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Post by RIP OLDS on Aug 23, 2017 9:05:53 GMT -5
Any special methods needed when priming newly rebuilt olds 400?
Was going to do this.
1-remove both valve cover s
2-remove distributer
3-add engine oil and break in fluid (zinc) to engine and oil filter
4-use drill to spin distributer gear ccw
5-spin until oil spurts out of each valve train
6-rotate engine 90 degrees and spin again. Do this two more times (is this step necessary?
7 - reassemble to start
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Post by joepadavano on Aug 23, 2017 11:59:43 GMT -5
Looks good, though to be honest I've never done the rotate and repeat thing. I did finally get a 5/16" hex Ford priming tool. No more worrying about the socket coming off the extension.  |
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Post by RIP OLDS on Aug 23, 2017 15:36:39 GMT -5
I looked at the ford one, but was told it wouldn't fit the olds even though they are both 5/16. No one seems to make one, but found an olds shop in NY that makes them.
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Post by joepadavano on Aug 23, 2017 15:59:23 GMT -5
I looked at the ford one, but was told it wouldn't fit the olds even though they are both 5/16. Whoever told you that has no clue. As I said, I have one. It works fine. Think I paid about $10 or so on line. The centering disk is slightly large to fit in the Olds distributor hole, but you don't really need it anyway. If I get ambitious, I'll turn it down, but for now I just don't use the disk. |
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Post by jims442 on Aug 23, 2017 19:58:24 GMT -5
Just make sure your in park or out of gear not to make fun
,but those who know my experience ,if you look at early photos you will know
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Post by stan65cutlass on Aug 23, 2017 21:15:28 GMT -5
i do recall seeing jims car fire up and slowly roll out of the frame
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Post by Big Mike on Aug 26, 2017 19:56:35 GMT -5
It may not be necessary, but I always have someone to rotate the engine while priming. I would spin up the drill until I get resistance, then start turning the engine over. I know Joe "The Rocket Scientist" says it's not needed, but I've done this to every engine I have ever done.
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Post by joepadavano on Aug 27, 2017 8:31:53 GMT -5
It may not be necessary, but I always have someone to rotate the engine while priming. I would spin up the drill until I get resistance, then start turning the engine over. I know Joe "The Rocket Scientist" says it's not needed, but I've done this to every engine I have ever done. It certainly won't hurt anything to rotate the motor. To be honest, it probably does help with getting the lifters filled. |
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Post by mongoose on Aug 28, 2017 8:29:07 GMT -5
I didn't do steps #1 and #5... seems like it just invites a big mess to potentially have to clean up. I just spun the oil pump for about 5 minutes... which was about as long as my corded 3/8" drill could handle before it was overheating and getting to the point it couldn't continue spinning against the pressure of the oil. BTW... if you have a larger, 1/2" drill, it'll handle the pre-lube process a lot better.
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