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Post by otis1965 on Feb 23, 2010 19:03:49 GMT -5
Hello I notice in the pictures of you car when finished that you have added an electric fan how does it work did it do much for cooling and was it much of a problem to install . thank you
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Post by bubbasz1 on Feb 23, 2010 19:24:55 GMT -5
Ramz, he must be talking about the screaming red machine. BTW, when we pulling that cam out.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2010 10:55:41 GMT -5
I have used a pusher electric fan in my air conditioned cars to help the A/C work better and keep the motor cool in traffic. The belt driven seven blade fan with thermostatic clutch works well at road speed, but insufficient at idle. I bought the largest diameter electric fan to fit the A/C condenser, seems like was 14 or 16 inches. Could also go with two smaller diameter units.
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Post by otis1965 on Feb 24, 2010 13:57:49 GMT -5
thank you for the reply that is the problem that i am having. i think that may solve my problem
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Post by RAM Z on Feb 24, 2010 14:45:23 GMT -5
Ive a SPAL fan on the front of the rad. It was the only one I could find that fit in between the rad core and the hood latch brace. Not much room there. Got it from Summit.
I use it in traffic if I am sitting still for a while (Woodward Dream Cruise). Seems to work at holding a temp but not cooling it off.
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Post by 1965f85 on Feb 24, 2010 20:56:04 GMT -5
I have twin Pullers on mine.... It never gets over 180 degrees, even in traffic and I have a 13:1 motor. Of course it helps when you have a very large capacity Radiator.
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Post by otis1965 on Feb 24, 2010 21:55:56 GMT -5
does any one have an idea why these cars seem to so hot ? i have changed every thing on mine that i can think of and it gets warm in slow traffic in hot weather
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Post by mongoose on Feb 25, 2010 6:11:06 GMT -5
Ive a SPAL fan on the front of the rad. It was the only one I could find that fit in between the rad core and the hood latch brace. Not much room there. Got it from Summit. I use it in traffic if I am sitting still for a while (Woodward Dream Cruise). Seems to work at holding a temp but not cooling it off. What CFM does the fan produce? I'm going to have to go with a pusher fan myself. I'm putting the car together with a taller waterpump (aluminum water pump and all the other shiny bracketry and components of the Mondello system), so an engine driven fan won't clear, nor will either single or dual puller fans. I thought I'd probably have to install twin pusher fans because of the hood latch brace, but you managed to find one that slips in between. How did you mount the fan? I'm going to use a Griffin aluminum radiator, so I don't want to mount the fan with plastic ties through the core.
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Post by mongoose on Feb 25, 2010 6:15:27 GMT -5
I have twin Pullers on mine.... It never gets over 180 degrees, even in traffic and I have a 13:1 motor. Of course it helps when you have a very large capacity Radiator. How much clearence do you have between accessory pulleys and the high capacity radiator? I know my lack of clearence isn't helped by the Mondello "bracket and accessory system", but when mocking up the core support and Griffen radiator, I only have 2 1/4" between the fins of the radiator, and the aluminum pullies.
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Post by oldsproject on Feb 25, 2010 20:23:57 GMT -5
I'm sure you guys have already been through this but originally my 425 had overheating issues when in traffic on hot days. I tried alot of different things including a new four core rad from rock auto. The thing that finally made the differance was inexpensive and easy (a no-brainer). I changed the thermostat from a 165 to a 210 (I think it was a 210??). Didn't even think about going to a higher one until someone suggested it. Theory is that the higher the range the less water circulates. The less water circulates the better your radiator works cooling the water. Ya learn something every day Made a HUGE differance.
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Post by 1965f85 on Feb 25, 2010 22:43:31 GMT -5
You guys can also try the FlowKooler Water pumps too, Part #'s 1774, 1775 or 1776.... just depends on what accessories you have... these water pumps are aluminum and flow about 30% more water.... Made a significant difference when I added this to my motor.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2010 18:42:02 GMT -5
I have done some research on this topic since I will be making some major heat with my blown motor. I have found guys have had great success in dropping the motor temp by just running some return lines from the back of each cylinder head to the water neck.
Some other things to consider are: 1. running an aluminum radiator. 2. Puller fans are more efficient then pusher fans if space permits. 3. The rad. cap pressure can be manipulated to change the operating temp. I think for every degree you increase the pressure it changes the boiling point of the water by 6-7 degrees. 4. Temp sensor placement is crucial if you are running electric fan(s) that kick on / off at a specific temp.
I used an alum. Be Cool radiator with twin pusher fans with an adjustable t-stat switch. I fabricated the brackets out of some aluminum channel that can be picked up from Home Depot. I will take some pics of my set-up once I get a chance.
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