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Post by BR[] on Sept 29, 2008 22:28:24 GMT -5
We've touched on this in the "front sway bar" thread and I think it deserves it own, so here goes.
If you have headers that fit, let us all know.
If you've had to make alterations to get a good fit, tell us in detail what they are. It will be a big help to everyone and save the rest of us countless headaches.
There's nothing worse than spending good money on ceramic coated headers, that claim to fit and then having to flatten or ding them to get a good fit. Yes I'm speaking from experience. Mine drug on the steering shaft and transfered all of the engine vibration thru the steering wheel, so I had to flatten my shiny tube in a very visable area.
Most header manufacturers claim they fit 65-72. I'm sorry but that's bull#$%^. The 68's and up have a three times more room between the frame than we can even dream of.
I have heard that Doug Thorleys are a perfect fit, but I have got that info second hand. If anyone can verify this, please let us know. I do know that they are pricey.
Back in the 60's Tubular Automotive made a three piece header that fit perfectly and went on without raising the engine. One tube ran under the A arm.
Let us all know what works for you.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 30, 2008 6:33:35 GMT -5
Kooks Headers, Now Thingy (Dick) Miller Headers - Moved from Swaybar Thread These are some of the best fitting headers I have ever seen, even with the huge tubes. Mine have 2” primaries and 3-1/2” collectors. They are specifically for 64-67 big block cars. You need a Powermaster 9510 mini starter, which is actually a Pontiac starter. It is clockable on mount, so you will have to flip it upside-down so it will fit on the driver side as Poncho’s were on the other side of the motor. Lots of oil filter clearance. The only place they interfered is the #2 cylinder’s tube touched the block a hair, so I flattened the radius out a bit to get it off the block and ensure I get a good seal at the flange. The one tube was like 1/16” away from hitting the bottom rear tab on the right side lower control arm, so put a little dent in that just in case. Once again, these things fit really nice, and they are tucked up in frame really well. They are up in the x-member humps perfectly. There are a couple downfalls to these headers though. First, they are expensive. The thing is though, they aren’t mass-produced in Mexico. They are hand made in New York and tig welded. The quality is awesome. Second thing is you can only get them in mild steel, so you will have to jet-hot coat them, which adds even more expense. Now, with all of that being said, Kooks doesn’t make them anymore. Dick Miller bought the jigs and the rights to manufacture them from Kooks and I believe they are now available again through him. The 68-72’s are for sure, I am not certain about the 64-67’s. When Kook’s made them you could get 1-7/8” or 2” primaries for the 64-67 big block, but they also made a small block header for these cars, and were the only ones to my knowledge. www.dickmillerracing.com/Kooks_page.htm the ones shown in the photos are for a 68-72… The 2" primaries fit so well, garunteed the 1-7/8" ones go in with no modifications. here are the 64-67's that i have... FYI - Tubular Automotive is still around I believe, as a buddy of mine got headers from him for his rustang from that guy. He has the info and if anybody wants it, I can get it. They are pretty cool headers. Each tube is seperate on his. I am waiting for American Racing Headers to make a 64-67 olds header, as their g-body olds headers are badass.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 30, 2008 18:32:16 GMT -5
Same headers I have, I will no doubt have to do some customizing to mine since I raised my upper and lower exhaust walls an 1/8 inch for flow, should be interesting to see how they fit. how did you fill the floors? or did you mill the exhaust face back 1/8"? i was debating on pushing that face back or not, as the header flanges will need ground so they dont hit the block, and i am not sure about how they will match up with the ports. i haven't had the machine work done yet, but i think i am just going to have him push it back enough to clean up the center divider that is brazed out. i know pushing it back helps, but i did raise the roof some while porting them, and with the x-overs filled and bowl blended and the center dividers brazed out, they should flow good. i think you may need to grind out the header flange some to kind of "port match" it. up and down they match the exhaust ports pretty close.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Sept 30, 2008 20:49:53 GMT -5
I take it by filling the floors your referring to what would be the bottom of the exhaust port. I bought the Dick Miller EXHAUST FLOW PLATES, bellow is the description from Dick Miller Racing. I did all the rest with the x overs and the center divider. I used a set of C heads instead of my original A heads, used 1.625 exhaust valves and 1.72 intake valves, roller rockers, with a semi mild cam with a 108 centerline. I had Pistons made that turned out to be over 100 grams lighter than original stock pistons, so one of these years when I get the car done to put the motor in it should run pretty strong. I was actually thinking about slotting the flange bolts on the headers and doweling the headers in the proper position but haven't made my mind up on that yet.
Exhaust flow plates. These plates will increase the flow on your cast iron production heads by up to 15 CFM by flattening out the floor from the short side radius to the exhaust. The plate bolts between the head and exhaust requiring two exhaust gaskets on each head. Final fitting into the runners will need to be done with hand tools to allow for the closest fit possible in the head being used.
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Post by ericb on Oct 29, 2008 14:45:42 GMT -5
I installed hooker supercomps. They fit fairly well. They clear the steering shaft. The brake lines near the distribution block were fairly close so I clearanced them with my hands a bit. The clutch fork pushrod gets close where it goes through the z-bar, the little post thing may or may not rub one of the primaries, I haven't felt it while clutching. On the passenger side I had to grind a bit of material off the corner of the upper a-arm where the rear bushing gets installed, it shouldn't affect the strength. So, mine installed without denting. I used a slightly shorter oil filter and run a mini starter, but I hear they fit with a stock starter as well.
eric
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Post by BR[] on Oct 29, 2008 20:43:21 GMT -5
Which mini starter are you using?
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Post by Big Mike on Oct 29, 2008 23:47:18 GMT -5
I installed hooker supercomps. They fit fairly well. They clear the steering shaft. The brake lines near the distribution block were fairly close so I clearanced them with my hands a bit. The clutch fork pushrod gets close where it goes through the z-bar, the little post thing may or may not rub one of the primaries, I haven't felt it while clutching. On the passenger side I had to grind a bit of material off the corner of the upper a-arm where the rear bushing gets installed, it shouldn't affect the strength. So, mine installed without denting. I used a slightly shorter oil filter and run a mini starter, but I hear they fit with a stock starter as well. Hey Eric: Glad you made it here. Send in the link to the pic of your fuel injection set up.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2008 9:44:19 GMT -5
I installed hooker supercomps. They fit fairly well. They clear the steering shaft. The brake lines near the distribution block were fairly close so I clearanced them with my hands a bit. The clutch fork pushrod gets close where it goes through the z-bar, the little post thing may or may not rub one of the primaries, I haven't felt it while clutching. On the passenger side I had to grind a bit of material off the corner of the upper a-arm where the rear bushing gets installed, it shouldn't affect the strength. So, mine installed without denting. I used a slightly shorter oil filter and run a mini starter, but I hear they fit with a stock starter as well. Hey Eric: Glad you made it here. Send in the link to the pic of your fuel injection set up. .....and 1 of you give RamZ a break & put yours in for Nov's car of month!!!! Say thanks, "Z"!!! Ralph
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Post by ericb on Oct 31, 2008 10:01:41 GMT -5
I'm running a RobbMc starter.
I'll post some bits about my car after I finish my air cleaner fab.
eric
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Post by BR[] on Nov 3, 2008 7:28:51 GMT -5
"I'm running a RobbMc starter."
Can you give us the model number?
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Post by ericb on Nov 3, 2008 10:14:56 GMT -5
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Post by BR[] on Nov 3, 2008 19:58:02 GMT -5
thanx ericb
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Post by bubbasz1 on Nov 3, 2008 20:40:11 GMT -5
OMG, I wouldn't have done that Ericb, he's got to have one of those laying around his garage that he either forgot about or couldn't figure out how to put it on. Oh well, Glenn's motto is if I have only one I should have at least two more will come into play. I bet that starter is probably already in a UPS truck now on its way to PA! Wait Glenn, look behind the wall of neatly packed parts on the shelf, I see the Robmc starter hiding from you, I swear. FYI, Hi Glenn how the hell are you??
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2009 14:18:43 GMT -5
BACK IN 'the day' MICKEY THOMPSON HEADERS FIT WITH NO PROBLEMS. DOUBT IF THEY ARE AVAILABLE NOW.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 12:14:37 GMT -5
When I restored my ride I was deturmined to get headers that fit. I tried 5 different manufacturers and sent the first 4 back because I did not like the fit. The moment I took the Doug Thorleys out of the box I was impressed with the quality, they are heavy dammed duty. AND they actually fit the car. The large size oil filter cleared well, but I did have to get a mini starter. I got it from Mondello and paid too much for it but it was the only source I had for it at the time (11 years ago). I had to put a small dent in the tube next to the steering colum for clearance as well but these were still the best fitting headers I could get my hands on at the time. I got them Jet Hot coated, used Torque Tech taper down collectors and mandrel bend lead and tail pipes. The system worked so well the paint did not even burn off of my heads at the exhaust ports for over a year-- till I went to the Woodward Cruise and got it .....very good and hot.
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Post by RAM Z on Apr 5, 2009 15:22:07 GMT -5
One thing us locals do on Dream Cruise Saturday is stay the hell off Woodward. I get there early and park it. The traffic is a nightmare.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 5, 2009 16:12:57 GMT -5
I don't know, me thinks I'm going to do something different this year, last year was a boring.
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Post by BR[] on Apr 5, 2009 17:12:39 GMT -5
I'm tired of this off topic chatter in this HEADER post. Keep it up and I'll have to bounce you both.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 5, 2009 19:41:25 GMT -5
I'm tired of this off topic chatter in this HEADER post. Keep it up and I'll have to bounce you both. I AM shaking in my shoe's, Oh woe is me, how's that Glenny, in other words start booting.
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