Xtremejr
Member
Hold my beer and watch this shit.
Posts: 493
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Post by Xtremejr on Sept 3, 2014 18:06:31 GMT -5
Is the harmonic balancer bolt reverse thread? If not any tricks on removing it. My engine is on an engine stand, so even if I pound on the breaker bar with a hammer it just spins the engine around. Also my engine is pretty much torn down to the block.
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Post by BR[] on Sept 3, 2014 19:33:41 GMT -5
Lock the flywheel or put a couple old bolts in the crank and put a bar between them to lock the rotation. CCW (standard) Squirt it down repeatedly with B'laster or what ever you like, for a day or two..... Then use a long breaker bar. I use a 3/4" or 1" drive impact gun to make it easy.
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Post by joepadavano on Sept 6, 2014 17:40:42 GMT -5
Keep in mind that the bolt is torqued to 160 ft-lbs. I made a simple tool years ago to make this very easy. Just take an old crank pulley and weld a bar to it as a handle. Install this tool in place of the real pulley and you have a handle to prevent the motor from turning over when you loosen AND tighten the bolt. An impact wrench works fine for removing the bolt (my 1/2" IR impact has no problem), but you still need something to hold the crank when you torque the bolt after installing the balancer.
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Post by warhead on Sept 6, 2014 20:52:01 GMT -5
Trick...Using a GOOD strong 1/2 inch impact, TIGHTEN FIRST, then loosen it.
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Post by mongoose on Sept 7, 2014 6:13:23 GMT -5
I made a simple tool years ago to make this very easy. Just take an old crank pulley and weld a bar to it as a handle. And if you don't have access to welding equipment, I've used two hardened bolts, screwed them into two holes in the same side of the balancer, wedge some type of pry bar diagonal between the two bolts (direction depends on which way you're needing to turn the bolt), and that holds it in place. You may or may not need two people for that job.
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Xtremejr
Member
Hold my beer and watch this shit.
Posts: 493
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Post by Xtremejr on Sept 7, 2014 13:17:22 GMT -5
Thanks guys I got it off and sent block to machine shop to get bored out.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2014 18:47:43 GMT -5
No need to be makin MORE tools, do like br[] says, stick a couple bolts either end of the crank (i prefer the rear)put a bar between them, start rotating the harmonic balancer bolt counter-clockwise, you`ll figure out where to lock the bar you put between the bolts to your engine stand mounts real quick !
now that you have it off, you can use BR[]`s procedure to also install the bolt. Then put your bar away for the next time you need a bar. Or if you made a "tool" you can hang your new "tool" on the wall so you can say you have one.
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 7, 2014 20:16:30 GMT -5
Keep in mind that the bolt is torqued to 160 ft-lbs. I made a simple tool years ago to make this very easy. Just take an old crank pulley and weld a bar to it as a handle. Install this tool in place of the real pulley and you have a handle to prevent the motor from turning over when you loosen AND tighten the bolt. An impact wrench works fine for removing the bolt (my 1/2" IR impact has no problem), but you still need something to hold the crank when you torque the bolt after installing the balancer. Torque on that bolt was only 50 ft lbs.
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Post by BR[] on Sept 8, 2014 7:15:37 GMT -5
50? Everything I see says 160, that's what I've done.............
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 8, 2014 7:47:47 GMT -5
Olds service manuals say 50.
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Post by BR[] on Sept 8, 2014 10:55:46 GMT -5
I rechecked the old 65 Olds Chassis Manual and it says 160
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 8, 2014 11:13:02 GMT -5
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2014 11:16:29 GMT -5
I`m not going to argue ANYONES opinion
Everyone is right!! Depending where you look. Years ago, Mondello called for Min. 200#, I think mondellos most recent is 180 w/ loctite. The Chilton 60`s manuals all call out 50# except for the buick v6 @ 160# The 60`s motors manual calls for 100# I`ve put my fair share of these together at 100#, no dents in the hood, or radiaters with big gaping holes (yet)
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Post by looney1 on Sept 8, 2014 11:17:24 GMT -5
Screw it in with your fingers and hit it with the impact and call it good. If you haven't got a impact or a torque wrench, snug it up with a long bar or pipe. I never had any of that stuff when I was 16 and never had one fail. Common sense goes a long ways.
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 8, 2014 11:18:36 GMT -5
Just read the same manual where it shows how to remove and install it, and it says 160.
The chart at the end of the section in the 65-67 Oldsmobile manuals say 50 ft lbs. WTF???
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2014 11:22:28 GMT -5
I rechecked the old 65 Olds Chassis Manual and it says 160 I think that " CSM " (initialisms without prior reference, REALLY piss me off !!) also says theres a pigtail for a underhood light? I can`t find it. But then again, I`m old, with only 1 decent looker
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2014 11:25:55 GMT -5
Screw it in with your fingers and hit it with the impact and call it good. If you haven't got a impact or a torque wrench, snug it up with a long bar or pipe. I never had any of that stuff when I was 16 and never had one fail. Common sense goes a long ways. Exactly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You said what I wanted to say, just didn`t want to sound like a cave man
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Post by looney1 on Sept 8, 2014 11:32:33 GMT -5
I've been a cave man for years! A old timer told me once when I was a kid, "torque wrenches are for guys who don't know there own strength"
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Post by mongoose on Sept 8, 2014 11:54:49 GMT -5
I vote typo in the chart, since the torque spec right above it also says 50.
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 8, 2014 15:41:53 GMT -5
I vote typo in the chart, since the torque spec right above it also says 50. 66 and 67 manual also say 50. 68 manual shows 160 min. Oil drain plug, which was above the crank bolt, went from 50 to 30. I also noticed that 65 manual has 1-4 main caps down at 80 ft lbs, number 5 at 120. The next year big blocks went to 120 on all main caps.
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