'65 400 stick crank wanted!

330 is different, you could have your crank drilled cheaper than buying another crank

Drill it, put it in, charge him, and tell him you got another crank. Seriously, does the customer think a judge is going to request the engine be pulled to look at the crank? Wow, people continue to amaze me. Give him what he wants, I guess, just seems like a waste of money. His 401k must be doing a little better than mine.....oh wait, I don't have a 401k. My cars are the 401k, hope the market turns around one day.

Bump - still needed!!

65 is by itself - different stroke!

X2

'68-'69 400s & all 455s are 4.250 stroke

Just a suggestion.
If your contemplating buying a crank that someone "believes" came out of a particular year vehicle, best I.D. the engine first, and get the #`s off the crank. Things have a tendency to get all mixed up and swapped around thru the years.

Take it for what it`worth.
Early big block forged steel crankshafts carried ID #390370 or 384722. This unit, used in the 442's early 400 engines and all 425's, has a stroke of 3.975"
Early series big block, short stroke, all forged. 400, 425's. They have an "L" or "check mark" shaped notch on the drive flange. One leg much longer than the other, one corner, one leg nearly 90' to the OD, other approaches at a gentle angle. Cast will have a thin part line, forged a very wide [1/4 to 1"] line with obvious grind marks where the flash was trimmed.
One handy way to divide Olds V-8's is EARLY

 vs. LATE [1968 and up]. One of the most notable differences in the two groups is in crankshafts. Early engines all had forged steel crankshafts, whereas late engines [almost] all had cast iron crankshafts. Furthermore, the bolt pattern on the rear face, where the flywheel or flexplate attaches, is different. The early pattern has one hole offset CCW about 5 degrees from a perfect hex pattern, whereas the late pattern has that hole, and a second hole as well, offset in the other direction about the same amount. Thus, the two are not interchangeable.


WATCH OUT FOR THIS CRANK, I`ve seen these at a swap meet being sold as a big block because of the marking on the crank

Nodular 350 crank. Notch on back drive flange is "L" or "check mark" shaped like other forged cranks. One leg much longer than the other, one corner, one leg nearly 90' to the OD, other approaches at a gentle angle. Check the casting parting line: wide means forged, narrow means cast. While not forged, this is a very good cast crank. 


Late [1968 and up] big blocks: 400, and 455's. Forged. Mystery crank - reputed to have been used in '68 Toronado, but found in a 1968 low comp. 2bbl fullsize motor. ID number 400943. Notch on back drive flange is "L" or "check mark" shaped, like other forged cranks, but is really like a "J". The notch is just like the "L" notch except for the corner will be nicely rounded where one leg meets the other. Check the casting parting line: wide means forged, narrow means cast. 

Late bb's, 400, and 455's, cast, Nodular iron. Casting #397363 +/- the last digit. Has a big ol' N (or smaller CN) cast onto the side of the front weight. Best 455 crank you can get, unless you count the elusive 'forged' unit mentioned above. Apparently, they came in a lot of 1968 to 1969 400's, and 1968 to 1970 455's. Maybe later engines, too. External ID: back drive flange notch is a tall "C" or wide "U" shape, like every other cast crank, big or little block. 'Course, from the outside, it looks just like

Just to clarify my "I believe" comment, I have parted and built many Olds engines over the years. The only early 400 stick engine that I could recall dismantling, was out of a '67 442 that I bought, wrecked, around 1974. I recently vacated a warehouse that I've rented for ~15 years; I removed over 30 crankshafts that were in racks and took the time to finally check the casting #s and tag them. The crank that I referenced was one of three 400/425 forged steel cranks, but the only one with a pilot bearing provision in it. It wasn't tagged with what vehicle it came out of; hence, the "I believe" comment. I hope that clarifies that issue. Thanks, Bob.

Bob, I apologize if I led you to believe I was targeting you for a possible misleading description of your crankshaft. I realize you do sell quite extensively on several sites and are quite knowledgeable. My only intent was to caution a potential buyer on presuming the crankshaft in question was actually correct based on your original post as to make, model, year of vehicle. Your post reveals the car, a 67, was wrecked in 74, a lot of things can happen to a car in 6 or 7 years. Your post that explains your vast inventory of parts, and how you took the time to check the casting #`s and tag the items, probably should have been your 1`st post.