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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 21, 2009 12:34:04 GMT -5
I've just acquired a 65 442 Grill, and discovered a crack on one of the mounting tabs and on the main body very close to the same tab. The majority of the tab is intact, but would guess that a few pounds of force will cause a total fracture. Anyone out there know how to repair this, without a large $$$ expense?
Thanks,
Ted
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 21, 2009 14:17:59 GMT -5
Give us a picture Ted, we'll see what we can do.
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Post by RAM Z on Apr 21, 2009 14:28:33 GMT -5
The bottom corner tab on mine was broke off. I took a scrap grill, ground the tab off it, and used Por Putty to attach it on the good grill. Once the putty hardened I sanded the front side of it before painting the whole grill.
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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 21, 2009 15:30:10 GMT -5
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 21, 2009 17:27:33 GMT -5
Well, they use solder to repair pits in pot metal, but that won't do for strength. I think if it was mine I would get some fiberglass resin and some matte and turn the fiberglass matte into a fine bunch of short strands. I would sand blast that area of the grill clean and mix up some of the fiberglass and a little resin make it like a thick paste and apply it around the crack. Let it dry, then do it again except go out a little farther from the crack. Let it dry, do it again and work farther out from the crack, until you have a good sturdy post but it doesn't screw with the mounting of the grill. Just mix a little at a time and repeat over the old layer and work yourself out. On the other side anything would work, the fiberglass stuff or devcon, bondo, whatever.
Edit!!!!! After looking at the other side again I probably would "V" the crack out like I was going to weld it and fill it with my fiberglass/ hardener/ resin mixture like the back side. Not too much "V" mind you but enough to get a little mixture in the crack.
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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 21, 2009 17:47:29 GMT -5
Jeff, thank you!
Any recommendations, as far as attempting to straightening the Tab, before applying a repair? Would epoxy be any more or less effective with a repair of this nature?
Ted
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 21, 2009 18:39:07 GMT -5
I think I would cross my fingers put a bolt in the tab and move it. I wouldn't think heat would do anything for you. I think the fiberglass resin and hardener with the fiberglass pieces would be better than epoxy but !!!!!! I just don't know. Guess you could try the two on something else and see which you like better.
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Apr 21, 2009 19:07:01 GMT -5
First I would start by drilling each end of the crack with a #30 drill to stop the crack. Then I would wire brush it till it shined, after that I would apply some J-B Weld, let it set till it ooooozed thru the crack and then I would slowly put pressure on it to close the crack and strighten the boss back up. Let it set up and then remove all excess J-B Weld , sand it smooth and paint it......Then I would look at the attaching points and make sure everything is correct for bolting it back in...even if its going into a different assembly.....just make sure it attaches without being under stress. That's what I would do. Maxx Tugg  |
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Apr 21, 2009 19:18:53 GMT -5
Follow-up........ I would not remove any material by -V- grooving it......and it should move back into position with just a little effort. Fiber glass resin layers is like a band aid.....need to put some very good material with bonding agents right into the crack and then re-align the boss. Or , else I think being out of alignment will cause it to fail again. U.S.Navy Aviation Structural Mechanic(22yrs)  Maxx Tugg |
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Apr 21, 2009 19:24:41 GMT -5
With a good TIG welder set up with the right "pulser" and the proper "flow" settings, HIGH Frequency Adjustments, pot metal can be welded.......just hard to find a trained welder with the experience and the proper welding machine....I had one , but that was in another life.
Maxx Tugg
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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 21, 2009 19:30:14 GMT -5
Thanks guys.... I only have one shot, so I don't want to mess this up. What is the recommendation for aligning the bolt hole, e.g., should I do this before using a stabalizer like epoxy? I think drilling the ends out seems clear, that this should be the very first step... With the core support in the car already, what difficulty should I expect in attempting to straighten the bolt? Should I then apply the epoxy with the grill mounted to the core support?
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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 21, 2009 19:31:18 GMT -5
MAxx, any plans to come to MI in the near future? ;D
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 21, 2009 19:30:13 GMT -5
See ask and you shall receive, good information on the drilling the cracks, I should have thought of that. I still think that fiberglass done correctly is more than band aid, then again I'm not a prophetic user of JB weld, I would rather use my mig welder, but not on that.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 21, 2009 19:39:01 GMT -5
Thanks guys.... I only have one shot, so I don't want to mess this up. What is the recommendation for aligning the bolt hole, e.g., should I do this before using a stabilizer like epoxy? I think drilling the ends out seems clear, that this should be the very first step... With the core support in the car already, what difficulty should I expect in attempting to straighten the bolt? Should I then apply the epoxy with the grill mounted to the core support? I wouldn't think it will take much to align the boss, but I would move it,check position in the car, move again if needed then fiberglass, epoxy, jbweld , whatever. If you install it and let the horse collar align it when you take it off it will want to go back to where it was. Get the boss aligned and then fix it. |
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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 21, 2009 19:41:25 GMT -5
Ok, wish me luck....  |
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Post by RAM Z on Apr 21, 2009 21:30:27 GMT -5
The one I did bolted on just fine. Id wad up some putty, which is a two part epoxy, press it into the cracked tab, put a weight on it to force it back in place, and go from there.
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Apr 22, 2009 20:17:23 GMT -5
I don't think luck is required, patients and being very careful will get you the results you want...as far as coming to Michigan.......not anytime soon.......JB Weld is a good product if used within it its intended uses....I think the procedure I stated using it is the best way to go, welding is "always" and I mean "always" the last means of repairing anything. If you are not totally familiar with the welding process and know in advance how the metal reacts, nothing but failure is about to come your way. From the pictures posted, I think its repairable and the boss can be aligned to original position if care is taken. I would not hessitate in doing it, I would even tig weld it for myself. However, I no longer have access to the very sophisticate tig welder I used everyday for 12 years when I worked for NorthropGrumman......believe me, the rumor that aluminium cans can be welded together is not a rumor.
Maxx Tugg
I've taught the INSTRUCTORS.
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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 22, 2009 21:02:45 GMT -5
Maxx, Thanks! I'll follow up with the results in this thread after I peform the repair. It might even be a good lesson for the Tech Section.... I'll take plenty of photos... Ted  |
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