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Feb 18, 2013 8:40:31 GMT -5
Post by jims442 on Feb 18, 2013 8:40:31 GMT -5
i hate to bring this up again but here in n calif it got a little warm so took the 442 out for a ride i was climbing a 6 percent grade for about 10 miles car started to get hot to 220 now i have a 4 core new radiator with a 19'' 7 blade clutch fan 180 thermostat i took off a 4 blade with no clutch for the same problem i also have a real nice shroud now that being said before i go electric fans what do you think of 160 thermostat or no thermostat at all don't know if i want to go aluminum radiator yet i want to try other ideas first so give me some
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Feb 18, 2013 9:47:13 GMT -5
Post by stan65cutlass on Feb 18, 2013 9:47:13 GMT -5
ive heard timing can contribute to overheating as well, the four blade fan may help matters,
my canadian 2 cents.
(have you heard canada phased out the penny? no more!) guess that makes my 2 cents worthless, heh heh
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Deleted
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Feb 18, 2013 11:05:02 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2013 11:05:02 GMT -5
Taking the thermostat out will only increase your problems with overheating, and it'll probably overflow. A lot of guys think removing the thermostat will help, but that li'l sucker's in there for a reason. Have you tested your existing thermostat to see if it's working? Sometimes, they quit "thermostating". I'm running a stock 4-core radiator, 5-blade flex fan, with the original stock shroud, and 180 thermostat in my '65 442 with a 455 motor and can't get it over 195. Something sounds amiss, especially with a new aluminum radiator. Your motor could be the problem if it is either rusted inside badly or, like stan65cutlass said, fast timing could be an issue.
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Feb 18, 2013 16:40:37 GMT -5
Post by jims442 on Feb 18, 2013 16:40:37 GMT -5
my timing is a little advanced i think ill fix that first now you think i should go back to the 4 blade fan with no clutch why is that?
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Feb 18, 2013 17:04:15 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2013 17:04:15 GMT -5
Fast timing will certainly add to a heating problem. Hard to say what else might be coming into play without knowing the car, but maybe your clutch fan isn't functioning properly. I've never ran one, just never cared for them. I'm sure a 5-blade fan will move more air than a 4-blade. Another thing, are you sure you don't have a cylinder leaking compression into the water jacket and literally blowing the water out of the radiator. We have had that problem on race cars before; just start the motor up without the radiator cap on (radiator full) and see if you are getting bubbles....just something else to check. Did you say you have a shroud on the car, and is the fan blade positioned right to the shroud?
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Feb 18, 2013 19:23:40 GMT -5
Post by jims442 on Feb 18, 2013 19:23:40 GMT -5
i'm thinking it's a air movement issue car is completely stock and all new 2,000 miles
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Feb 18, 2013 22:50:11 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2013 22:50:11 GMT -5
Fan should be half in half out of the shroud. Is the engine bored? Got the right diameter pulleys on everything? I've seen water pumps where the impeller slips on the shaft at driving speed. If ya think the thermostat isn't working, put it on the stove in a pan of water and see if it opens just before the water boils. One has to remember, the factory didn't use electric fans and aluminum radiators or any of the other modern day stuff we have now. They didn't over heat back then. The air we have now, "might", be polluted a little more, but, it's still pretty much the same air we had back then. So, it still should cool the car.
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Feb 19, 2013 7:54:55 GMT -5
Post by jims442 on Feb 19, 2013 7:54:55 GMT -5
what was the stock set up were they all different shroud? blades? clutch?
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Feb 19, 2013 10:02:09 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2013 10:02:09 GMT -5
I think most of the V8 GM cars back then had clutch fans on them, and shrouds (1964/1965) were merely metal rings, not completely enclosing ones as today. I think the fans were mostly 4-blades. Check your thermostat, like looney explained, check that your fan belt isn't slipping, your timing is right, no head gasket issues, and radiator flow isn't an issue. If fuel is extremely lean, that might add to the heating, but that's reaching out there. I do remember "back in the day" the factories had realized that the "big motors" actually ran better a bit hotter than normal. I had a '65 442 with a 400 motor then and it always ran up around 210-220, but it WAS bored .060, had 12-1 pistons, etc. When the motor gets hot, does the radiator overflow...or just the heat gauge goes up? You mentioned the car got hot when the air warmed up....how hot was it? I live in Kansas and our summers run up to 110 some days. I've had my buggy out on those days and it runs about 195.
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Feb 20, 2013 0:01:50 GMT -5
Post by rickman on Feb 20, 2013 0:01:50 GMT -5
The factories NEVER thoughtthey ran better, hotter - they changed to 195 to keep catalitic convertors hot on short trips, so they wouldn't clog, in 1975!!
What's happening is the "crap gas" is getting crappier! I wouldn't go less than 8 degrees advanceed, and seriously consider going up a couple jet sizes.
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Feb 20, 2013 8:13:39 GMT -5
Post by jims442 on Feb 20, 2013 8:13:39 GMT -5
i run 91 octane now may try some octane boost i think carb is fine and changed timing so next weekend ill take it out climb some hills and see what happens it only rises up hill or sitting in traffic all else is fine runs 160-180
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