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Post by kmkjr65442 on Sept 20, 2008 18:38:18 GMT -5
I have been reading some about guys flipping the bar over and reattaching under the A-frame. What does this gain?
Ken
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2008 11:39:36 GMT -5
correct me if i am wrong, but i believe it lets the suspension move and react a little more freely... but i also think guys are using 70's camaro and firebird swaybars to do it, so it could be for mounting since it is from a different car? the f body swaybars are bigger in diameter.
if you are drag racing a lot of guys take the swaybar links off or just let them loose so the suspension can move freely.
the rear swaybars arent the best on these cars as the mount from control to control arm limiting their movement. i am not going to put the stock rear swaybar back on, i am considering an h&r bar or one of the new hotchicks bars possibly... or maybe just making my own.
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Sept 21, 2008 11:57:44 GMT -5
I took the original sway bar and mounted it to the axle tubes by fabricating a mount and then using two 3 inch tailpipe clamps (two clamps each side). This allowed the use of an attachment mount purchased at the local parts store. I then fabicated adapter brackets for the sway bar ends where it attached to the control arms. A drop link was used to go from the frame ( simle "L" bracket) to the sway bar. This totally changed the functioning of the original bar......the rear end of my 442 responds like a go-kart now. So that is why I am looking into changing the front bar. I suggest making your own and getting it off of the control arms.......it really does make a handling difference. And it is so easy to do....my entire rear suspension , in my opinion is how GM should have built.
Ken
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Sept 21, 2008 12:54:45 GMT -5
Just a side note.......most don't know the changes I have made to my suspension. RAM Z other site shows my car in the Sept Issue. These changes are functioning perfectly, I have pulled my 31foot RV (9900 pounds) with this setup. Rear end is a '71 ford nine inch 3:25:1. It is 1 1/2 inch wider than than the original GM unit. 3/4 inch wider stance each side. Not even an issue. The axles lugs were removed, welded by me, machined and redrilled to accept my wheels. Absolutely no issues of any kind. Springs are located outward as far as possible for stability. The springs are located and mounted onto the weight distributing trailer hitch, directly accepting any weight from the RV. The chassis is there mainly for the pull ( Maxx Tugg). I started with the original control arm setup. To much "wiggle" in the suspension. Now I am getting another vehicle for this chore in the near future. So, additional work will include utilizing frame boxing to allow the front spring mount to be recessed into the frame. The spring shackles will be replaced with roller slides. This will eliminate even more side to side movement that is allowed by shackles and bushings. Control arms just allow alot of side to side movement. This will allow me to use the suspension as designed but bring the ride heigth down in the rear to a more factory stance. I would anticipate that the ride and handling should be enhanced. I do believe we all have the ability to personalize our cars, and if it is done right and looks like it was done by the factory that built them......its a good thing. I get 10 miles per gallon pulling my RV....TH400 trans specifcally built for towing, and 2.5 inch exhaust through FlowMasters that SOUND OFF . I wouldn't have it any other way.
So again I say to Oldspeed442, just make your own. Afterall you can always go back and use original equipment if your not content with your efforts of "making my own".
Ken
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2008 15:04:07 GMT -5
this is what mine is going to look like...   |
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Post by BR[] on Sept 26, 2008 17:57:37 GMT -5
oldspeed442............ Tell me about the Kooks Headers.. Do they fit without modifications, or do they drag, rub or hit anything? What size are the tubes? Finding headers thay fit without any problems has always been a problem on the 65's, so if you can shed any light for those that are looking, it would be appreciated.
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Post by kmkjr65442 on Sept 26, 2008 18:24:34 GMT -5
That is exactly how mine is....and it works great.
Ken
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2008 8:41:16 GMT -5
oldspeed442............ Tell me about the Kooks Headers.. Do they fit without modifications, or do they drag, rub or hit anything? What size are the tubes? Finding headers thay fit without any problems has always been a problem on the 65's, so if you can shed any light for those that are looking, it would be appreciated. this has been moved to BRO's new header thread. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2008 9:12:08 GMT -5
;D
.....so...... thingy= d..k!!!!! Just click on the link, when the error msg comes up, delete"thingy" & insert "D!CK"! I tried, it works & THOSE ARE AWESOME HEADERS!!!!!
Ralph
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Post by RAM Z on Sept 29, 2008 9:26:06 GMT -5
I was wondering what thingymiller was. There is a list of word the forum censors, I am fixing that right now.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Sept 29, 2008 20:35:15 GMT -5
Same headers I have, I will no doubt have to do some customizing to mine since I raised my upper and lower exhaust walls an 1/8 inch for flow, should be interesting to see how they fit.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 30, 2008 5:17:09 GMT -5
I was wondering what thingymiller was. There is a list of word the forum censors, I am fixing that right now.  Ralph |
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![BR[] Avatar](http://aliquippaoutlaws.homestead.com/Bro442_ANIM_150.gif)
