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Post by jims442 on Nov 15, 2020 14:07:03 GMT -5
I think this is right up joepadavano's alley, DO the blinkers go through the headlight switch,when I pull the park lights on my right blinker light in the dash comes on,when I hit left blinker left rear blinker blinks and both front blinkers blink,hit right blinker front right blinker blinks and no rear right blinker and just to add to the mix, when I push on the brakes only have left brake light and bulb is good on right.This seams to have just started and all wiring is tight and in good order under dash.If anyone has a idea let me know I hate electrical issues
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Post by john442 on Nov 15, 2020 14:23:40 GMT -5
Just curious since I hate electrical issues myself do the lights all work normally but go haywire when using turn signals?
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Post by jims442 on Nov 15, 2020 15:00:32 GMT -5
Yes,everything else is fine
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Post by bogie442 on Nov 15, 2020 16:30:07 GMT -5
Have you checked all the grounds. these old cars depended on the the ground wires at the lamp and with out the grounds the circuits can do very weird things.
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Post by jims442 on Nov 15, 2020 17:30:27 GMT -5
That being said,which ground would i check. The motor is grounded to the frame and all the grounds I'm aware of seam fine
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Post by joepadavano on Nov 16, 2020 8:25:29 GMT -5
The turn signal circuit is unrelated to the park light circuit, EXCEPT at the 1157 bulbs themselves. The two independent filaments in the bulb have a common ground. When you lose ground at the bulb or socket, the park light circuit seeks ground through the turn/brake circuit, and hilarity ensues. At least one of your sockets has a bad ground. This may not be a ground wire, it may be where the socket is crimped to the light housing. I had that problem in my 62 wagon, where the steel socket was crimped to the aluminum reflector that had steel bolts swaged into it. Galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and steel parts killed the ground path (which was through the bolts to the bracket). I ended up having to solder a ground wire directly to the bulb to get it to work.
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Post by jims442 on Nov 16, 2020 20:07:57 GMT -5
so would that mean I need to check all the lights or just rear and front park lights ?
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Post by island65cruiser on Nov 17, 2020 0:28:33 GMT -5
My two cents: I would check the ground of each and every light housing separately, at the housing. disconnect the wire from the harness, use a small separate 12v battery with jumper wires, ground to the body or housing bolt, red to the hot wire. I would bet Joe is right, you have a dead socket somewhere. You can sometimes correct it by soldering a ground wire to the socket, and attaching to the body or replace the socket.
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Post by jims442 on Nov 17, 2020 7:54:37 GMT -5
Thanks for all the input,will get on it this weekend and let you know what I find
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Post by jims442 on Nov 20, 2020 19:16:42 GMT -5
I'm wondering, I installed a new turn signal switch in the steering column a while back could something in there cause this problem?
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Post by island65cruiser on Nov 20, 2020 20:14:22 GMT -5
A bad ground anywhere in the light system can cause a back feed through the bulbs. Isolate each component and test individually. So can a wire plugged into the wrong circuit. Get a wiring diagram for reference. Good luck
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Post by jims442 on Nov 20, 2020 21:09:56 GMT -5
I under stand what your saying,I'm not sure how to do that.I'm very capable of doing it I've built this car from frame off, electrical I now little,I have a 12v battery ,if you could explain to me how to do it I will do it, your explanation above I don't really understand thanks.Jim
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Post by jims442 on Nov 21, 2020 18:40:19 GMT -5
Update,after taking everything apart and testing everything,still had the same problem so I traced wires back to fuse box and gave them a good yank out of anger and surprise problem solved, don't know what I did but its fixed and I'm not questioning it
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Post by island65cruiser on Nov 22, 2020 11:27:42 GMT -5
Probably a bad ground wire connector in the fuse block or the harness plug. Could also be corrosion on the connections. Problem may come back, but at least you know where to look first! "Percussion maintenance", the last resort but sometimes brute force works miracles. Whatever works is OK with me!
For future reference, to "isolate" an electrical component, disconnect it from the power source in the harness, and supply power from a separate source, like a separate battery. Either run a jumper with a ground wire to the chassis or body and ground the battery to the chassis or body, or preferably, take the part off the car and run a ground wire from the part directly to negative on the battery. That way the part is isolated from the car's electrical system. I always check my components, especially aftermarket or used parts that way before I install them so if they are no good, I don't waste the labor installing them to find out.
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Post by jims442 on Nov 22, 2020 20:41:25 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help,I hope it doesn't come back.With these old cars,even though mines all rebuilt its always something, thats why I enjoy the journey
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