Post by oldsproject on Nov 18, 2009 11:21:16 GMT -5
Looking for opinions and advice.
I'll be getting my 65 Cutlass back from the paint shop around Thanksgiving. It's basically a "No Frills" Cutlass with few options. I converted it to floor shift, will probably add power brakes and maybe power steering as I have the extra stuff. Thats about it though. I changed the tranny to a TH350 (no-stall) and put in a 425 bored .30 over from a 67 dynamic. The motor rebuild we did ourselves to the following specs:
Crank - Steel Forged and Balanced
Pistons - Egge 10.25:1
Rings - Federal Mogul Sealed Power (file gapped)
Heads - C with valve job but no porting (increased compression by using a thinner head gasket - .051)
Valve Train and springs - Comp Cams Mag Rods, Mag Lifters, Mag Rockers, Guide Plates, BeeHive Springs
Cam - Mondello JM 20-22
Replaced turkey tray with a valley tray
Oil Pump - standard but increased return oil flow per Mondello specs
Moly Strap reinforcements on main bearings with ARP studs.
Intake - Edelbock Performer
Carb - Edelbrock 750 CFM
MSD plug and play Ignition
Exhaust Manifold - Hooker Comp Headers
Exhaust - 2.5" Flow Master with cross over pipe
The intent was to have a good solid street machine and not something for the track. Given where I am, I'm begining to see ghosts
with the 10 bolt 8.2 differential. It's a peg leg now but will eventually convert or swap to a posi. If I convert it, will it hold up (has 3.08's now) under heavy street use and what can I do to make it more bullet proof than what it is? Or should I even worry 
I'll be getting my 65 Cutlass back from the paint shop around Thanksgiving. It's basically a "No Frills" Cutlass with few options. I converted it to floor shift, will probably add power brakes and maybe power steering as I have the extra stuff. Thats about it though. I changed the tranny to a TH350 (no-stall) and put in a 425 bored .30 over from a 67 dynamic. The motor rebuild we did ourselves to the following specs:
Crank - Steel Forged and Balanced
Pistons - Egge 10.25:1
Rings - Federal Mogul Sealed Power (file gapped)
Heads - C with valve job but no porting (increased compression by using a thinner head gasket - .051)
Valve Train and springs - Comp Cams Mag Rods, Mag Lifters, Mag Rockers, Guide Plates, BeeHive Springs
Cam - Mondello JM 20-22
Replaced turkey tray with a valley tray
Oil Pump - standard but increased return oil flow per Mondello specs
Moly Strap reinforcements on main bearings with ARP studs.
Intake - Edelbock Performer
Carb - Edelbrock 750 CFM
MSD plug and play Ignition
Exhaust Manifold - Hooker Comp Headers
Exhaust - 2.5" Flow Master with cross over pipe
The intent was to have a good solid street machine and not something for the track. Given where I am, I'm begining to see ghosts
with the 10 bolt 8.2 differential. It's a peg leg now but will eventually convert or swap to a posi. If I convert it, will it hold up (has 3.08's now) under heavy street use and what can I do to make it more bullet proof than what it is? Or should I even worry 
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, think it's probably best to stick with the peg leg for now and save up for the 9" next summer.