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Post by nickthefish on Apr 14, 2009 19:26:01 GMT -5
I'm may be purchasing another Olds soon (I've been drugged like Bro, its a 66) and am looking into putting a 455 in it. Which bone stock 455 would be the one to get? I've got a 76 lined up but I think that's the worst one to get (low comp). Anyone got any knowledge of these?
Thanks,
Nick
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 14, 2009 19:35:12 GMT -5
You want one out of a Toronado, 455-400, I believe the year would be 68 but I wouldn't think it would be hard to look up.
Edit:
Went out to the garage to check the big red book
68 toro motor
455/400
400 Hp at 4800 RPM
500 Ft Lb torque at 3200 RPM
Also toro came with a 375 hp version same year.
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Post by nickthefish on Apr 14, 2009 19:41:28 GMT -5
That's what I was thinking, one out of a big body car 68-71. Nothing fancy.
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Post by BR[] on Apr 14, 2009 22:41:14 GMT -5
400 hp is pretty fancy
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Post by bubbasz1 on Apr 15, 2009 5:30:13 GMT -5
That's what was in my first 442 after the 400 threw a rod bearing. Mind you it was not in it's stock 400 HP form.
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2009 7:30:01 GMT -5
They are correct, the Toro motors are the ones to get. 68-69 factory rated 10.25:1 (actually more like 9.75:1) big valve C headed Toro 455's are 390 horse. I am currently building a 69 Toro 455 (461 now). The 70 W34 Toro GT had a 400 horse 455 with big valve E heads. Any F block 455 is good though... 68-72. There are low compression 68-72's, but they are still rated at 9.5:1 (prob around 9:1). You have to watch because the toro motors crank's weren't drilled for the 4 speed pilot bushing though.
The smogger 455's, 73-76 Fa blocks, are boat anchors. The J heads dont flow for shit and the pistons have dishes in them big enough to take a bath in. They are only around 8:1 compression. You would be way better off with a stock 400 than one of these. If you are planning on building it up, the Fa's aren't bad. Actually, some of the Fa blocks have thicker bore walls and webs due to worn out castings. The only thing to watch out for is these blocks dont have the ball stud hole for the clutch z bar, so you'd have to run a hydraulic clutch if its a stick. Weird thing is, they all have 4 speed cranks.
Bottom line, if you are building it up, it doesn't much matter which one you use, but if you are running a stock one, you want an early one, even if not from a Toro.
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Post by 1965f85 on Apr 15, 2009 7:47:22 GMT -5
Just in case you're interrested, I just finished a +030 455 Short Block. 396021 F Block, completely Deburred, Line Honed, Baked, Blasted etc... Forged Pistons, H-beam Connecting Rods, Ported Oil Pump, (should make 80 to 100lbs) Oil Restrictors "N" Crank fully Radiused, and Oil Holes drilled out, also Heat Treated. Crank Girdle, Double Row Timing Chain and Billet Gears. Bottom end filled up to the Freeze Plugs. Two piece Timing Chain Cover. Currently has a big 680 lift roller cam in it, but that could be very easily swapped out for a milder one. Motor should make a very pump gas friendly 10.25:1 with a 77 cc head. SFC Certified Balancer and Fly Wheel. Milodan 7Qt Oil Pan Deck Drilled and Tapped for 1/2 Studs. A lot of time, energy and care went into this Short Block. Everything new! I have nothing to put it in right now, essentially it's a spare... and taking up space in my garage. Photos at: www.tedstevens.us/455.htmlTed |
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