Xtremejr
Member
Hold my beer and watch this shit.
Posts: 493
|
Post by Xtremejr on Sept 11, 2014 17:08:06 GMT -5
So a week or so ago I had dropped my block off to get stripped and bored at the machine shop and today they called and said that the block has 3 cracks in it. I never had any leaking issues or any symptoms of a cracked block. Is this something I should worry about or press on with the rebuild (block is 65 B block 389298).  |
|
|
|
Post by BR[] on Sept 11, 2014 21:42:03 GMT -5
I hate to say this, but........... are you truly sure it was YOUR block that was cracked or maybe it was one of their buds. I've seen that happen or oops somehow your block got scrapped.
I've made it a habit to ALWAYS stamp my parts with a unique stamp, so there is no chance of a swap. I had a stamp that was the number 18 with a circle around it. Some how I lost the damn thing.
|
|
|
|
Post by mongoose on Sept 12, 2014 4:55:34 GMT -5
You should at least go take a look at it and see the cracks.
|
|
Xtremejr
Member
Hold my beer and watch this shit.
Posts: 493
|
Post by Xtremejr on Sept 12, 2014 17:08:38 GMT -5
The cracks are on cylinder 6 at the top of the blocks water jackets. and one tiny crack on a freeze plug hole, keep in mind I never had any leaks in these areas. The machine shop owner said if it wasn't a numbers matching car he would replace the block, but since it is matching he recommends keeping the block. ? I have the weekend to think it over, any thoughts? |
|
|
|
Post by mongoose on Sept 12, 2014 17:16:34 GMT -5
Wonder if sleeving that cylinder would eliminate risks of the crack causing future issues of the cracks potentially worsening? I'd be very apprehensive of spending the money to rebuild it with cracks in the block, unless it was going to be nothing but a show piece that you never drove. If it were me, I'd delay the build as I did what I could to find a replacement block suitable for numbers matching (appropriate date codes). Or do the build with a different block so that you can drive it, and then take whatever time needed to eventually find a replacement with "the right" date codes. Guess it just depends how important it being numbers matching is to you.
|
|
|
|
Post by RAM Z on Sept 12, 2014 19:24:08 GMT -5
Nothing on the block is matching. No numbers or code that says it came in your car. The date code is the only thing that ties the block to a certain time period. Find a date coded block to use instead.
|
|
|
|
Post by boba65442 on Sept 12, 2014 21:25:56 GMT -5
If the cracks are small it can be fixed and it sounds like the machine shop can advise best. If he says it can be fixed and the car is really nice and stock it deserves some thought. But you are going to put time, effort and money to a rebuild an engine at considerable cost that has been repaired and there is no guarntee it won't fail under heat, load and pressure.
I agree with RAM Z, find the correct date coded B block and rebuild a solid block. These B blocks are around now and then and not real expensive. I have two spare blocks , one with a Julian date code of 7 and the other with a date code of 120. There is one for sale now on Craigs list in PA, not sure of the date code but the guy advertized it for $500 or best offer minus the crank.
I have a friend in Mass who recently had the same issue, he found another short block for $800, used his correct A heads with the V ID number, restored the car and just sold it for $27K.
Good luck with your decision.
|
|
|
|
Post by joepadavano on Sept 13, 2014 16:31:42 GMT -5
I hate to say this, but........... are you truly sure it was YOUR block that was cracked or maybe it was one of their buds. I've seen that happen or oops somehow your block got scrapped. If we were talking about a Chevy motor, I might be worried about this. How many machine shops today will have more than one B-block Olds motor in house at a time? They'd be lucky to have one per decade. |
|
Xtremejr
Member
Hold my beer and watch this shit.
Posts: 493
|
Post by Xtremejr on Sept 13, 2014 16:35:09 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2014 18:16:48 GMT -5
I hate to say this, but........... are you truly sure it was YOUR block that was cracked or maybe it was one of their buds. I've seen that happen or oops somehow your block got scrapped. If we were talking about a Chevy motor, I might be worried about this. How many machine shops today will have more than one B-block Olds motor in house at a time? They'd be lucky to have one per decade. Ive seen this happen before, not specifically a "B" block olds. I`ve seen it with blocks, cranks, transmissions. Was fairly common, "a guy knew a guy that knew a guy, that needed whatever.The block you brought in could be 3 states over !! Hell, I sent my laptop in around a year ago for a service check before the service agreement was up, received a different laptop ! This stuff happens all the time, with anything of value, the ol` switcheroooo. Not EVERYONE is honest like we all are |
|
Xtremejr
Member
Hold my beer and watch this shit.
Posts: 493
|
Post by Xtremejr on Sept 13, 2014 19:07:45 GMT -5
I did stamp all my parts before they left my garage and it is my block. This isn't the first time i have sent parts to the machine shop however I do believe I got burned once or twice on other parts non 65 442 related before, Thats why I stamped this block. Its kinda a gut wrenching feeling when they call and say your block is cracked and mention what do you want to do with it. Im still not convinced my block is junk due to how small these cracks are and never having leaking issues in those areas, Maybe some higher end leak stop would also help. IDK?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2014 21:04:30 GMT -5
I, like mongoose, thought at first you were talking cylinder wall crack.
If your considering anything other than stitching, I`d check around your area see if anyone uses loctite vacuum. Could try a good ceramic. I`ve used epoxy and ceramic several times with good results. Thing with epoxy you`ve got to open the crack up some and get some pretty runny stuff to get penetration, and the ability to rotate the block to keep the sealer where you want it. I don`t mean open the ENTIRE crack, just V it out some, super clean the crack regardless what you use. Acid bath is best followed by alchol wash and plenty of filtered air.
Don`t let anyone talk you in to sodium silicate
What ya got to lose, time and money is all
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2014 21:46:32 GMT -5
Couple other things, you mentioned you never had issues with leaking in these areas. Probably didn`t, but now that your block has been cleaned and all the scale removed you probably will !! Any crack before repair needs a relief hole.
And no, I didn`t forget pins, it`s just that none of those cracks are in spots where pins would work out very well
|
|
|
|
Post by stan65cutlass on Sept 14, 2014 9:44:14 GMT -5
wow, that cam and lifters are a mess, does go to show how far out of adjustment your valves can be and still run though. think about that next time you set valves with a feeler gauge.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2014 10:13:16 GMT -5
wow, that cam and lifters are a mess, does go to show how far out of adjustment your valves can be and still run though. think about that next time you set valves with a feeler gauge. If your valve train requires specific clearance, you best use, and be knowledgeable in the use of clearance tools. I'm just taking a stab in the dark here, but I'm guessing the above pictured lifters ran zero lash with a preload. Another guess, the trashed lifters/lobes had little to nothing to do with this engines ability to still run Just sayin |
|
Xtremejr
Member
Hold my beer and watch this shit.
Posts: 493
|
Post by Xtremejr on Sept 14, 2014 18:19:08 GMT -5
I was throwing the idea around at putting some jb weld on the cracks in the water jackets???. This isn't something I would normally do but I'm on an extremely tight wife budget for my motor and have already went over it by 2grand. What do you guys think?
|
|
|
|
Post by 64b09 on Sept 14, 2014 22:28:26 GMT -5
I personally wouldn't do that. You never know if it would come loose and plug up something in the cooling system, and I wouldn't want to rely on it standing up to the heat and stress of the engine. I'd find another block somewhere if it were me. If I had an extra 400 block I'd hook you up, but I only have some 330's.
|
|
|
|
Post by boba65442 on Sept 15, 2014 6:48:58 GMT -5
I recently bought a good B block for $500 and had it rebuilt. It's still at the machine shop waiting for me to pick it up. As I mentioned there is a B block in PA with the asking price of $500. Here's the link to the Craigs list ad if you want to take a look. lancaster.craigslist.org/pts/4647590872.html |
|
![BR[] Avatar](http://aliquippaoutlaws.homestead.com/Bro442_ANIM_150.gif)
[/URL
[/URL
[/URL
