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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 15:54:28 GMT -5
I purchased a 4 core aluminum radiator from Summit 2 years ago, made my own shroud (so to speak), added a 1100 pusher electric
fan, changed coolant and car still gets hot. Next step (I think) is to somehow increase airflow to and thru radiator. Am considering a high
volume electric fan, with aluminum shroud. Have found some pulling 4000cfm, but none to match measurements of my engine bay
radiator mounts (19hx22.225wx3.5d). Does anyone have an idea of approx. how much airflow will be needed to cool this thing down.
At anything above 20mph, temp runs 195d, when idling in stop/go, temp will go up over 210d. No headers, mild cam, th350. Anyone??
thanks
ted
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Post by shane on Dec 2, 2015 17:38:50 GMT -5
Timing can affect your temp. Also a slipping belt, bad cap?
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Post by sascha on Dec 2, 2015 18:08:46 GMT -5
from my experience the personal word of Joe Mondello "the heat comes from inside the engine…" was a good advice, piston to wall clearance is to be considered, as well as the pulleys that have to match.
I am running high comp engines with 236 cams and no problems with stock radiators
Sascha
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Post by sascha on Dec 2, 2015 18:10:13 GMT -5
and electric fans where never my choice but rather a good fan with a good working clutch
Sascha
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 18:24:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. New radiator cap. No real shroud on car when I got it, and the "shroud" I put on it was simply
a "ring" around the fan. Has anyone seen a 65 v8 post car with a "factory" shroud?
timing is 14btc. Believe 34deg all in. As far as I know this car did
not have a fan clutch, at least it hasn't since I have had it. Engine has approx. 5000mi on it since rebuild.
Got hot with stock radiator, that was reason for 4 core from Summit. also have installed trans cooler.
ted
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Post by rag on Dec 2, 2015 21:44:48 GMT -5
I don't believe in aluminum radiators and never will buy one. I've never had problems in any Olds small or big block if the following is in place:
1. Original radiator tanks with new modern efficient 4 row radiator core in place. Matching original core dimensions is not an issue.
2. Radiator shroud, either the a/c 442 one or a/c Cutlass ones that did come on post cars if they had a/c.
3. New clutch fan, number of fan blades installed on clutch shouldn't matter. Buy a HD fan clutch specified for the '80's diesel cars.
I live at high altitude and have to retard timing to around 7-8 degrees with a high compression engine.
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 3, 2015 13:01:20 GMT -5
I don't believe in aluminum radiators and never will buy one. I've never had problems in any Olds small or big block if the following is in place: 1. Original radiator tanks with new modern efficient 4 row radiator core in place. Matching original core dimensions is not an issue. 2. Radiator shroud, either the a/c 442 one or a/c Cutlass ones that did come on post cars if they had a/c. 3. New clutch fan, number of fan blades installed on clutch shouldn't matter. Buy a HD fan clutch specified for the '80's diesel cars. I live at high altitude and have to retard timing to around 7-8 degrees with a high compression engine. All good info. While I have not had any issues with aluminum radiators, I am deathly afraid of electric fans. Nothing beats a good factory fan with a thermostatic clutch. I too have never had an overheating problem with an Olds V8 and stock cooling system. A 330 should be cooled just fine with a two row brass radiator. A four-row anything is overkill. Unless the radiator is partly blocked, it is not the OP's problem. Look at timing, lean mixture, retarded cam, or plugged cooling jacket. |
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Post by BR[] on Dec 3, 2015 17:40:53 GMT -5
I don't believe in aluminum radiators and never will buy one. I've never had problems in any Olds small or big block if the following is in place: 1. Original radiator tanks with new modern efficient 4 row radiator core in place. Matching original core dimensions is not an issue. 2. Radiator shroud, either the a/c 442 one or a/c Cutlass ones that did come on post cars if they had a/c. 3. New clutch fan, number of fan blades installed on clutch shouldn't matter. Buy a HD fan clutch specified for the '80's diesel cars. I live at high altitude and have to retard timing to around 7-8 degrees with a high compression engine. All good info. While I have not had any issues with aluminum radiators, I am deathly afraid of electric fans. Nothing beats a good factory fan with a thermostatic clutch. I too have never had an overheating problem with an Olds V8 and stock cooling system. A 330 should be cooled just fine with a two row brass radiator. A four-row anything is overkill. Unless the radiator is partly blocked, it is not the OP's problem. Look at timing, lean mixture, retarded cam, or plugged cooling jacket. Don't you mean "elliptically challenged cam"  |
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 5, 2015 10:52:35 GMT -5
Don't you mean "elliptically challenged cam" I think the term you are looking for is "angularly challenged"... |
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Post by bubbasz1 on Dec 6, 2015 7:39:41 GMT -5
One important piece of the puzzle not metioned in the post is thermostate, what temp are you running and what brand.
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