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Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2008 12:46:05 GMT -5
Does any one know where to buy Krylon AP-31 or Plasti-Kote FM8069? Or is there another paint that matches the original Oldsmobile paint?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2008 23:37:03 GMT -5
I found the Plasti Kote a PeP Boys
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2008 17:49:08 GMT -5
I went to Pep-Boys to order the Plasti-Kote FM8069. They special ordered 4-6oz. cans, I wanted 10 to 12 cans just in case I needed to touch up anything but, they did not have anymore in stock and it has been on back order to Plasti-Kote since May. Pep-Boys gave me Plasti-Kote's phone number and I called and asked them if I could order FM8069 directly from them. Plasti-Kote said that FM8069 has been obsolete and can no longer be ordered from Plasti-Kote. I asked who their customer's were so that I can contact them to see if they might have the paint. They asked where I lived and told me that Carquest and Fisher Auto Parts were there customers. I called the local Carquest and they said they had 8 cans in San Antonio. Needless to say if you really want this paint you might want to look now because it will not be around very much longer. If you want to call Plasti-Kote their number is 330-725-4511 and wait on the phone for the operator and ask who their customer's are in your region of the U.S. You might try Pep-Boys but I think I ordered their last cans from their Pennsylvania warehouse, other Carquest or Fisher Auto Parts might also carry this paint.
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 15, 2008 19:28:28 GMT -5
OMNI 22610.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2008 7:21:16 GMT -5
I'd be happy if I could get paint shipped! Can't do it to Europe. I have to use the paint #s (or DuPont# in some cases & have it custom mixed here! I've been promised a mix of target red due in any day that I need to cover 2 spots (1 R.R. trunk lid & 1 L.F. tip of bumper). Ralph
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2008 15:55:00 GMT -5
OMNI 22610. i am debating on what to do with my motor... i have the numbers matching 400, but i have a 69 455 going in it. i have the olds blue metallic that would have been on that motor, but i would like to go with the stock copper color if i could get one that is somewhat close. i like the redish copper omni 22610. it looks nothing like what is on that waterpump... where do you get it? is it high temp? i dont want it melting off around my exhaust ports... thanks guys. this all 65 forum is sweet
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Post by BR[] on Sept 16, 2008 18:00:04 GMT -5
The copper color on top of the can is nowhere close. The 65 was bronze not copper. I have no idea where the copper colored engines started, but I've seen quite a few 66 & 67's painted that color. I've been searching for the right color for years. Now as far as high temp paint with the right color...."ain't gonna happen". Get some eastwood high temp epoxy primer or header paint and prime with that, then shoot your color. Remember the engine was not a glossy finish. Mine has been on for over 15 years with no problems.
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Post by 442scotty on Nov 19, 2008 12:26:50 GMT -5
Does any one know where to buy Krylon AP-31 or Plasti-Kote FM8069? Or is there another paint that matches the original Oldsmobile paint? Here is the FM8069 converted to PPG Omni acyrlic urethane..(ford color) tried it on my clone engine to see how it would turn out...needs a flattening agent to make it not shine so much...I dont know how close it is to the original
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Post by Big Mike on Nov 22, 2008 11:29:35 GMT -5
The copper color on top of the can is nowhere close. The 65 was bronze not copper. I have no idea where the copper colored engines started Man Bro, I'm glad you post this. I'm amazed sometimes how something simple like this gets started from someone reading a post then swearing it's the real deal. Then it just snowballs from there. It's like the engine offset measurement thing on the 70-72 Supremes. I have 65 442 engine with the original paint and it is clearly the bronze color, not anywhere close to the copper color. If you had a bracket, water pump, valve cover, etc. that is in decent shape, you can take it to a large automotive paint store and they can color match it with their computer color scanner, it works pretty well. The color scanners are great for matching body colors on an old paint job when doing a panel repair.
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Post by 442scotty on Nov 23, 2008 11:56:39 GMT -5
hey Big Mike...how about some pics so we can see how it is supposed to look....would be nice...
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Post by RAM Z on Nov 23, 2008 12:27:03 GMT -5
NOS 65 442 A head.
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Post by Big Mike on Nov 23, 2008 12:42:43 GMT -5
hey Big Mike...how about some pics so we can see how it is supposed to look....would be nice... I knew someone would say that. OK, I will have unpile all the crap that's around it and unwrap it to get a picture, but I will. Won't be right away, but I have no problem posting on old threads! ;D
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Post by BR[] on Nov 23, 2008 15:35:37 GMT -5
Wrap that friggin' wierd colored head up and put it away, rumZ. NOS that did NOT come on the car DOES NOT COUNT
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Post by RAM Z on Nov 23, 2008 19:48:32 GMT -5
How about this Breaux....
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Post by bubbasz1 on Nov 23, 2008 20:33:04 GMT -5
I went with this, nice and dark, but for the purist, it probably won't be good enough.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2009 13:54:44 GMT -5
Seems like I read somewhere that there was an 80's Mazda engine paint color that was a really close match and since it is an engine paint it probably is high temp. I'll search around and see if I can see where I read it. I remember looking for it on the web and I found it and it did look like a real close match. If only I had a better memory .
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2009 20:48:09 GMT -5
Well I searched all my usual web haunts and couldnt find where I saw it so as Gilda Radner used to say on SNL....Nevermind.
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Jan 24, 2009 18:53:21 GMT -5
In 1969, I bought my first '65 from a dealer in Sebring Florida..........I remember the engine color to be more coppertone than the bronze. It was. I have pictures of this car but all is in storage in Michigan. My '65 was shown and received awards as the most Factory Correct car in the shows it was placed in......The color of the engine is more copper than bronze......could it be that paint was used from two different suppliers?
Maxx Tugg
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2009 10:10:02 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2009 12:27:14 GMT -5
I just found this in my archieves as well. Great info for restoring our cars.
There is alot of misconception about how original equipment Olds engines were painted. One thing you can say about Lansing and the people who built Oldsmobiles is that they devised excellent systems for building cars and for the most part stuck to the regimen or procedure. So there isn't really a lot of variance in the way engines were painted prior to installation. The trick is learning just what procedure they used. I do know based on the evidence I have and the employees I've talked to that the engines were fully assembled but not "dressed" when they were painted. What I mean by that is that the engine had assembled to it all the necessary components for the type of assembly it was to be except for those components that were determined by option. Components determined by option were installed at final dress which came after final assembly and test run. The components you'll find on a pre-dressed final assembly would be the exhaust manifolds and bolt locks, the distributor housing and hold down sans(without)cap, wires and spark plugs, the fuel pump sans fuel lines, water pump sans pulleys, complete starter and wiring harness, filler tube sans cap(pre'68), water outlet and coolant bypass hose and clamps, nipple cap and clamp(heater delete), oil filter and mount, cast alternator bracket (standard), bellhousing (sychomesh jobs)or flex plate (automatic jobs), valve covers, bolts and brackets sans grommets and crank dampner sans pulley. There were no carbs installed until final dress. Cap, plugs and wires were installed prior to test run but before dress. This procedure was not ideal but worked for the majority of engine builds. There were always retrofits or conversions that more than likely had to be dealt with at final dress (ie chrome valve covers on W30's with unpainted cad plated screws, air conditioning and heavy-duty cooling.). If one studies how the engines were painted you can see that engine color was applied fairly evenly but there were light areas where paint was to be avoided. Those areas to avoid would have been the exhaust manifolds, main housing of the fuel pump and starter. Running the paint was common too. I'm sure the engine painter had seconds to paint each engine as the line dept moving and that is after he decided what color he had to choose first! So basically there is little or no paint behind these components. If any Olds line employees can correct me or fill in any gaps please do so. Now that you have got your engine painted that nice bronze color then you install it in your chassis with the running gear then send the whole chassis assembly into the "black out" booth where all those nice NOS components get a hit or miss coating of running, glossy, gooey asphalt based rust preventative which usually coated all or part of the bottom of the motor. Yes, most engines were two tone. Color on top and black over color on bottom. I matched my olds engine color to some paint charts and was happy with the results. It's alot of personal preference when picking a suitable bronze to use. There are alot of bronzes out there. All '67 engine enamels were 0 degree gloss or flat. I can send you a pic of mine should you want it. Good luck and happy bronzing. Author:
you go C***. You be right on. But to add one thing, the oil filter was installed and would have some over spray on it, as would the other items you mentioned like, the starter. You are also right about the consistency of how things were done by line workers and management in seeing that the cars built in Lansing were built more "By the Book". This is evidenced by the warranty submissions by dealers for adjustments, repairs, etc. from other assembly plants as compared to the Lansing plant. I know, I saw the product reliability stats and Lansing usually was 1/2 the charge backs than other plants! Even though there was always the union (UAW) verses management tension thing , there was a lot of pride in the work place at the Lansing Assembly Plant. As I was exposed to upper level management both in the Service Dept. and Engineering I can say first hand there was extreme product loyalty. I just don’t buy that so many mistakes were made when all these people on this site claim this special part came on his/her car. Ya mistake were made but cost were keep so close as the profit margin was so close on GM cars. That’s why olds had so many inspectors at each assembly station not only for quality control but for Cost Control. If the wrong part was put on the cost factor for that item went out of site to correct the installation or that the part cost was not figured in to the actual cost. Author: Dave ****
The manifolds were not installed when the engine was painted (at least from 68-73 when I worked there). A shield was held in place briefly over the exhaust ports when that area was sprayed. I did see some very light over spray of engine color at the edges of the frt. edge of the frt. exhaust port surface and at the rear edge of the rear port. When the engine was fully dressed after painting is when the manifolds would be installed. I am sure this light over spray burned off when the engine was run in at the engine test station. I never saw a fully dressed engine ready for the engine test area with engine color on pulleys, brkts., exhaust manifolds, (alumn. intakes for w-cars in 70'), carbs, ignition wires and dist. caps, fuel lines, etc as C*** described. However, I do know the dist housing was installed at the time of painting and could have some over spray on it. This is evidence by the fact that I do have some small and big block dist. with some engine color on them at the base of the dist housing. You will also find that the engine painter sprayed very little amounts of engine color at the rear of the engine, especially in the bell housing area, why I do not know. I think they cut corners because of the amount of time they were allowed to apply the material. Inspectors in the engine paint station would not have allowed sparse painting to been done in other areas of the engine as the rear of the engine was somewhat out of view, tucked up and under the firewall. Remember the engines were also on an assembly line in the engine plant that moved at a certain, constant speed! Only the W-car engines were treated differently, as the engine was painted without some items not installed, like the intake and they where on individual assembly carts and not part of the moving regular engine assembly line. Author: Dave ****
In response to Brian, yes the 70 engine assembly manual does show the engine assembled with the exhaust manifolds with no specified exceptions about the manifolds. One would assume that that would be the way they went through the paint line. Dave says he doesn't remember seeing the manifolds on the engines prior to painting. I have not researched any low mileage '68-'73 jobs nor do I have an factory photos myself indicating what the assembly status might have been. So I can't give you a definite answer. I can say that even in the case of '64-'67's that it does not appear that the manifolds were to be specifically painted and even if they did receive some paint it was acceptable as it would burn off relatively quickly in the first few minutes or hours of operation. It's entirely possible that Olds didn't like the lack of coverage the assembled manifolds might have caused so they decided to delete them for painting or for some other reason. We'll need more facts to find out for sure just what the procedure was as it relates to Dave's observations. I believe that Olds did some type of masking/shielding on the early V-8's to keep paint off the manifolds. So going with a natural finish to your manifolds would be the logically way to restore them in my opinion
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