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carbs
Jan 11, 2010 15:17:31 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2010 15:17:31 GMT -5
I am just getting one of my engines going and was wondering what all you guys were using for carbs. All I did was massage the heads a little but am keeping everything pretty stock. I have a couple of descent 4GC Rochesters but was wondering about putting a Holley on the stock manifold. Don't know if it a good idea or which one to try and find. There seems to be alot of Holley carbs on ebay but don't know if I need a particular one. Thanks in advance for any help.
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carbs
Jan 11, 2010 15:43:53 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2010 15:43:53 GMT -5
I bought a rebuilt Rochester for my 65 from the Carb Doctor on E-bay. It looked great and worked even better. He does a good job and will back up his products. I paid a couple hundred If I remember correct. I once bought a Holley from the local auto parts store, and it was the correct look and all,but I had to return it three times. Don't know if all of them are garbage, or if it's just hit and miss. My two cents worth. I'm sure someone here will set you on the right path.
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carbs
Jan 12, 2010 9:27:29 GMT -5
Post by Big Mike on Jan 12, 2010 9:27:29 GMT -5
When it comes to carbs, I stopped using the 4GC's years ago, like 30+ years ago. I know a bunch of folks hate Holley's, but I haven't had any issues that others seem to have. I have a 650 double pumper on my vert. All of my Cutlass' have the stock type replacement carb that Holley sells, I can't remember the stock number; 1850, not sure? Holley's are easy to rebuild and maintain from my experience.
All carbs go bad if the car just sits so Holley's are no worse than others in my opinion.
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carbs
Jan 13, 2010 11:28:11 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2010 11:28:11 GMT -5
I don't hate Holley's per Se either, but, had my issues with the Holley Quadrajet look alike. However, it was just the one and only time that I bought that particular type. I was trying to stay Vintage looking for the 65.
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carbs
Jan 13, 2010 13:56:15 GMT -5
Post by rallye469 on Jan 13, 2010 13:56:15 GMT -5
The holley/Q-jet thing is personal.
If it's performance you're really after...go Holley(or quickfuel...a lot more bang for your buck in my opinion).
If you want original...go original.
-this isn't meant to ruffle feathers...i know you can go fast with a rochester...
-pete
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carbs
Jan 13, 2010 14:52:44 GMT -5
Post by bubbasz1 on Jan 13, 2010 14:52:44 GMT -5
If you want original...go original. -this isn't meant to ruffle feathers...i know you can go fast with a rochester... -pete I like my Rochester and it works well, better than the holley that was on it when I bought the car. As far as the original thing, doesn't ruffle my feathers either way, which ever runs the best. Is it fast with a Rochester, I would gather mine is as fast as it was when it was made, works for me.
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carbs
Jan 13, 2010 21:08:32 GMT -5
Post by Big Mike on Jan 13, 2010 21:08:32 GMT -5
I don't hate Holley's per Se either, but, had my issues with the Holley Quadrajet look alike. However, it was just the one and only time that I bought that particular type. I was trying to stay Vintage looking for the 65. I've never had any firsthand experience with the Holley QJet, but have heard that of the QJet replacements, Edlebrock was the best, but I don't think they are available any longer. Jeg's does sell a line of remanufactured QJets that are supposed to be pretty good if you are looking for a vintage type carb for your 65. We all know that if you want real originality you need a 4GC. Of course you can also get a good rebuilt 4GC or QJet and the only place to do that is here; www.sparkyscarbs.com/ Sparky really knows his way around a QJet and is an Olds guy. I've never used his services, but there are a ton of Olds guys that swear by him.
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carbs
Jan 30, 2010 20:02:10 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2010 20:02:10 GMT -5
I run both a Holley and an Edelbrock both on the stock cast iron manifolds,did purchase an adaptor to run the Holley. I put a the stock chrome air cleaner over a 66 or aftermarket bottom and all is good. I had stumbling issues with the 4gcs I have owned.
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carbs
Mar 6, 2010 15:19:32 GMT -5
Post by 1partshelp@gmail.com on Mar 6, 2010 15:19:32 GMT -5
I am new to the forum. I just completed my 65 442 about a month ago and have a small problem maybe someone can help. I have the 400ci engine and 4gc carb. Because where I live in AZ. I can't get high octane fuel. So when I built the motor I made it about 91/2 ratio. Now in 1st gear when you step on it it falls flat on it's face. Changing the timing helps a little. The idle screws are turned out 5 turns to make it idle half way smooth. Does anyone have any ideas that might help. I am at my wits end. Thanks JIM
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carbs
Mar 6, 2010 16:38:01 GMT -5
Post by RAM Z on Mar 6, 2010 16:38:01 GMT -5
I am new to the forum. I just completed my 65 442 about a month ago and have a small problem maybe someone can help. I have the 400ci engine and 4gc carb. Because where I live in AZ. I can't get high octane fuel. So when I built the motor I made it about 91/2 ratio. Now in 1st gear when you step on it it falls flat on it's face. Changing the timing helps a little. The idle screws are turned out 5 turns to make it idle half way smooth. Does anyone have any ideas that might help. I am at my wits end. Thanks JIM Sounds like we are in the same boat. Mine does the same thing. Ive messed with the timing, put the points back in it instead of the pertronix, swapped carbs, checked compression, swapped fuel pumps. Nothing seems to work. So next thing is to pull it back out and check the cam position. And see if the cam is a 45 degree unit. Does it make any power at speed or from a roll?
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carbs
Mar 6, 2010 19:57:39 GMT -5
Post by BR[] on Mar 6, 2010 19:57:39 GMT -5
Glad to see you made it here Jim............. Have you tried setting your carb with a vacuum guage?
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carbs
Mar 6, 2010 21:01:33 GMT -5
Post by bubbasz1 on Mar 6, 2010 21:01:33 GMT -5
Glad to see you made it here Jim............. Have you tried setting your carb with a vacuum guage? I'd also check for a vacuum leak, and then>>read this on carbs. www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htmSounds like exactly what they refer to on what causes a bog.
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carbs
Mar 6, 2010 22:24:54 GMT -5
Post by stan65cutlass on Mar 6, 2010 22:24:54 GMT -5
i have a carter afb 750 competition series, put a carb kit in this morning to cure a huge flat spot off idle. it was missing a weight and a check ball, plus very dirty. its the same kit for an edelbrock. a very simple carb and reliable from what ive heard. runs a lot better now. air cleaners dont fit without a 5/8 spacer.they are sensitive to vacuum leaks, but i would think most are. stan
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carbs
Mar 14, 2010 12:21:31 GMT -5
Post by oldsproject on Mar 14, 2010 12:21:31 GMT -5
Hey Gary, Just my 2-cents but I've had alot of the same problems. I found it was a combination of things. If you are confident your cam is right and degreed correctly, and your timing chain is where you want it (key pieces) then be sure to get your timing and advance curve down first. I found on these cars you want the advance coming in pretty quick (first 2500 rpm's or less). I like a heavier lobe at idle, so worked to get the car to idle at between 600-650 rpm's. Best way I found for all of these adjustments was to find a steep hill (lots in Oregon) and while the car is under heavy strain you'll know if you have predetonation, flat spots, etc (which is common with high compression, crappy gas combo's) Once I had the above dialed in, I started working on the carb. First check vacuum to be sure no leaks etc. Then get your idle/chock down. After that, work with the primary's (jets and rod combos). Once you get the right combo on the primaries, start working the secondaries. Keep in mind the idle screws and chock really do very little to correct anything except idle and cold starts (something many people don't understand). Once the cars rolling, the air/fuel mixture is coming from the primaries and secondaries. If you have a flat spot under normal acceleration or quick starts, it's most likely your primaries. If you have a flat spot while your crusing and hit the gas, it's probably the secondaries. Best thing to do is to buy a carb kit and play with the combo's until you like it. It can be frustrating but keep in mind, it's all about fuel AND air mixture. Too much of either will cause flat spots or bogs. Rich is too much gas, lean is too much air and the screws on your carb primarily affect idle. I'm using a 750 edlebrock, HEI, performer intake combo on a 425 that's .30 over. I had the problems and frustrations you listed. The main piece of mind I had though is knowing the cam was the correct angle, where I set the timing chain (to account for stretch) and the fact that I personnally degreed my cam in. So those I knew were nut on. The rest was timing, advance curve, vacuum, idle and air fuel mixture at running speeds and full throttle. For me, in that order. Sorry to be so long-winded PS, unless you drop compression run premium and no ethonal if possible. While ethonal blends are theoretically the same octane, they don't combust like good old straight gasoline. If all else fails, through in race gas ;D ( it will help if you can afford it).
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