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Post by jims442 on Nov 12, 2015 9:47:21 GMT -5
Getting ready to install rebuilt muncie.Taking out old one that i cut shaft,worked fine with cut shaft just thinking i would rather drill crank than cut shaft.That being said do i need a special bit to get through how perfect do i have to be,also will drilling affect balance in any way has anyone done this and have any suggestions thanks in advance Jim. and what size bit should i use
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Post by jcf85post on Nov 12, 2015 17:16:07 GMT -5
i've done this two times,engine assembled out of car.safe to say you should get it as close to perfect as possible,i haven't had any problems and raced both engines many many times,still running the second one. no special kind of bit needed.i drilled for an early chevy bushing,was able to purchase a bit from grainger the right size to give enough interference fit.would have to look at the bit to tell you the size.it was around $75 and used a mag drill mounted on the stick flywheel.jc
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Post by joepadavano on Nov 13, 2015 12:15:09 GMT -5
If your question is about drilling a clearance hole so you can use the aftermarket adapter bushing without cutting the end of the input shaft, then this is a low-precision hole that you can drill by hand. Expect to spend a LOT Of time stepping the hole size up from the original pilot drill. This will not affect balance of the crank. The final hole only needs to be slightly larger in diameter than the input shaft nose.
If you are asking about a hole to install a factory-style pilot bearing, you need to have a machine shop do it.
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Post by jims442 on Nov 13, 2015 14:51:55 GMT -5
Yes you are correct,Its for after market bushing your saying I should start out small & work my way up in bit sizes.I'm also wanting to do it with motor in car is that possible what do you think
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Post by joepadavano on Nov 13, 2015 15:03:19 GMT -5
Yes you are correct,Its for after market bushing your saying I should start out small & work my way up in bit sizes.I'm also wanting to do it with motor in car is that possible what do you think People have done it that way. It's a royal PITA, but it can be done. Good upper body workout.  |
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Post by jims442 on Nov 13, 2015 16:55:23 GMT -5
Maybe I should just cut the shaft like I have now and just make it easy, the cut shaft seams to work fine
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 19:01:20 GMT -5
 Here is what i created to drill cranks. Works quite well. |
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 3, 2015 13:03:12 GMT -5
Here is what i created to drill cranks. Works quite well. Very cool. I assume the use of the bellhousing is just to provide additional alignment and arm relief? There's probably a market for renting this tool to the Olds community. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2015 21:27:59 GMT -5
Yes, it bolts to the bell housing, i have drilled 5 or 6 using this tool, including a 350 that was still in the car, started the motor and held the drill with a wrench, in hind site, a really bad idea!
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Post by joepadavano on Dec 7, 2015 10:03:35 GMT -5
Yes, it bolts to the bell housing, i have drilled 5 or 6 using this tool, including a 350 that was still in the car, started the motor and held the drill with a wrench, in hind site, a really bad idea! Sounds like a "Hey! Watch this." moment...  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2015 18:57:10 GMT -5
Still have all fingers and toes!
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Post by boba65442 on Dec 13, 2015 21:39:52 GMT -5
Super cars Unlimited has a pilot bearing adapter for $49.00 I went this route on my last engine rebuild. Prior to that I cut the trans input shaft but that was many years ago.
Pilot Bearing Adapter
Our pilot bearing adapter is an innovative way to convert an automatic crankshaft for use with a manual transmission. Until now you had to have an expensive factory M/T crank. Or have an automatic crank machined to accept a pilot bearing. This required removing the crank from the engine. An in-car conversion is now possible. By using the torque converter ring of the crank, our adapter bearing (not a bushing) assures the input shaft is dead centered with the crank. Installation requires only minor shortening of the input shaft or drilling a dead hole in the back of the crank (can be done with common shop tools). Instructions included.
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