Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2013 19:41:39 GMT -5
My car is a 1965 442 Holiday Coupe. This project started out as “clean it up and paint it”, but snowballed into the 9 year project it is currently. If I could go back to when I bought it, I probably would have done a factory original restoration on it as it has 39,929 original miles and the original protecto-plate. Unfortunately, when I bought the car, it was mostly apart and I’m missing the build sheet and window sticker. I also have the numbers matching 400, M-21, and 3.55:1 posi 8.2” ten bolt rear, original wires, all of the chrome, air cleaner, etc. That being said, I am now building a street strip car out of it. For whatever reason, I don’t like the term “resto-mod”, so I am calling it a “day two muscle car”. I am hoping to have the car look mostly stock from the outside with steel wheels, etc., but be a wolf in a slightly less ominous wolf’s clothing.
My dad talked me into “doing it right the first time”, so we stripped it to frame and left no bolt unturned. There were a few soft spots in the frame and the rear cross-member was bent, so we fixed them. Looking back, I should have gotten the frame powder coated, but I decided to paint it. The only thing original on the chassis now is the frame, front control arms, and front sway bar. I added a Camaro power steering box and all new front end components with poly bushings and GM disk brakes. Out back I decided on a Ford 9” with Moser 31 spline axles, big bearing N housing, Daytona pinion housing, Detroit Locker ratchet posi, and 3.70 Richmond gears. It’s all held in place with E-brock tubular lower and adjustable upper control arms with tie-in bars. It also has rear disk brakes with GM metric calipers. I am currently working on designing a rear anti-roll bar and fuel tank that mounts into the frame.
I am building a .030" over 69 455” (461”) for it. Stock 4.250” N crank, 4340 H-Beam rods, KB +14.4cc forged pistons with floating pins and file fit rings, .005" deck, .040” head gaskets, ported and filled C heads (74cc +/-), oversized swirl cut and back cut valves, hydraulic flat tappet cam, .353” lobe lift, 247* duration @ .050, 108 lobe separation, HS 1.7 roller rockers (measured at a true 1.77 ratio for .625” valve lift), dual springs, 3/8” pushrods, ported and split divider E-brock Performer intake, 850cfm E-brock 1910 Q-Jet carb (looking at switching to a quickfuel carb), Kooks 2" primary - 3-1/2" collector headers, polished stainless 3” exhaust with x pipe and cutouts. I am currently working on designing and fabricating aluminum brackets and other components.
I do not have a transmission picked out at this point, but my goal is a clutch assisted DR-4 or G101A with a v-gate shifter and an RST clutch. More than likely I will end up with a Super T-10 and a single disk clutch for more friendly street use though.
The body of the car is solid and needs minimal work to make it straight. I have to do some work to the floor pans and rear wheel houses. I am hoping to start the body pretty soon. I haven’t decided on a color yet. The car was originally provincial white, but I do not think that will be my choice. The dark red interior needs a little work, but the dash and steering wheel are in good shape. I want to fabricate a new dash face for round gauges. It is going to be set up like a radio delete car with no antenna as well.
I decided to start over on my car profie, and I will be continuing to post new progress as I go. Thanks for looking.
My dad talked me into “doing it right the first time”, so we stripped it to frame and left no bolt unturned. There were a few soft spots in the frame and the rear cross-member was bent, so we fixed them. Looking back, I should have gotten the frame powder coated, but I decided to paint it. The only thing original on the chassis now is the frame, front control arms, and front sway bar. I added a Camaro power steering box and all new front end components with poly bushings and GM disk brakes. Out back I decided on a Ford 9” with Moser 31 spline axles, big bearing N housing, Daytona pinion housing, Detroit Locker ratchet posi, and 3.70 Richmond gears. It’s all held in place with E-brock tubular lower and adjustable upper control arms with tie-in bars. It also has rear disk brakes with GM metric calipers. I am currently working on designing a rear anti-roll bar and fuel tank that mounts into the frame.
I am building a .030" over 69 455” (461”) for it. Stock 4.250” N crank, 4340 H-Beam rods, KB +14.4cc forged pistons with floating pins and file fit rings, .005" deck, .040” head gaskets, ported and filled C heads (74cc +/-), oversized swirl cut and back cut valves, hydraulic flat tappet cam, .353” lobe lift, 247* duration @ .050, 108 lobe separation, HS 1.7 roller rockers (measured at a true 1.77 ratio for .625” valve lift), dual springs, 3/8” pushrods, ported and split divider E-brock Performer intake, 850cfm E-brock 1910 Q-Jet carb (looking at switching to a quickfuel carb), Kooks 2" primary - 3-1/2" collector headers, polished stainless 3” exhaust with x pipe and cutouts. I am currently working on designing and fabricating aluminum brackets and other components.
I do not have a transmission picked out at this point, but my goal is a clutch assisted DR-4 or G101A with a v-gate shifter and an RST clutch. More than likely I will end up with a Super T-10 and a single disk clutch for more friendly street use though.
The body of the car is solid and needs minimal work to make it straight. I have to do some work to the floor pans and rear wheel houses. I am hoping to start the body pretty soon. I haven’t decided on a color yet. The car was originally provincial white, but I do not think that will be my choice. The dark red interior needs a little work, but the dash and steering wheel are in good shape. I want to fabricate a new dash face for round gauges. It is going to be set up like a radio delete car with no antenna as well.
I decided to start over on my car profie, and I will be continuing to post new progress as I go. Thanks for looking.