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Post by wally324 on Apr 14, 2018 7:37:46 GMT -5
I can finally get started to work on the '65 Cutlass convertible. I bought a very nice frame from PopzOldz (Cary). We have been talking about this for a few years now and I had to come up with a Tow Vehicle. Cary worked with me and we finally connected a couple weeks ago. When I got home with the frame I was greeted with a couple inches of snow and 30 degrees. I'll have to wait for some warmer weather before I can pressure wash the frame and haul it to get it sandblasted and powdercoated. I can't thank Cary enough for working with me and helping me get started on my project! Wally
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Post by wally324 on Oct 31, 2017 21:44:06 GMT -5
I picked up this piece of trim because I was sure someone would need it. It is in VERY good condition. I can send pictures if you are interested. I would like to get $50 for it plus shipping. Wally
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Post by wally324 on Feb 2, 2015 9:09:46 GMT -5
We are all welcome to our opinions. The crack was caused by the steering stop hitting the A Arm. The key to the repair was adding the backing plate that now distributes that stress over a larger area. As far as I am concerned the arm is stronger now than it was originally. I am thinking about adding the backing plate to the other arm to prevent it from cracking in the future.
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Post by wally324 on Jan 31, 2015 11:11:17 GMT -5
The problem stems from the fact that the steering stop hits the A Arm just behind where the crack originated. I ground out the crack, welded it up, then added an 1/8" thick backer plate to the area where the steering stop hits so as far as I am concerned it is stronger than the original A arm. The main reason for my post was to warn others about the possibility of the crack in their A arms. Have you checked yours? Wally
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Post by wally324 on Jan 31, 2015 8:25:54 GMT -5
Dave & Looney1, I will keep this in mind for the future. Don't bother warning you about the possibility of a problem because you just get criticized on this board. BTW Dave, It is "You're an accident looking to happen."
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Post by wally324 on Jan 28, 2015 12:23:08 GMT -5
I originally posted this to warn others to look for this same crack in the LOWER control arm of their cars. I am trying to keep my car original so I am not converting to tubular control arms. I have welded the control arm and added an 11 gage reinforcing stripe to the inside of the arm where the crack occurred. If anyone is interested in the repair just let me know. Wally
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Post by wally324 on Jan 17, 2015 9:47:17 GMT -5
Dave, I just looked at Rock Auto and they have a rubber "Bushing" under "Suspension" for the rear axle. It appears to fit into a slot. I don't know if this is what you are looking for but you can search it and enlarge the picture to see if it looks like what you are after. You can also talk to their tech people to see if it is what you want.
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Post by wally324 on Jan 17, 2015 9:29:23 GMT -5
Keep in mind this is off my '67 Chevelle. Is the lower A arm on the Cutlass the same as the Chevelle? I know that some of the steering components are common between the Cutlass and Chevelle but I'm not sure about the A Arms. Wally
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Post by wally324 on Jan 17, 2015 7:57:28 GMT -5
Here is my plan, I have ground out the crack, next I weld it together again, then add a backing plate on the inside.
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Post by wally324 on Jan 16, 2015 18:38:36 GMT -5
It worked, I don't know what I did wrong in the past. Thanks for the help Stan!
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Post by wally324 on Jan 16, 2015 18:37:17 GMT -5
Thanks Stan, That is what I have done and I will try it again here. In the past the picture does not show up, just the IMG code, not picture. One more try.
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Post by wally324 on Jan 16, 2015 9:25:55 GMT -5
OK Dave, I apologize to you for flying off the handle. I tried several times to post pictures following the instructions but rather than getting help from anyone I felt like I was getting criticized. Wally
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Post by wally324 on Jan 15, 2015 10:09:40 GMT -5
When I found this crack I posted this thread to warn the rest of the you about the possibility of the problem. Now after being called a "Knuckle Dragger" I am wondering why I should even participate on this board. Wally
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Post by wally324 on Jan 13, 2015 9:16:26 GMT -5
Bummer, I just dropped the driveshaft the other night. The car is on jacks so all I have to do is figure out how I can lock the input to the rear end. Maybe a pipe held to the yoke by the U-bolts will do it. I would like to confirm it rather than having to pull the rear end apart. Thanks, Wally
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Post by wally324 on Jan 10, 2015 15:25:15 GMT -5
Thanks Shane, I don't want to start tearing it apart right now. I just wanted to get an idea whether it was Posi or not.
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Post by wally324 on Jan 10, 2015 11:53:07 GMT -5
Seems I read somewhere that you can easily identify a Posi Rear End by jacking up the rear end, rotating the driveshaft and if the wheels both turn the same direction it's a Posi. Is this true or not?
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Post by wally324 on Jan 9, 2015 20:03:02 GMT -5
I tried following your instructions on posting pictures but they aren't very clear and I couldn't get them to work.
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Post by wally324 on Jan 9, 2015 18:56:44 GMT -5
I am passing this along for anyone working on their front suspension. I am currently working on the suspension of my '67 Chevelle. They use many of the same parts as the '65 Cutlass. I pulled the lower A arm off the passenger side of my Chevelle and while cleaning it up I noticed a crack just inboard of the ball joint. It appears that the steering arm stop hits just inboard of the crack. I have taken pictures of the crack but I haven't figured out how to post pictures here. If you want copies just PM me and give your email address. Wally
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Post by wally324 on Dec 31, 2014 8:30:49 GMT -5
Wishing all of you a Happy and Prosperous New Year. May all of your 442 dreams come true!
2014 was a very good year for me. Highlights were the purchase of a '67 Chevelle and the '65 Cutlass convertible! Wally
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Post by wally324 on Dec 21, 2014 10:08:23 GMT -5
Wish you weren't so far away. It would cost a lot to ship from Long Island to Minnesota.
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