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Post by island65cruiser on May 11, 2022 8:37:08 GMT -5
Just finished a 4 wheel disk brake conversion with the Right Stuff detailing complete kit. Really great parts, everything fit together perfectly, and easily. You do need to turn down the axle hubs just a touch to clear the disk brake hats, and the brake line kit needs a little finish bending to fit perfectly, but great value, and a quick job. The Proportioning valve is too close to the Horn relay on the apron, and that needs to be moved a couple of inches to clear, no big deal. I would recommend this kit if you are considering a brake upgrade.
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Post by 65droptop on May 16, 2022 6:03:52 GMT -5
Wow! Great info! Any chance you may be able to post some pics and part numbers? Thanks!
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Post by rallye469 on May 16, 2022 8:50:02 GMT -5
Nice job! I just finished adding there disc brakes upfront on my club coupe frame. I like those folks. Nice to deal with too!  |
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Post by island65cruiser on May 16, 2022 20:07:48 GMT -5
If you PM me with a phone number I'll send you some pictures. As for part numbers, Just look in the Jegs catalog for the complete kit for a 64-67 A Body. Jegs doesn't list the brake line kit, I got that directly from Right Stuff. I bought the brake kit from Jegs because they give you free shipping and discounts on big orders, and no bullshit returns if there's a problem. The kit has a lot of OEM spec parts in it, like Cadillac calipers, but hunting around salvage yards just isn't my thing anymore. Everything in one shipment, everything fits, and no missing parts. I don't think the whole conversion took two hours. Totally agree with rallye469, I called Right Stuff twice for advice, and they are really nice people to deal with.
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Post by dads442 on Jul 17, 2023 14:57:08 GMT -5
Was thinking about up grading my 65 holiday to 4 wheel disk brakes also and using the Right Stuff kit...one question though do you need to purchase longer wheel studs for the rear wheels since I believe the old drum brake ones are 7/16 x 20 x 1-1/2" long and the rotors would be thicker so you would at least need 1-3/4" length to gain back the difference...my rear axle is in a shop getting some repair so I don't have access to it...thanks
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Post by island65cruiser on Jul 29, 2023 11:53:52 GMT -5
Yes. You should use longer studs because of the disk and because you may need to put 1/8 inch spacers to make the rims clear your calipers. Press them in if you can. If you pull them in, lube them up with anti-seize, and don't use an impact, they will stretch and can then snap when you torque them. I had to go back in after the fact and change the studs. My 15 x 7 Wheel Vintiques OEM replacements hit the calipers where the centers are welded to the rims. For safety sake, I did not want to take material off either the rim or the caliper. 1/8 spacers are thin enough that the wheel is still "hub centric". Also, you should measure the ID of the disk hat, and the OD of the axles. Some of the 8.2 axle flanges are too large the fit in the hat. I had to turn one down to fit. Right stuff does mention the possibility in their literature. The results are worth the work. My car stops like a brad new car with anti-lock brakes.
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Post by dads442 on Oct 11, 2023 19:07:36 GMT -5
couple of questions for island 65 cruiser and rally 469, or anyone else, I purchase the Right Stuff kit for front and rear brakes...installing the rear brakes...there is a round spring that fits around the caliper piston and hooks to the inboard brake pad...on one caliper it was just laying in the bottom of the package...on the other rear caliper it was hooked in what appears to be a groove around the piston just behind the front edge, but only barely in one spot and also hooked to the inside brake pad...is this spring supposed to be hooked in the groove all the way around the piston then hooked onto the pad? or just in the one spot opposite from where it hooks to the pad? (brake pad Dampener spring???)
next question on the rear brakes...the caliper appears to be supported by just the two slider bolts that pass through caliper and the provided bracket that is bolted to the rear axle, much the same as the photo of the front brake installation at the beginning of this post, is that correct or am I missing something...photos would help....thanks
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Post by island65cruiser on Nov 2, 2023 7:08:56 GMT -5
Hi, the thin little spring wire does go around the caliper puck, and helps to align the brake pad. Yes, it is a pain in the butt, and yes, it seems there is always one caliper where it falls out as you install it. Consider it a test of faith! I think it has to be there to prevent brake pad noise when not braking.
Yes, the Caliper is supported only by those two bolts, and must slide freely on them, If it is tight, I suggest polishing either the bolt surface, or the caliper hole with some fine Emory cloth and oil, then wipe before assembly. You could put some grease on a rag and lightly grease the parts, but don't use enough that it can run out onto brake parks when hot.on the axle housing bolts as needed. still having no problems with my set up after about 500 miles.
Hope this helps.
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Post by island65cruiser on Nov 2, 2023 7:13:42 GMT -5
One more thing. While you are at it, put new brake lines on the frame. Right stuff sells a kit in either stainless or mild steel that is cheap, and easy to install. The disks operate on much higher pressure than the drum brakes, the old corroded lines can fail.
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Post by dads442 on Nov 13, 2023 14:34:08 GMT -5
island cruiser...thanks for the info...haven't gotten as far as new brake lines yet, I do have that on the bucket list along with new fuel lines, got the spring clip figured out on the caliper, next question, have all the parts installed on the rear axle except the parking brake cable, where the cable passes thru the bracket that bolts to the caliper, there is a grove in the end of the cable sheath that looks like there should be a retainer clip to hold the cable end in place...all other kits I have seen so far ether have a spring clip at this point or a finger type spring clip like on drum brakes, spoke to Jeggs and RPUI Techs and they say you do not need any clip as the tension on the cable once properly adjusted holds it in place, has this been your experience?...i have a photo of the parking brake installation on a 65 Chevelle that uses the exact same kit and cables and it clearly shows a spring clip at the a fore mentioned location...tension only at this point just doesn't seem right...and why would there be a grove manufacture in the cable end for a clip if one is not needed...any help much appreciated...
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Post by island65cruiser on Feb 10, 2024 8:54:24 GMT -5
Sorry for slow reply, been moving and renovating new home. I had the same reaction, it seems like there should be a clip. I don't think it would hurt to add one, and I'm sure you can get them at any "real" parts store like NAPA. Every once in a while I hear a clunk or snap when I engage the parking brake. I think that might be the cable housing hanging up on an edge as the tension pulls it into place. Works fine anyway. Still really happy with the brakes.
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