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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 4, 2011 20:25:51 GMT -5
Shane thanks for the tip, those W-Z's with 2.5 inch outlets look nice. I measured mine 2.25 inches.That's alot more breathing room in my book especially on the exhaust side. Hey, just my observation, and off the thread subject, I really like the stock steel painted wheel, dog dish cap look. I think it would look great to leave the fronts as they are and have the rears banded to about 9" wide!
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Post by chadman on Oct 5, 2011 5:29:25 GMT -5
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Post by shane on Oct 5, 2011 19:51:15 GMT -5
Boy,lots of good info in a short time! Nice! Actually,my first 65 DID come with a 425 in it! (The 400 had a big hole in the side,easy access to internal parts) Shane-I can send you some of my meds,I keep a big jar in the truck just in case...from what I read in the papers,last time I ran out didn't end so good! I always liked the 425,I think even over the 455 I had in that car.It just seemed to have more balls.Glad to see a buildup on one here. ---bil I don't need the meds I was just thinking of BRO. My 2nd car when i was 17 was 68 cutlass with a 455 under the hood. worked as dish washer at local mom and pops restaurant when it was time for me to leave work the boss/owner said I had to stay and work a couple of extra hours I had politely declined the offer he told me it wasn't option. I tried to explain to him I had tickets to a concert (Metallica) He didn't care . well the good guy I am I stayed worked the next 2 hours figured when i left work if hauled a$$ I could still make the concert (and I did) . When i left work I left two solid strips of rubber behind me. The next day when I showed back up for work I was informed I need to go get the mop bucket and mop the parking lot until the rubber was gone. I went and filled the mop bucket with hot soapy water , rolled it out to the parking lot, hopped in my car and held a smokey burnout contest with my self all the way out of the parking lot ,. There was so much smoke you couldn't even see the restaurant any more. I never went back again. I sold the cutlass back in 99 still wish I had it. Its sitting in a barn In Amherst thats where its been since i sold it to him.
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Post by stan65cutlass on Oct 5, 2011 21:02:22 GMT -5
nice !
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2011 10:41:50 GMT -5
Let me clarify, there are 45 degree hyd. rollers that can be made. Let me get a holds of Cutlass EFI and ask him why he does not recommend them on a 45 degree block. I love the stealth look with the dog dish hubcaps too and I will have Wheel Smith or someone build me a few larger rear rims.
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Post by chadman on Oct 6, 2011 15:40:55 GMT -5
Let me clarify, there are 45 degree hyd. rollers that can be made. Let me get a holds of Cutlass EFI and ask him why he does not recommend them on a 45 degree block. Because Erson doesn't make them and that's what he sells.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2011 10:48:26 GMT -5
Let me clarify, there are 45 degree hyd. rollers that can be made. Let me get a holds of Cutlass EFI and ask him why he does not recommend them on a 45 degree block. Because Erson doesn't make them and that's what he sells. Just looking to get this subject back on top. I`m not an advocate of a roller street set up for several reasons, but interested in the reason for singling out the 45 degree block.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2011 12:59:36 GMT -5
296cfm@.600 is pretty nice on the intake, but where these really shine is on the exhaust side... 214cfm@.600. those numbers are nice. my ported c's flow something like 268cfm/185cfm@.600 and i have a lot of time into them. thats about a 10% increase in flow over mine. very nice* in its simplest form, all your engine is, is an air pump (although, most of us think of it as more than that haha). the more air you move through it, the more power you make.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2011 17:55:21 GMT -5
POSTCAR, that said for what I want out of my build a good hydraulic flat tappet is what I am going to use. I am not going to spend the $$$$ on a roller.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2011 18:02:17 GMT -5
This will stir it up....Here is the response from CutlassEFI regarding the cam bank "The cores are made for 39 degree bank angles. So if you have to grind them for a 45 then you're obviously going to have to grind more off one side than the other. We're not sure the hardness runs deep enough and no one wants to waste a $275.00 core to find out. Simple as that". So here we go....
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2011 18:12:02 GMT -5
I like that SHANE, OKAY no BS TRUE story-the Starfire manager's boss came to town and he mentioned to him that I washed and faxed his car for free if I could drive around in it. So the big boss asked me if I could wash and wax his car on Saturday, I said, could I bring it back Sunday am since your staying down the street at the hotel. He said okay Saturday night -YES Great Lakes Drag Way Union Grove Wisconsin! The car New 69 JUDGE....Green with black interior ;D
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2011 15:11:01 GMT -5
This will stir it up....Here is the response from CutlassEFI regarding the cam bank "The cores are made for 39 degree bank angles. So if you have to grind them for a 45 then you're obviously going to have to grind more off one side than the other. We're not sure the hardness runs deep enough and no one wants to waste a $275.00 core to find out. Simple as that". So here we go.... Oct 6, 2011, 10:41am, therobski wrote: Let me clarify, there are 45 degree hyd. rollers that can be made. Let me get a holds of Cutlass EFI and ask him why he does not recommend them on a 45 degree block. Because Erson doesn't make them and that's what he sells. There`s nothing to stir up, cutlassefi and chadman are both right, Erson doesn`t have the heat treat properties to swing a 39 blank to a 45. If you really think you need the roller cam, they can be had. But for 99% street use, other than being able to sit in McDonalds parking lot on cruise night and being able to add to your list of improvements that you have a "full roller" what the hell is spending all that money going to get you?? If your building a ground pounder get a 39 block and go crazy. To be honest, my question was originally aimed in a different direction. I read right thru the post that cutlassefi (mark?) said you can`t build the 45 block with hydraulic roller CAM, I read it that you can`t build a 45 block with roller rockers?? Just a brain fart on my end. And seeing that for the majority of builds I believe roller rockers are nothing more than bragging points, I was just wondering. SO SEE, NO PISSIN` MATCH HERE
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Post by mongoose on Oct 11, 2011 19:31:34 GMT -5
Hmmmm....
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2011 19:51:36 GMT -5
Like I said, and in a 1/4 mile dragsta vert no less.
I know, that wasn`t nice. But, never said I was
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Post by mongoose on Oct 12, 2011 4:57:07 GMT -5
;D
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2011 11:05:38 GMT -5
mongoose, your a good sport, most would just tell me to go "F" off !! Keep doin what trips your trigger
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 14, 2011 22:25:49 GMT -5
I am hearing from some olds guru's that my idea of running the 455 crank, aftermarket 425 rods 6.99 and pontiac pistons isnt the greatest idea. I have searched all over real olds performance and havent found much info on a 425 build besides close to stock or all out drag race, so here goes my question/idea: ive got a 45 deg cam bank block, no crank what so ever, i dont mind buying custom rods/pistons although if I could save money using a BBC rod or piston that isnt totally custom i would rather do that. I really want a streetable 550 hp+ engine with air, and i will be running a 200r4 tranny. I dont mind having a set of eldebrocks ported, CNC'd etc. I dont know if i should go with the rocket racing heads? The thing is I want to build it one correctly. Obviously I want to do it right but not waste money. I have talked to all of the BIG OLDS vendors and get a totally different answer from them all, such as dump the 425 block, ohh build it like a 455, stroke it, go all roller, go mechanical, use stock eldebrocks, to get that hp you need high flowing ported aluminum heads, etc etc etc HELP i am ready to buy parts and get this going but I am toooo confused to start
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Post by real57vetteguy on Oct 14, 2011 22:41:06 GMT -5
on top of my last post, I would like to add, that again my past is in Ford motors. I always found it as good if not better to build my own bottom ends/stroker bottom ends using good parts piecing it together rather than buying a rotating assy from one vendor (usually the same parts with tons of markup) So when an olds vendor says "you need to buy my 3k rotating assy I get turned off real quick"
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Post by mongoose on Oct 15, 2011 6:17:50 GMT -5
Vetteguy,
I can share with you how I've put together my 455, but performance at this point is only going to be "hear-say", as the car has yet to be back on the road since this latest build. So I don't think you can put much weight on how my combination will do. There is nothing exotic in my build... 455 block, crank and rods, unported Edelbrocks. The combo is "supposed" to produce 540hp. I was looking for something between 500-550hp, which for a convertible street car I figured was plenty. Saving $1000-1500 on porting the heads, if I could already get in this hp range without it just allowed me to spend those dollars on something else.
"Streetable".... that's a word with a lot of personal opinion in it. If you're running power brakes, you have to consider engine vacuum, or plan to run an electric vacuum pump like I'm going to have to do. I was told the cam choice would produce sufficient vacuum to run power brakes, but in application it's not. If I was going to drive my car a lot, meaning putting significant miles on the car, I'd consider a fuel injection system over a carburetor. That would probably be a trade off for hp v. drivability. My car is a local cruiser, and I didn't want to spend the money it would take to run an injection system, at least right now, so the carb route was a no-brainer for me.
Hopefully you will get some more opinions for some of our other members here. We have several with some good experience in higher hp motor buildups.
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Post by oldsproject on Oct 15, 2011 9:56:06 GMT -5
I am hearing from some olds guru's that my idea of running the 455 crank, aftermarket 425 rods 6.99 and pontiac pistons isnt the greatest idea. I have searched all over real olds performance and havent found much info on a 425 build besides close to stock or all out drag race, so here goes my question/idea: ive got a 45 deg cam bank block, no crank what so ever, i dont mind buying custom rods/pistons although if I could save money using a BBC rod or piston that isnt totally custom i would rather do that. I really want a streetable 550 hp+ engine with air, and i will be running a 200r4 tranny. I dont mind having a set of eldebrocks ported, CNC'd etc. I dont know if i should go with the rocket racing heads? The thing is I want to build it one correctly. Obviously I want to do it right but not waste money. I have talked to all of the BIG OLDS vendors and get a totally different answer from them all, such as dump the 425 block, ohh build it like a 455, stroke it, go all roller, go mechanical, use stock eldebrocks, to get that hp you need high flowing ported aluminum heads, etc etc etc HELP i am ready to buy parts and get this going but I am toooo confused to start These are good guidelines from someone that was highly regarded in Olds circles. While its primarily 455's you can apply the math to 425 to some degree. Many will argue differently but not many can argue this mans experiance in getting hp out of olds engines. www.mondellotwister.com/articles.htmlAnd im talking about Joe Mondellos articles, not Mondello as they are on my shit list. To be clear.
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