Removing body from frame

I don't remember finding one there? I'll have to look again.

Blast then sand with 80 grit on a DA. That will make it smooth again.

Nice thoughts here. I'd like to add some info related to coatings.

I'm an ASTM D4537 certified coatings level III inspector. My area is somewhat limited to 2 part epoxies and 100% solid polymers.

With that said, the idea behind Blasting, Sanding, Wire Wheeling, is to remove all the dirt, scale, rust etc. The second idea behind surface prep it to provide an appropriate profile (anchor pattern) for the coating to adhere to. So for example, if you blast with a harsh media such as black beauty, the profile could be as high as 6 mils (.006"). Knowing this, depending on the thickness of the coating system to be used, you need to cover the peaks of the profile. Think of it as a mountain range, filling it with paint and leaving the peaks sticking out of the paint. What will happen? Rust. So therefore you need a good anchor pattern, and you need to cover it completely usually by 40% so in the example of 6mils (.006) your target dry film thickness (DFT) should be 10 to 12mils (.010 - .012") and depending on how much solvents are in your coating system, your wet film thickness (WFT) may need to be 14 to 16mils (.014 - .016) That means you may need two or three coats to cover your profile sufficiently because (again) depending on your coating system, too much wet paint will run. So 6 to 10 mils is usually the max per coat and again that depends on how thin (runny) your paint is.

Hope this makes sense.

This information is for a paint that would be used on a frame, not a body panel. Body paint is very very very thin and the body anchor pattern is usually very low. Food for thought.

Moxct
Thanks for the two cent's it always helps to know just a bit more than you used to. I work in metal stamping and we have done on the outside a lot of electroplating, E coat, and some powder coat. It's nice to have a little more knowledge of the primer sealant even if we probably don't have the skills as you do as far as checking them.

You are welcome, I was just trying to stimulate some thought.

If you do decide to blast, you may want to duct tape over those precious numbers.

A few more pix, dissassemly continues and the tractor has become a real asset lifting everything off


Power washed, motor and tranny off...... feeling good!


Lot's of oil and sludge build up over the years that won't come off with the power wash so had to chisel it


This wasn't being used but assuming it's for the tranny lines


Here's better picture of the rear coil spring tag


Both springs had tags ;D ;D ;D


Measurement of the ring placements

Really nice pictures. I should have taken more pics of mine. I just took a couple far away ones of the striped frame. It'll be Nice documentation on yours.

Here's an update, lot's ahead of me yet but feel like I'm getting a handle on the frame . Used Eastwoods 3-part Chassis paint system, blasted to white metal as advised by RAM Z.

Youve been busy! keep it up, looks killer.