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Post by dads442 on Dec 19, 2022 16:52:00 GMT -5
OK... need a little help here, I have a 65 holiday 442 and recently removed rear end from the car for a look see and to replace whatever may need attention...car has been off the road since 1997...at least that is the last time it was registered...it is a 4 spd. car. I believe the rear gear is a 3:55 and is a posi., it still has the anti spin tag....anyway it has two converging ribs each side, has a ten bolt cover, the spring plates are the ones that have a large hole and raised lip approx. 3/4 " inch high, axle tube number from rear drivers side is HX 325, casting number on lower rear passenger side below cover is 9799202 with 288 cast just above it...date code I think is CFD or 0FD, also has a large letter "N" cast just above pinion seal ...from what I can tell from the Trans/rear info on this site it could be a 68 to 72 Pontiac rear end...not positive on the rear gear...did the turn the drive shaft to get ten turns of wheel routin, marked tire and fender with tape and same with drive shaft to get half way accurate number anyway if someone can help with the I.D. i'd appreciat it. I am at least the third owner and at some point the car was drag raced...there were approx 4 to 5 inch high steel tube spacers mounted between spring plates and fairly short springs....
thanks ahead of time.....
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Post by jmos4 on Dec 19, 2022 19:13:36 GMT -5
Hi,
Any A-body rear axle will fit your 65 only difference is 64-65, maybe some 66's were narrower than later years and 64-66 had a flat spring mount vs later models 67 thru 72.
If your current axle is a Pontiac with a N on it should mean nodular iron which is a stronger housing vs the one's that came in lower hp cars, Tempest, Lemans. Also depending upon codes etc it maybe worth a bit to someone restoring a GTO of that era.
Regards, Jim
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Post by dads442 on Dec 19, 2022 22:17:23 GMT -5
thanks for the response...it stands to reason that the previous owner would have used a more stout rear axle for racing I suppose although it could be what he/they could get a hold of if the original went south on them...only reason I say that is the car came with a built 455 and A heads from a 400....makes me think they might have destroyed the original 400...who knows...anyway I plan on reusing the axle I currently have just wanted to get as much info as I can so I can get the right parts for it depending on what it needs...last thing I need to do before putting power train back in the car...
thanks again
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 20, 2022 8:50:59 GMT -5
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Post by john442 on Dec 22, 2022 13:23:33 GMT -5
I had a stock from the factory 65 Cutlass 330, 4speed that I blew the rear on. The axles were bigger around than those of muscle cars like the Chevelle. Were all BOP axles made bigger?
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Post by dads442 on Dec 24, 2022 13:28:17 GMT -5
So did some research...found an article on line that covered I.D. of GM rear axles...best I can tell is that I have a 68 to 72, based on the raised spring plates, not flat with bolt hole, "BOP" 8.2 10 bolt rear axle, has the two converging ribs and BOP shaped rear cover, is a Pontiac, has bolt in, Not "C" clip axles, cannot find the numbers mentioned in my first post...H X 325 on axle tube, third member casting of 9799202 with 288 cast above it, clock has either CFD or 0FD?...can anybody add to this???
Next big question is that the driveshaft is the one piece with concentric tubes and rubber isolater...I had one of these on my 65 vert and got rid of it do to vibrations...I'm thinking I would do the same here unless these are repairable??? would I even want to do that or be better off having a new one made...motor is 455 mild street cam, with a 4 speed...
Thanks again and by the way Happy Holidays to everyone
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 25, 2022 10:01:03 GMT -5
The concentric tube driveshaft is AT only. The solid tube is MT. The rubber is molded in place and not really repairable.
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Post by dads442 on Dec 25, 2022 13:26:26 GMT -5
Ok, thanks Joe...I didn't think it would be but thought I would check anyway...wonder how it ended up on this car as it is an original 4 spd. car,interesting, must have been all they could find or they didn't know there was a difference, as mentioned car now has 455 in it, and later rear BOP axle...
So if I take this drive shaft to someone that can make me a new one will it be the correct length? assuming it was correct in the first place...
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 26, 2022 9:11:06 GMT -5
Ok, thanks Joe...I didn't think it would be but thought I would check anyway...wonder how it ended up on this car as it is an original 4 spd. car,interesting, must have been all they could find or they didn't know there was a difference, as mentioned car now has 455 in it, and later rear BOP axle... So if I take this drive shaft to someone that can make me a new one will it be the correct length? assuming it was correct in the first place...
Yes, assuming the rubber hasn't slipped and thus changed the length, an driveshaft shop can match it with a solid tube version. Note that the OEM shaft will have a larger diameter center with necked down ends. Most fabricated replacements will be one diameter for the whole length. This is potentially a problem if the new shaft diameter is smaller than the original. The critical speed (the RPMs at which the shaft will start to deflect and whip, causing vibration) is a function of diameter. You can see from this chart that a 3" driveshaft at the length needed (~56") has a critical speed that is low enough to become a problem.
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Post by dads442 on Dec 28, 2022 13:17:42 GMT -5
OK, I looked on this site and under tech info it has a photo of a driveshaft which says 442 driveshafts were larger, shows 3.5' diameter, so if I use the same length I have currently, (60") center to center, and have a solid tube, 3.5 diameter driveshaft made I should be OK???
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 29, 2022 18:15:02 GMT -5
OK, I looked on this site and under tech info it has a photo of a driveshaft which says 442 driveshafts were larger, shows 3.5' diameter, so if I use the same length I have currently, (60") center to center, and have a solid tube, 3.5 diameter driveshaft made I should be OK???
3.5" will be fine. The problem is, what is the diameter at the yoke fittings that the tube needs to be welded to? Most driveshaft shops don't have the factory style tubes that necked down at the ends. If they are reusing the original yokes, they will likely just run a constant diameter tube. Be sure to ask first.
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Post by dads442 on Feb 8, 2023 12:08:42 GMT -5
Ok think I have a fix on the axle...Pontiac(BOP) 8.2 casting number 9799202 70-72 GTO.  has the raised spring perches as mentioned before...next issue is what springs to order for the rear....if I understand Eaton correctly the rear springs for the 65 cutlass 442 Holiday Coupe are pig tailed on one end and open on the other...originally the pig tailed end would have been bolted to the axle flat spring perch via a spring clamp and bolt, open end fits around the upper spring perch against the stop...since my axle has the raised lower spring perch, Which will fit the pig tail end, can I just order stock height rear springs either standard or heavy duty for the 65? also with the raised lower perch is it simply the weight and suspension travel that holds them in place and no clamp is needed? sorry for the dumb question... the newer rear axle thing is throwing me a curve... thanks,
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