the recomended setting that SC&C provides with the arms. It will move the tire inboard at the top and back. Mine use to bottom out in the outer portion of the inner fender well when I went over a dip or big bump. It was so severe that it acted like a brake locking up the tire and would try to send the car in the wrong lane. This was with 2 inch drop spindles and stock suspension.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Feb 9, 2012 10:02:52 GMT -5
The SPC uppers should greatly improve it if set at the recomended setting that SC&C provides with the arms. It will move the tire inboard at the top and back. Mine use to bottom out in the outer portion of the inner fender well when I went over a dip or big bump. It was so severe that it acted like a brake locking up the tire and would try to send the car in the wrong lane. This was with 2 inch drop spindles and stock suspension. Thanks for the information! It looks like christmas morning on my front deck. I am pretty excited to get all those box's to the garage and see whats in store for the weekend!
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Post by BR[] on Feb 9, 2012 18:24:09 GMT -5
It looks like the Mother Aliens head.....................
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Post by RAM Z on Feb 9, 2012 18:39:38 GMT -5
It looks like the Mother Aliens head.....................
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2012 20:56:02 GMT -5
What company did "THAT" come from
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Post by real57vetteguy on Feb 9, 2012 21:08:18 GMT -5
What company did "THAT" come from "The right stuff"
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Post by RAM Z on Feb 9, 2012 21:26:31 GMT -5
Its the front wheel, side to side line. has some shipping bends in it but appears to be too long on the drivers side.
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Post by real57vetteguy on Feb 9, 2012 21:58:08 GMT -5
great pictures, do you have any more pictures that show the brake line routing?
thank you
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Post by mongoose on Feb 10, 2012 6:43:01 GMT -5
Interesting.... the ones I got from Inline Tube last year didn't route anything like that... mine ran along the back side of the sub-frame.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2012 8:18:52 GMT -5
Cutlass and 442 were run differently
Cutlass was run behind the cross frame. But looking at the pics, and my mind can`t quite wrap around the upside down, left to right pic of it, looks like a few mis-bends, some distortion, don`t know if a little massage is going to work here. But like I said, I can turn my screen, but it`s hard to flip it over !
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2012 8:35:11 GMT -5
I just got a complete set from, Right Stuff. Sent it all back, wasn't close to what I had. Mine too is run across the back of the cross member. Plus the one they sent for the front to rear had some straight places that were too short between bends. I must ad though, they were VERY NICE and took everything back no hassle.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2012 9:43:27 GMT -5
Mark with the talent you have buy a roll of EZ-Bend from brake quip and bend your own. Also you may have trouble with the little brackets that hold the soft line to the hard lines (in the front if they are the original) I used the ones from 68 on up that had front disc brakes.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2012 10:07:40 GMT -5
Cutlass and 442 were run differently Cutlass was run behind the cross frame. But looking at the pics, and my mind can`t quite wrap around the upside down, left to right pic of it, looks like a few mis-bends, some distortion, don`t know if a little massage is going to work here. But like I said, I can turn my screen, but it`s hard to flip it over !
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2012 10:13:39 GMT -5
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Post by real57vetteguy on Feb 10, 2012 11:49:45 GMT -5
I'll get back down in the garage and do some bending today, that kit I've got looks like a week old plate of spaghetti
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