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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2009 9:35:16 GMT -5
has anyone rolled the lip of the fenderwell up on the rear of a 64-65? how did you do it? i need to do this on mine to fit 275/60-15 m/t drag radials on the back... it is very close. the tire is about 11.50" wide and i have 12" from the inside of the fenderwell to the inside of the quarter lip. i also have to get an 8" wheel with 1/4" more bs to move it in a little. i would rather it rub on the inside if it is going to rub...
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Post by nickthefish on Sept 8, 2009 11:24:03 GMT -5
Welcome back Jake!! Mine were rolled and I unrolled them. How they did it I don't know, it didn't hurt anything before or after.
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Post by Big Mike on Sept 8, 2009 11:24:17 GMT -5
has anyone rolled the lip of the fenderwell up on the rear of a 64-65? how did you do it? i need to do this on mine to fit 275/60-15 m/t drag radials on the back... it is very close. the tire is about 11.50" wide and i have 12" from the inside of the fenderwell to the inside of the quarter lip. i also have to get an 8" wheel with 1/4" more bs to move it in a little. i would rather it rub on the inside if it is going to rub... I've never done it, but Eastwood sells a tool to do just that. Here's a link that should take you to the page in their online cataloge; www.eastwood.com/catalog/product/view/id/1286/s/ew-fender-roller-w-instruction/category/12/If that link doesn't work, it's on the first page that loads after clicking on the "Autobody" link from the left side of the home page. Here's what it looks like;  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2009 12:00:01 GMT -5
thanks guys... that is an awesome tool, but i would rather not have to buy it ;D haha i have heard of people using a baseball bat... not beating it up in (haha) but rolling it along the edge. i am just not sure how that works... maybe i will just make a wheel like that? can someone refresh my memory of what the stainless wheelwell molding looks like as well, because mine were never on the car since i have owned it. will that need rolled as well i wonder? Welcome back Jake!! Mine were rolled and I unrolled them. How they did it I don't know, it didn't hurt anything before or after. thanks, i have been out of the internet loop for a while... haha how did you un-roll it? |
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Post by Big Mike on Sept 8, 2009 12:35:55 GMT -5
thanks guys... that is an awesome tool, but i would rather not have to buy it ;D haha i have heard of people using a baseball bat... not beating it up in (haha) but rolling it along the edge. i am just not sure how that works... maybe i will just make a wheel like that? can someone refresh my memory of what the stainless wheelwell molding looks like as well, because mine were never on the car since i have owned it. will that need rolled as well i wonder? Cheap a#*  Just kidding. The baseball bat trick is rather easy, you just stick the bat up against the tire at the back of the wheel opening (at the rear of the tire and the body at the rear of the wheel opening) then have some slowly drive the car forward. The bat rides up over the tire pushing out the fender well. However, you don't want to do that with the new tires because it will flare the lip out too far, I would do it with the old tires. Or better yet, just use a wooden dowel rod the correct size to open up the lip a bit. I don't think you would have to roll the trim piece because it screws onto the very edge of the opening. However, you may have to tweak it a little to get it to sit flush. I'll go snap some pictures to post to show you what it looks like, but most likely someone will beat me to it. The rear trim piece is pulled towards the rear more rather than down like the front is. If you place the front and rear over each other, the rear is a little longer than the front. |
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 8, 2009 12:52:10 GMT -5
I dont think that tool would work on our cars, the wheel lips arent perfectly round like that car in the photo. The rear is pretty flat, how would a tool that rotates make a flat lip?
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Post by Big Mike on Sept 8, 2009 13:03:00 GMT -5
Here's the pics of the trim. Front:  Rear:  Measurement Line:  The line measures 2'5" on the rear and 2'4" on the front. |
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Post by Big Mike on Sept 8, 2009 13:09:08 GMT -5
I dont think that tool would work on our cars, the wheel lips arent perfectly round like that car in the photo. The rear is pretty flat, how would a tool that rotates make a flat lip? I think it will still work. With our cars, I don't think the shape would be a stumbling point, if anything I would think it's the gage of the steel and stoutness of older cars verses newer cars. But the tool was designed for restoration work, so they know we are using it on older cars. My guess is the way you adjust it that it would work on any shape of opening and vehicle. That's the way it looks to me. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2009 14:30:35 GMT -5
thanks a lot for your help guys! the tire is round,and the tool rotates around the centerline of the wheel, so the flat spot in the lip would be round to match the tire... the entire lip all the way around doesnt necessarily need to be rolled...
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Post by nickthefish on Sept 14, 2009 7:04:27 GMT -5
We unrolled mine very carefully with a pair of wide flat Vise Grips. You can't even tell it was ever rolled. Are you installing wheel opening moldings? Those might be in the way too.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2009 15:05:37 GMT -5
ill be using the fenderwell moldings, and more than likely i will have to roll them as well... not a big deal. i would put them on first and then roll the lip.
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Post by nickthefish on Sept 14, 2009 18:23:18 GMT -5
ill be using the fenderwell moldings, and more than likely i will have to roll them as well... not a big deal. i would put them on first and then roll the lip. Fo you have crappy ones to do a trial run with? |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2009 6:42:34 GMT -5
no just my good ones... ill get it... it shouldnt be too bad.
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Post by Big Mike on Oct 20, 2009 12:01:39 GMT -5
This just hit my inbox from Eastwood; tinyurl.com/ygblzj2It is a cheaper alternative to the bolt on the hub type. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2009 13:44:48 GMT -5
thanks for the response man! this post is old! that thing looked like it was denting the shit out of the outside of the fender. if i was designing that tool it would have a lot more surface area contacting the outhside of the fender to spread out the force over a larger area making for less psi to avoid dents. thats just my 2 cents.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Oct 20, 2009 17:53:02 GMT -5
I would be bummed if that was my car he just did that to, ah, what's a little wave here or there.
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