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Post by stan65cutlass on Sept 15, 2012 11:58:21 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2012 13:34:13 GMT -5
First thing you want to do is stop reading articles and posts on this subject. 99.9% sure you`ve got a 39 block. I`ll get you some pics on how to check this later, just can`t do it right now. There`s only a 3 degree difference per side. The 39 and 45 degree angle is taken from the true centerline. Run an imaginary line up from the crank thru the cam, since the head surfaces of the block are at a 45 degree angle from the centerline, a 45 blocks lifter bores will be at a 90 degree angle to the deck of the block, or perpendicular paralell to the cylinder bore. Now I`ve seen and measured blocks that are slightly off both + and -, I chalk this up to mass production. Check this out, it`ll give you an idea what I`m speaking of, I`ll get pics when I can move around
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2012 15:59:49 GMT -5
Some may argue, or disagree, but this is my way. I`ve talked in length to people that actually understand the principle. It is an accurate way of determining angle. I`ll try and keep the pics in order of 39 vs.45. Make sure your square is square, your straight edge is straight. Using a lifter as a guide won`t work, it`s just too sloppy. 39 block with straight edge snugly laid flat against lifter bore, square laid on block. Square touching bottom, gap INCREASES with rise. 45 block, square stays parallel to straight edge. Using a protractor set at 90 degrees, set the leg of the protractor down the lifter bore, with the leg seated flat against the lifter bore, note the angle of the protractor in relation to the block deck. 1`st pic 39 block 45 block Then I made a crude measurement tool. By understanding the design, it makes sense, that since the lifters are laying on different planes, that there has to be a measurable difference. No surprise, there is. I`ve checked several blocks with this tool, 330`s 400`s 425`s 455`s. It`s never lied The 45 blocks have a wider measurement than the 39`s (lifter bore diameter MUST be taken in to consideration) 39 block with 39 measurement 39 block with 45 measurement 45 block with 45 measurement 45 block with 39 measurement I hope this makes your task a little easier. Don`t believe all that B.S. about drill spots, lifter size, pixy dust and magic potions.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2012 16:14:29 GMT -5
^^Great info!
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Post by stan65cutlass on Sept 15, 2012 16:25:47 GMT -5
Thank you , thank you, ill be checkin that as soon as i get home, appreciate the time you spent, and pics are great
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Post by BR[] on Sept 15, 2012 17:27:03 GMT -5
I'll be hi-jacking the info to the "How To Do It" web page........
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2012 17:47:41 GMT -5
Thank you , thank you, ill be checkin that as soon as i get home, appreciate the time you spent, and pics are great I should have paid a little more attention to your pics. I see the lifters are still in, so I`m gonna guess, so is the cam? Pull the cam. on 45 degree blocks, cam lobe centers are in alignment(obviously) 39 blocks no centers align, NONE! Your only talking a few degrees here, so it`s only obvious when you`ve got a 45 and a 39 cam to compare to each other. Side by side it`s pretty obvious. Laying flat on the bench, front of 45 degree cam facing you, lobes from front to rear #1 thru #16. 5&16 7&14 10&13 12&15. Don`t just eye ball them, use a straight edge. I don`t like this method, centers with this many miles/years on them are tough to determine without having both type cams laid side by each. I should add, this is Mondellos way of determining angle. Like I said, to me it`s crude, cumbersome, and unless you do it everyday, frustrating. Try laying a straight edge from 5 to 16 on what looks like center of a crusty ol` wore out cam with other lobes in the way. Back in the mid 60`s when they made the break from 45 to 39, and olds builders were doing this everyday, they probably got real good at a visual determination. But today, when the normal guy runs in to just a few blocks in his lifetime that are questionable, it can be confusing.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2012 17:53:02 GMT -5
I'll be hi-jacking the info to the "How To Do It" web page........ Kinda crude for that, maybe cleaned up some. (wait so I can re-read it tomorrow, long story) Stan, can I borrow your light, much nicer than my melted piece of shit. But I see you don`t mind painting a screw driver or two, should they get in the way !! Cool
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Post by Big Mike on Sept 15, 2012 21:40:24 GMT -5
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Post by stan65cutlass on Sept 15, 2012 22:49:37 GMT -5
I'll be hi-jacking the info to the "How To Do It" web page........ you work pretty fast senor'
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2012 16:01:50 GMT -5
if there is a mis-match of block cam angle, will the compression test show the error?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2012 17:13:58 GMT -5
if there is a mis-match of block cam angle, will the compression test show the error? I guess I never gave a compression variance much thought. But depending how you installed your cam I`m guessing you would see a slight difference, If you installed it straight up, or ligned up the marks, both banks would be off equal amounts, odd cylinders 6* retarded, even cylinders 6* advanced. But if you degreed the cam on say #1 cylinder then all odd cylinders would be timed correctly and all even cylinders would be 12 degrees advanced. So you would see odd cylinders running a lower compression than even cylinders. But by how much I don`t know. Best way to check your cam for wrong grind is to degree an odd #1 cylinder, and an even cylinder #6. Both should degree same. I`m going to have to give this more thought, retarding your cam will lower the compression slightly. So a cam installed straight up, the odd cylinders would theoretically have a lower compression than the even cylinders. Now if you index the cam you may be raising the even side ?? I`ve edited this thing, it`s really giving me a headache. I think regardless of method of cam install, your always going to have 12 * seperation of banks (retarded/advanced) so your always going to have a compression variance between the two. How measurable it will be I have no clue
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2012 16:06:26 GMT -5
A friend of mine caught some mis-information I gave. I corrected it in "reply #1" above.
The other thing he questioned I won`t correct, as it was purposly written that way for ease of understanding. It has to do with identifying the blocks> I refer to them as 39 and 45 "blocks" If your refering to the actual lifter bore angle to centerline of a particular block, it would be either 42 or 45, if your refering to a cam, it would be 45 or 39. I felt that sticking the 42* in there when refering to a block that takes a 39* cam would just confuse the issue. Most folks only care to know how to distinguish between the two blocks so they know what cam to order, or as in stans case, what he`s selling. No one really cares much about the geometry, unless your getting really anal about max. lift, side load, bla,bla,bla.
BR[], if you would please, change out the perpindicular for parallel. Don`t know what I was thinking, I really do know the difference.
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Post by 425hoard on Apr 12, 2023 7:48:18 GMT -5
Check this out, it`ll give you an idea what I`m speaking of, I`ll get pics when I can move around I'm new to this board, was looking for info on how to tell difference between 39 and 45 degree bank angle block, heads. just let me say there's no reason to go to this extent, this diagram and all these checking tools greatly OVER-COMPLICATES the issue. it boils down to this- one block has less material in the lift bore boss itself than the other. elsewhere on the net is a picture comparing the 2. what people need to know is how to quickly at a glance or 2, tell which one is which. the diagram above also appears to be incorrect. the centerline of both blocks is still directly up the middle, not moved 3 degrees to the left as shown in diagram. only the lifter bore angles are moved. zero centerline of block would be the same on both blocks, and both cams. if that's how "you understand it" then you MISUNDERSTOOD IT, and posted it here and confused everyone by over-thinking it !
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Post by 425hoard on Apr 12, 2023 7:52:55 GMT -5
if you just machined a 12" aluminum, brass, or mild steel dowel, the diameter of the lifter bore itself snug, and placed them in the lifter bore, the one that doesn't point parallel to the piston cylinder bore, is the 39 degree. the one that IS parallel to lifter cylinder bore, is 45 degree. I've never seen a message board dedicated to just one model car and year made...that in itself it kind of strange.
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Post by joepadavano on Apr 12, 2023 8:37:59 GMT -5
if you just machined a 12" aluminum, brass, or mild steel dowel, the diameter of the lifter bore itself snug, and placed them in the lifter bore, the one that doesn't point parallel to the piston cylinder bore, is the 39 degree. the one that IS parallel to lifter cylinder bore, is 45 degree. I've never seen a message board dedicated to just one model car and year made...that in itself it kind of strange. Responding to a thread that's over a decade old is also kind of strange.
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Post by stan65cutlass on Apr 12, 2023 10:23:08 GMT -5
info never gets old joe, just us
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