Poly or rubber bushings?

All that and they squeeeeeeek like crazy!!!!!!!!! Drives you nuts! I have done poly and rubber in different cars in the past. I will only do rubber in a street car from now on. JMO.

I've heard all these symptoms... potential for binding at the extremes of travel impacting handling in autocross and road course applications. I also "believe" that the squeaking of poly bushing was from materials used in older designs, and that the newer style bushings are impregnated with something to alleviate the squeaks. But that could just be marketing BS. I'll find out since I installed poly bushings when I re-installed the rear end.

Now here's an interesting thought... if poly bushings end up being too annoying from a "ride experience" perspective, if someone were to install a set of any of the aftermarket adjustable upper and lower control arms, should they knock out the poly bushing and install a rubber bushing in its place? Hmmmm...

Here`s the way I look at it. Everyone has there preference on most everything. Poly vs. rubber is a control, ride choice. Poly will control better than rubber, but not noticeable enough to warrant the increased price, or loss of ride quality for street use. If your road racing and feel you need the increased control go poly. G.M. has used rubber in there street performance cars for years, the cars were engineered for rubber, perform quite well for decades of use. Non graphite poly will squeak. A precaution to take is to install any bushing correctly. Poly and rubber have travel issues, poly is less tolerant to travel, after your new bushings are installed, lets say in the rear control arms, before tightening the mounting hardware to sandwich the bushings in the brackets, make sure your vehicle is at the correct ride height, or you will load the bushing and create a stressed/loaded bushing. Now someones gonna say they read where you should tighten the bushings 2 3 or 4 degrees before or after ride height, this is true if your really trying to zero in your body lift or plant at launch. But I believe the original question was referring to STREET driving, the correct reply is RUBBER, less you want to feel every tar mark, concrete crack, pebble on the road. I think by now most members here, know how I feel about these "Hi-Per" aftermarket parts being installed on a car that will 99% of the time be driven from car show to car show, and a cruise down the boulevard once and awhile. They are, for the most part, parking lot bragging conversation. (like my dicks bigger than yours) But unlike a big dick, these super-parts will seldom be used to there potential in street application.

To reply to the original question !! Use rubber, install correctly, enjoy a nicely controlled, quiet ride.

MY 2 CENTS

Frankly in the case of my vert(aka Rustly mother fucker) as Postcar knows (as the front of my vert frame came from his post car) the front and rear control arms were sad looking to say the least. After painting the fronts looked like shit and the rears were rusted beyond use. So what do you do, replace with better old stock items, or put better than old technology on. Well, I went with the latter, hence I gain a little better ride and control up front, more header clearance from the mounting and shape of the upper control arms, and some super strong rear control arms. Did I need them, probably not, but if your going to replace your shit, and you don't care if its anal original, why not go with better than original. I'm basically a CMF but I waited and searched and founds deals on everything so>>it is what it is.

Your certainly not talking bout me, must be your Mongoose, I don't have no Pud pressure problems and I can't go in parades, my car would overheat.

You want to make sure the reinforcement goes all the way to the end, I have seen many of the stock reinforced ones that actually cracked where the reinforcement ended. If I remember some years reinforcement are longer than others.