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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2009 14:53:33 GMT -5
Have any of you ever rebuilt your fuse box? I'm talking doing it yourself. Thinking about dismantling it, and putting all new fuse clips and all that implies. Need to know the skill level involved and the best resource for supplies. I have found a couple places to buy but it's always good to hear from those who have had the experience.
Thx, Todd
P.S. My Thanks to RAMZ for chiming in over at O.C about the rocker numbers. We 65 guy's have to stick together.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Dec 19, 2009 22:30:07 GMT -5
I had the same thoughts Todd, doesn't seem like it should be to hard to replace those rusty clips, I haven't got that far, do you have replacement clips for the fuse box, and if so where did you get them. Jeff
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Post by nickthefish on Dec 20, 2009 0:10:16 GMT -5
Befre you replace them you might want to try soaking your fuse box in Metal Prep Dip made by Zep Products. It will eat 100% of the rust and corrosion and not harm the wires. And save you a lot of time re-wiring it.
Just my .02 cents.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2009 14:31:25 GMT -5
Jeff, here is where I would go if I were to buy today. I have not bought anything as of yet. I like Nicks Idea and plan to do the soaking first. It may be that I will just soak it and clean it instead. I have two fuse boxes to play with. Here is L and L's electric's site. www.lectriclimited.com/mainpage.htm
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2009 17:08:17 GMT -5
I'd try the soaking first too.
I wanted to redo mine due to rusty clips, but after an exhausting search replacement fuse clips were nowhere to be found. I had to have my whole harness rebuilt, sent it to CA and had it done. They put all new clips in and did a great job, I've never had a single electric problem in 10 years.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2009 18:52:43 GMT -5
I like the soak idea also.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2009 19:54:00 GMT -5
I could not find the Zep product, but, I did find a gallon of Evapo-Rust. I bought at Harbor Freight. It's been soaking now for 3 1/2 hours, so far, so good. Looks like it's doing the job. I read the label and it's safe on wires and other areas. Thanks for the tips y'all.
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Post by nickthefish on Dec 25, 2009 19:57:42 GMT -5
Let us know how it works. The Zep stuff is hard to find but well worth it. How much was the stuff from Harbor Freight?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2009 9:42:57 GMT -5
Nick, the price was $19.95 which seems high for Harbor. I figured it must work for $20.00. It sure beats $450.00 to have it re wired. Don't get me wrong, I'd rather have a bunch of money to re-wire the whole car, but, not if I can clean it up nice for less dough.
P.S. I took it out this morning and it looks like it worked, now all I gots to do, is let it drip dry, wipe it down a little more and silver solder a bit here and there, which I've never done. Any tips?
Thanks again for saving me $$$$
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Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2009 18:47:02 GMT -5
Don't use silver to solder, it's too expensive. Silver is usually used in space shuttle, military hardware and such.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2009 19:14:04 GMT -5
Go to your local electronic shop and get real thin solder for circuit boards and such. Use the cheaper style heat irons, not that big black gun. Get a solder station stand with a small sponge on it to clean the tip. You can also clean the tip by wiping with a wet rag or such, don't burn yourself. If you don't want to spend too much just get a solder iron stand. You need something to hold the hot iron when not in use.
While you are at it, check the circuit card on the back of the instrument cluster. Sometimes they burn a section. With some finess you can jump the burned spot with a small wire and solder.
If you have exposed conductors during your project try to cover them with heat shrink. I use a heat gun paint stripper to shrink the tubing. You can use a lighter, but don't burn it.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2009 10:38:22 GMT -5
Thanks Moxct, good to know. My wife already bought me a Solder gun from good 'ol Harbor freight. I told her I just wanted a cheapo iron, but this one looks pretty nice. It's got 3 extra tips with it. Also, She got me some lead free Rosin core solder. It's 99.3% tin and .7% copper. I also have some lead free rosin core with 96% tin ND 4% SILVER. Which one would be the product of choice? Or dose it matter? Also, would you be apt to put any solder on the back of the fuse box where the wires connect (where you split your Fuse box in half) to the back of the clips? Or should I just clean the connections?
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Post by 442scotty on Dec 27, 2009 11:03:55 GMT -5
I know you want to rebuild the box yourself...Im that way too...wanna do it all...
One of my two 65's had an under dash fire because of old wiring...I replaced the whole thing from M&H along with every other harness available...
I thought about rebuilding the fuse box myself on my other 65 but all that moving around under there bending, flexing old wires...Only takes one bad one to ruin a car...Im gonna replace that whole harness as well next year...Cheap insurance and peace of mind ..
(well not really cheap but money well spent)
Just my two cents worth
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2009 12:55:38 GMT -5
Thanks Scotty, I've thought about that too. Still going to take precautions and test out my wiring. I hate fires and will see what I can do to prevent a catastrophe.
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