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Post by hicompolds on Jan 9, 2013 11:22:31 GMT -5
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Post by shane on Jan 9, 2013 11:48:01 GMT -5
I wouldn't send 1cent to the parts place for any of there parts . It's a poor business operation.
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Post by keener on Jan 9, 2013 12:43:16 GMT -5
Agree with Shane. I've only had bad luck. Grant had bad luck as well. They send the wrong parts and then are a pain in the ass when trying to return. Just be patient. That is a lot of cash for parts you can pull off a parts car. The onyl thing you should need to replace from a parts car are the rubber boots. You still need to pull the engine and drill the crank, unless you know the crank is drilled for the pilot bearing.
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Post by hicompolds on Jan 9, 2013 13:37:30 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback. I was just looking to see what options are out there. The 330 is coming out for a refresh when I'm ready and I can have the crank drilled at that time. Or maybe a 425. ;D
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Post by keener on Jan 9, 2013 13:55:12 GMT -5
just a suggestion....keep looking for parts while you refresh the engine, which will take some time. If all that is done and you still need parts, then resort to spending high dollar for new stuff.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 16:28:25 GMT -5
I wouldn't even use em' as a last resort. Called them twice, both times they left me feeling like I interuped there day. Did buy a part from them once. Got bent over the pickle barrel on the shipping, big time!
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Post by hicompolds on Jan 10, 2013 16:25:24 GMT -5
just a suggestion....keep looking for parts while you refresh the engine, which will take some time. If all that is done and you still need parts, then resort to spending high dollar for new stuff. Good advice...thanks keener.  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2013 23:32:25 GMT -5
I have a good 330 stick crank for sale
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Post by mongoose on Jan 11, 2013 8:16:21 GMT -5
I also have a 330 auto crank that I'd give ya if you wanted to have that one modified instead. You just pay the shipping. I just hate to haul it to the scrap yard.
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Post by Big Mike on Jan 11, 2013 10:42:00 GMT -5
If you're pulling the engine, check the boss on the engine where the Z-bar is located to make sure that is drilled and tapped as well. Most likely not if it is an engine in an automatic car.
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Post by hicompolds on Jan 13, 2013 11:48:42 GMT -5
I also have a 330 auto crank that I'd give ya if you wanted to have that one modified instead. You just pay the shipping. I just hate to haul it to the scrap yard. Thanks mongoose...I'll keep this in mind. |
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Post by rag on Jan 17, 2013 23:21:45 GMT -5
If you're pulling the engine, check the boss on the engine where the Z-bar is located to make sure that is drilled and tapped as well. Most likely not if it is an engine in an automatic car. I've never seen an Olds engine that wasn't drilled and tapped for the z bar suport. |
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Post by swede64 on Jan 18, 2013 6:58:35 GMT -5
I just bought a M20 trans and i´ll put it in my 64 wagon. Anyone tried the hydralic throwout bearing?
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Post by shane on Jan 19, 2013 5:15:02 GMT -5
I just bought a M20 trans and i´ll put it in my 64 wagon. Anyone tried the hydralic throwout bearing? i know there are a couple threads on that here . I would do a search |
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Post by yammiman on Feb 25, 2013 10:27:43 GMT -5
Does the drive shaft need to be shortened when going from a 2 speed auto to a 4 speed?
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