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Post by BR[] on Dec 7, 2011 22:19:26 GMT -5
I wish you would have bought that sled long ago ......... I sold a perfect (and I mean PERFECT) red one to a drag racer from Ohio, who wanted the plastic dash strictly for the weight. I also gave away the complete backend chrome set to a kid that didn't have anything at all. Now they become rare and desirable.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2011 13:38:28 GMT -5
Great info! Thanks for the pics. My dash is warped across the top and I had no idea if it would be repairable. I also have a badly cracked padded dash I can cut apart. Thanks again.
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Post by bubbasz1 on Dec 8, 2011 18:50:47 GMT -5
Started on the dashes. I have the original and I have another I bought from a dude in Chicago. Both are cracked in half on the bottom. The original is warped bad in the top corner, the other not so much. I figured I better get a dash face to fit them to while I heat them up. Nick came thru with a scrap piece for me. Bubs came thru with the heat. The padded dashes have a steel core, while the plastic is just that, plastic. So they warp, break, crack etc. In order to get the original shape back along the top I cut apart two padded dashes. I used parts of the steel core to reform the plastic in the shape of the steel. I heated up the plastic, clamped on the steel piece, heated and tightened until the warp was gone. The Chicago piece is done and ready for plastic work. The original is in the jig right now. It had a major whooptiedoo in the upper A pillar corner. Plus it fits like shit, probably due to the warping. I dont know if its fixable yet. Ive noticed that these dashes dont like to fit back on the dash plates. Many holes do not line up and its probably due to them warping. When fitted there is a 1/8in gap between the broke pieces. Even with the Chicago dash back where it needs to be there is a gap. Ill fill the gap instead of butting it back together. I dont want this thing to crack somewhere else because its a tight fit as it is. Did I mention there was a $20.00 rental fee on the heat gun.  $30.00 if you use high heat setting.
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Post by RAM Z on Dec 9, 2011 15:24:52 GMT -5
Youre going to get a huge check out of this Jeff. I basically sacrificed the original dash because it was really warped and I got it too hot and made a low spot. While messing around with the heat gun I found that I could make the sag along the front edge go away. If you heat the top side it will make the dash go back to its original shape. I watched as the gap at the crack closed and the sag disappeared. Bad thing is I dont think I can keep the shape because it retracts while it cools. I am trying this right now on the now "good" dash and I bent the piss out of the other to see if it will retract to a new point. I doubt this trick is going to work. Any ideas if it doesnt? 
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Post by stan65cutlass on Dec 9, 2011 18:15:17 GMT -5
can you put the dash face back in before it cools, what about heating spots while the dash face keeps it from shrinking
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2011 19:13:59 GMT -5
Do you think an over correction would help? So when the dash retracts it comes back to a correct position?
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Post by RAM Z on Dec 9, 2011 22:42:41 GMT -5
You would think so but it can only flex so much. So far it keeps going back to where it was. It sucks because when heated up it gets so flat and it fits the dash face perfectly. I even tried heating it then cooling real fast (tossed it in the snow). Didnt work.
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Post by RAM Z on Dec 13, 2011 22:34:46 GMT -5
Dash is now one piece again. And its a TIGHT fit on the dash face. Even with it being super tight two of the screw holes dont line up. I remember when I took the dash out of the car there were some screws missing, probably never had them. I used Plastex to fix the crack, added some fiberglass to strengthen it then filled the top with epoxy putty.   
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Post by RAM Z on Dec 14, 2011 13:14:33 GMT -5
Major side crack fixed and reinforced with fiberglass.  Every crack is fixed (for now) and its ready for this...  SEM Texture Coating. Spray it on and it replicates the grain of the plastic. Just have to get the spray distance down, too close its too much, too far and its not enough. Once its on sand it with some 400 to flatten it out and its ready to paint. The above pic is the plain backside of the dash. Just a test to see what it looks likes. I think its going to work out fine.
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Post by 66trakpak on Dec 14, 2011 14:50:33 GMT -5
dash is looking good jasen. thats one piece i got lucky on. got a mint plastic dash thru mike richards. just have to paint it. maybe i will do the same on my old one, just to have for a spare. can never have enough club coupe specific parts  .except for that damn impossibleto find floor mat 
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Post by RAM Z on Dec 15, 2011 13:24:09 GMT -5
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Post by club442 on Dec 15, 2011 19:22:25 GMT -5
looks real good,nice job
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Post by Big Mike on Dec 15, 2011 19:40:51 GMT -5
Looks really good, you could do that as a way to make extra cash for your resto.
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Post by RAM Z on Dec 15, 2011 21:38:43 GMT -5
Jeff would start charging me a rental fee for his heat gun if I did that.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2011 22:56:48 GMT -5
Nice job J
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Post by bubbasz1 on Dec 16, 2011 11:53:18 GMT -5
Jeff would start charging me a rental fee for his heat gun if I did that. Didn't we go over the rental fee when you picked up the heat gun, I must be getting old, could of swore that was in the paperwork you signed when you picked it up.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 16, 2011 16:09:03 GMT -5
You do fine work there Jason.
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Post by tp on Dec 18, 2011 16:04:54 GMT -5
looks good Jason ........ J eff told me his rental fee is only few dollars a day......
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2011 17:07:14 GMT -5
looks good Jason ........ J eff told me his rental fee is only few dollars a day...... Ask jeff if he cares to discuss rental fees. I`d guess, no. It`s just what we all should do to help when we can.
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Post by RAM Z on Dec 20, 2011 13:55:07 GMT -5
Now to figure out what shade of red to paint it. This was a 64 wheel and the red under the cap was metallic red. 66s match the red on the column. Decisions..... 
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