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Post by stan65cutlass on Apr 22, 2011 11:25:51 GMT -5
holey moley, out with the bad, where are you getting new metal? donor car?
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Post by bubbasz1 on May 6, 2011 20:50:37 GMT -5
That looks like just too much fun.
Keep up the good work, and another one will be brought back to life.
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Post by bil on May 7, 2011 0:44:16 GMT -5
Quick note-make sure you check and diagonal the quarters.Mine had been hit just below the spot in your last pic.it wasn't til we were test fitting the doors that we found it.That door wouldn't line up right,and was driving us crazy.The top of the jamb had been pushed in just enough to mess us up,quick fix once we figured it out. ---bil
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Post by alldun5 on May 7, 2011 7:26:33 GMT -5
Thanks Bil, I will have him look at that. Quick note-make sure you check and diagonal the quarters.Mine had been hit just below the spot in your last pic.it wasn't til we were test fitting the doors that we found it.That door wouldn't line up right,and was driving us crazy.The top of the jamb had been pushed in just enough to mess us up,quick fix once we figured it out. ---bil |
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Post by alldun5 on May 7, 2011 7:33:03 GMT -5
One of my favorite finds on this car was the bottom, passengers side fender bolt, that goes straight up, just in front of the door. The captive nut had broken loose, so the bolt would just spin freely, but not come out. The previous owner, in his infinate wisdom, notched the fender to go around that bolt and then ran a 4" lag screw into the body to hold it on. That has been fixed. A little "u" shaped plasma cut, into the lower side of the cowl. Bent it out for access, and reattached the nut. Bent it back, welded it in, and ground it flush.
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Post by stan65cutlass on May 7, 2011 20:15:10 GMT -5
good tip, my nut is loose on mine too, wondered how to get in there and fix it  |
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Post by BR[] on May 8, 2011 7:52:40 GMT -5
I would have loved to have had some step by step close-up pics to show others exactly how you did it.
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Post by alldun5 on May 8, 2011 8:48:20 GMT -5
Maybe Stan will document his, if he tries it. The U cut is upside down, or I guess it could be an n cut. I might have some pics later. The guy doing the welding is taking them as he goes. I wont know until I get the film and get it developed.
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Post by stan65cutlass on May 10, 2011 22:05:50 GMT -5
looking good, good metal around those wheelwells, nice
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Post by bubbasz1 on May 11, 2011 4:54:46 GMT -5
Came out nice and it didn't take him any time at all!!
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Post by RAM Z on May 11, 2011 6:21:51 GMT -5
Looking good.
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Post by slowolds on May 11, 2011 10:32:12 GMT -5
Rick needed a 'vert so he could take 3 6 foot tall dogs for a ride!!!!!!!!!!
I saw this car before the work and I am really impressed (even more that it came in under the quote).
Won't be long now at your pace.
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Post by red71 on May 11, 2011 15:32:50 GMT -5
wow, that looks good. you got a deal on all that metal work I would say. but he for got to put the roof back on  . that will be blast to drive w/ that drive train, and the fuel mileage a plus. |
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Post by realfast65 on Jun 7, 2011 15:46:23 GMT -5
Looking good, I see you have went modern on the drive train any plans on upgrading the suspension?
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Post by alldun5 on Jun 8, 2011 21:06:27 GMT -5
Yes, I'm looking at options. Currently all stock arms, but with energy suspensions bushings, and stock springs.
Looking at tubular arms, rear sway bar, and larger front sway bar. No decision yet. Any suggestions?
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Post by realfast65 on Jun 9, 2011 7:03:06 GMT -5
PM sent with info
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Post by dolzinnig on Jun 9, 2011 17:50:04 GMT -5
Post it up so we can all read it. I can't comment on aftermarket arms, etc, but when speaking to the spring guru at Eaton Detroit he said the poly bushings would stiffen it up like a larger sway bar and recommended trying it that way before changing to larger sway bars. Going to give that a shot. |
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Post by realfast65 on Jun 21, 2011 12:21:52 GMT -5
Post it up so we can all read it. I can't comment on aftermarket arms, etc, but when speaking to the spring guru at Eaton Detroit he said the poly bushings would stiffen it up like a larger sway bar and recommended trying it that way before changing to larger sway bars. Going to give that a shot. All I said was basically call Marcus at scandc.com/new/He is a suspension guru. If you want your 65 to handle like it is on rails but not be so stiiff that it looses it street ability I think they have one of the best products as far as bang for your buck. They are using mostly www.spcperformance.com/ parts. Changing the front geometery is one of the most important parts of making a 65 handle and control better. |
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Post by oldstata on Apr 22, 2014 20:28:43 GMT -5
Looks good
That hood looks pretty straight
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Post by Big Mike on Apr 29, 2014 18:22:32 GMT -5
Looks real good. Looking forward to the finished product.
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