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Post by roofgunner on Mar 26, 2022 13:24:24 GMT -5
I have not been on the site for quite a while and just too busy. I did post a new avatar of my car, which is now finished, but of course they are "never" quite finished. But I am happy and it runs great. Not a 442 by serial number but it does have a 4bbl carb, 4speed 2004r by Janis, and the 2 pipes are a pair of Walt V.'s (OCA member) recreated original 442 pipes. I consider it a "car the engineers would have liked to put on the showrooms but the suits said "NO! The car is period correct I think, with the exception of the Quick Fuel carb and some very minor parts. Mark Rremmel built the engine 468 "D".
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Post by roofgunner on Nov 5, 2017 15:52:46 GMT -5
I went to Rock Auto and got a Hayden 2947($61.88 to my door and it came fast) and returned the other clutch and I called Hayden and I called USMW. USMW makes only one fan clutch that is about 3/4 in shorter. The guy was nice enough to refer me to Hayden because he said they have the shortest one 2947. The Hayden people were nice and turned me on to the 2947. OPGI gave me a refund.
So I have all this installed and it's a PIA to get that fan clutch unit onto the water pump but I did it. The fan is the Derele 17118. At one point on the shroud (it's the large plastic one made by the fellow in Florida) there is slightly(1/8 in) less than the 3/4 inch clearance between the shroud and the fan blade that they warn you about. Should I install the 17 inch fan?(17118) It is, according to the manufacturer 3/4 of an inch less in diameter than the 18 inch. I've got 468 CID (no AC) to chill.
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Post by roofgunner on Oct 22, 2017 16:02:19 GMT -5
I did some research since I made the post. First of all the part number and catalog numbers and the number on the USMW box don't coincide with each other. Then I went to the USMW website where I entered my part number and after entering that they showed where the dimensions were and they don't match the part I have. I will be on the phone tomorrow. I also looked further in the build sheet and the cars did have fan clutches. So stand by and I will get the wind on this!!!
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Post by roofgunner on Oct 22, 2017 15:00:30 GMT -5
I need some advice on what to do regarding the fan for my car. I purchased a Fan Clutch, Thermal 1967-72 400/455 22049 OPGI #CH25855 and the fan 18' 17118 that goes with it. My radiator is 2.68 inches thick. The car is a 65 Olds Cutlass that had a 330 inch motor. I have the plastic 442 shroud that fits. The radiator was enlarged and I think it's five row or four. The engine is a 425 block (468 cid). The water pump is the shortest one.
The problem is that if I would put the fan clutch on the end of the pully the clutch runs into the radiator. I tried the original fan that was on the 330 and held it up to the pully and there is enough clearance. I have not yet investigated with came on a 65 442 with or without AC as far as fan clutches or the size of the radiator. I looks like I will have to for go the idea of a fan clutch.
So if anyone who's "been there done that" I would appreciate it.
Thanks. Tom
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Post by roofgunner on Jul 7, 2017 8:07:33 GMT -5
My Canton pan is 6 quarts. I guess the advantage is that they have baffles so as to prevent oil pick up issues, etc. I have decided per other more experienced persons to just install the engine then the transmission. I'd rather do that than remove parts from the front of the car.
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Post by roofgunner on Jul 7, 2017 7:55:39 GMT -5
Go to NAPA and get the torque converter bolts. These are hardened. They are special bolt and have a flange on them; no washer. I don't think you need washers BUT the ones from NAPA have a blue Loctite already on them.
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Post by roofgunner on Jul 4, 2017 9:49:32 GMT -5
I have a Canton oil pan installed of a 455(468)block and a 200R4 transmission and WAS planning to install both at once but now after reading the first two posts I don't know?? I was going to inquire whether or not to remove the top grill part to make putting in the motor trans easier but NOW?? The Canton pan adds about 2 1/2 inches at the bottom. To Dads442: where did you see the post about the motor and trans being put in separately??
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Post by roofgunner on Feb 8, 2017 16:28:20 GMT -5
FYI I wanted to inspect my heater box, core, blower motor before I put the motor in the car. I decided to replace the blower motor, heater core, seals, and anything I could. I made the heater box look like new.
I got a heater core from OPGI. It fits fine. The AC Delco blower motor accepted the original fan and that all fit. The heater box seal from the Parts Place all fit. I had to remove the inner fender to get to the one screw that's on top and hidden, but that all worked OK.
The only problem is I got the pair of heater core clips that hold the core in place. The old ones were in good shape and I'm glad I kept them. OPGI sent me (at about $39) the nicely painted blue, well made clips. Problem is the don't fit either heater core. They could be altered, cut with a Dremel but for $39 they should fit, so I used the old ones. I sent the new ones back for credit. The salesman told me to send an email to the tech dept. of OPGI. So I sent eight good photos to them why they won''t fit. There has been no response. Their catalog shows the part number fits (CH30529) fits 64-72 heater cores. The packet that contained the clips shows 68-72 Pont.
I would suggest to save your clips or make your own.
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Post by roofgunner on Jan 19, 2017 8:41:39 GMT -5
I got the carpet put on the console. On page 1-2.7 of the assembly manual it shows a side diagram with the carpet being tucked under the console body. I cut the carpet to fit with some to tuck and used Goop contact adhesive and for the flat area Eastwood carpet adhesive. I used close pins and made cuts and folded the carpet over the edges. Time consuming but it works.
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Post by roofgunner on Jan 4, 2017 20:38:23 GMT -5
What you are saying makes sense to me. In other words the carpet should be afixed to the plastic console base BEFORE it is installed, and as you say, the carpet is rolled underneath, then the console is installed and this would give the blended appearance. With the carpet this way there would be no need for piping or vinyl edges.
I guess another way of looking at it was at the factory they had the consoles already set aside with the carpet on them in various colors, so when a blue carpeted car came down the line, someone grabbed the appropriate console (auto or stick)with the blue carpet and screwed it down and that's all that was needed except to finish installing the other console parts like the chrome. thanks.
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Post by roofgunner on Jan 4, 2017 11:57:05 GMT -5
I have installed new carpet in my 65 that has the automatic in the console. I have the pieces cut that extend up the sides of the console and overlap on the carpet on both sides. My question is: Did the the bottom edges have the piping on them to give it a finished look or did they come without it? The carpet that was in the car when I got it was not the original. It did not have it. I need to know whether or not to have my upholstery guy put it on. Thank you for any help.
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Post by roofgunner on Jan 2, 2017 16:06:58 GMT -5
I'm not an engine builder but make sure the engine it self is in A1 shape. I mean bearings, clearances, valves or the guts of it. Then you have to figure do you want it to look stock or not and it's originality. Then you probably know that the more money you spend doesn't co-incide with increased power. For example I am putting the W-manifolds on an engine because I like the stock look and I don't want to mess with leaks or even the chances of them But they are better than the stock ones. So it's give and take. I would say a strong ignition system, free flowing exhaust system. The other thing is go to an Olds convention. There are all kinds of people there that will help you and esp the drag racers. I went to the one in Milwaukee, WI a couple of years ago. I talked so many people. The one conversation that sticks in my mind was an older fellow (older than me and I' 64). I told him what I had going on. He made some wise comments one of which basically said this, so I will paraphrase: "Well, you know one thing I've learned is that I am amused at these guys building these big motors and they always want to go faster. They build a big motor. Then they can't get traction. Then they add bigger tires, posi-traction, traction bars, slicks and everything else. But, when you take out some of the "give" things begin to come apart." So true.
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Post by roofgunner on Jan 2, 2017 15:32:55 GMT -5
I had mine done on my 65 auto console and it turned out quite well but not like it came from the factory but I am happy with it and the cost was $400.00 You can spend $1500 or more for show chrome. I didn't know that much about chroming but the guy who did mine explained the issue with chroming pot metal, and the pitting. So much depends on how bad the pits are.
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Post by roofgunner on Jan 2, 2017 15:26:47 GMT -5
On the drivers side wheel well there are three plastic hold downs for the wire, washer tube, etc. The ones on my 65 are/were small and weak compared to the ones on my 70 442. The 70's require holes and not slots like that are in the 65. I ordered three from the Parts Place that would go with the 70. So what I did (I DID NOT want to drill more holes in the fender well) was to cut the push pins off, level the remains with a Dremel sanding disk then attach them with 4 inch cable ties via two (per side) 5/64 (.1)holes drilled in foot of the plastic clip. The plastic cable ties come through a slot NOT a hole, so they stay secured. You cannot drill the slots and use the later plastic hold downs as the slots are too close together. And you have to look closely on the underside to tell they aren't the push pins sticking through there. My guess is that someone at Olds realized the weak hold downs need to be beefed up so it was changed later.
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Post by roofgunner on Dec 26, 2016 10:46:09 GMT -5
Wiper update. Everything works. Jason La Rock in Kasson, MN restored the wiper motor and other parts as needed. It looks like new. I installed the assembly making sure all grounds were good and the other connections cleaned and di-electric grease applied to same. The wiper switch that came in the NOS box (which had the number 1993665) also had "64 Chevy" written on it. It is the same length and fits, however the paddle connection is different than the original and the one shown in the assembly manual. Somewhere, possibly, someone or a parts guy, knew that he had a switch that would work in the Cutlass except for the paddle connections. I can see this happening esp in an Olds/Chevy dealership. Of course I will never know. After verifying(with an Ohm meter) which combo worked and connected with what, I put covered paddle (female) connections on the two black and one blue wire. I put the blue wire on the center connected paddle for the washer. Then hooked up the two blacks, grounded the switch to the dash and turned on the ignition switch. Nothing happened. Then I turned on the wiper switch and it operated properly and so it the washer pump. So it's good. Then I had to find out what would happen if I reversed the two black wires. When you do that, no matter what you do with the wiper switch the wiper won't shut off. So the bottom line is a 50/50 chance that you will get it right. Just remember to hook up the washer contact in the CENTER paddle that would coincide with the washer button contact.
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Post by roofgunner on Nov 26, 2016 10:07:31 GMT -5
Part of the problem is that the old switch had broken and not together ie. the plastic part that contains the three connectors was not in good shape so I didn't know whether to trust readings but I did try.( The guy that had the car before me had done something with the wiring and the connector for the old switch was not stock.)It appeared that that both switches do the same thing and it was hard to hold the pieces of the original switch together while performing the tests. The washer motor behaved the same way no matter how the three wires were connected or what the voltage was. So I called one of the OCA 65 advisors. He told me, and I agree that since the motor has been tested with two switches and directly without a switch then replace or rebuild the unit. What the motor does is it runs a little one way then the other just enough to move the wipers a few inches. So the relay or switching mechanism must have failed. So I removed the motor. This two speed motor has the ground strap on it which you can't see unless you remove the motor. (I think he told the one speed had a separate one.) So I am going to have the unit rebuilt because I want it original. Upon removal of the motor I can tell it is the original. Now I can have a chance of cleaning, etc. the area underneath the cowl cover and around where the motor is mounted. Then I'm going to use the ohm meter and trace exactly where the three wires that connect to the switch on the dash end up at the motor unit. Thank you for the PDF you sent and thank you for your help!! I have saved it and will read it. I have found that working on vehicles(and I learned this many years ago)is like taking a trip: sometimes there are detours, rough roads, traffic, etc. but they all lead to smooth roads and you learn along the trip!
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Post by roofgunner on Nov 25, 2016 15:50:53 GMT -5
Nothing worked. I called an 65 OCA advisor and he said it is probably the motor. So I pulled it out. It is the original with little doubt. "DELCO APPLIANCE, Rochester, NY. Made in USA. 4914569" #7 on the motor. It will be replaced and the original kept. Now I can do more cleaning and lubricating, etc.
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Post by roofgunner on Nov 25, 2016 13:22:36 GMT -5
I am going to try putting a full 12 volts into the system. I called CollectorsAutoSupply.com, where I got the switch #1993665 and the fellow checked the number and he said it will fit a 65 Olds Cutlass w/2 speed wiper. I will make sure the wiper motor is grounded.
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Post by roofgunner on Nov 25, 2016 12:19:11 GMT -5
To a certain extent I might be over my head in this, however I usually figure things out. First of all, the engine is not in the car and I am powering the system for test with a 10 amp battery charger and according to my volt meter it is putting in around 9.5 volts. So when I hooked up the switch or touched the wires the wiper motor works but the arms don't go all the way across and just go up and down a little. (I made extended wires via spade connectors so I didn't have to be under the dash.)The Olds manual speaks of a ground strap for the washer motor and I don't see one. I do have the cowl ground strap connect with the main ground for the battery. As far as the two switches are concerned I cannot say the original is in 100% order. I did try different connections with the NOS chevy switch and with the switch OFF all I could get was for the wiper to move (although it won't fully cycle) when I turned the ignition switch on but with any connection the switch didn't have any effect. So I'm thinking that maybe I should wait until I get full voltage. I have no experience with windshield washers.
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Post by roofgunner on Nov 24, 2016 20:01:20 GMT -5
I needed a new two speed wiper switch for my 65 Cutlass. I found what they claimed to be a NOS switch for my car so I had them send it. It is identical in size, shape and it fits like the original one. The box had written on it 64 chevy truck. The difference is the three connecting paddles are in a different configuration. Am I going to be able , through hit and miss, to connect my three wires (one blue and two black)to this switch and have my wipers/washer work properly?
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