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Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2017 13:35:14 GMT -5
Hello everybody, I have been recently added to your forum. I own a 1965 442 auto-console that I purchased in 1982. In 2004 we pulled the motor and trans and had them rebuilt. Other than the wheels, seats and carpets the car is completely stock. I need to put new mufflers and pipes on it and am considering headers. I do not race the car, just drive it around town and up and down the freeway. Maybe I should stick with the stock manifolds? Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
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Post by jcf85post on Aug 5, 2017 13:11:09 GMT -5
stick with manifolds,you will be glad over and over you did
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Post by joepadavano on Aug 7, 2017 9:11:23 GMT -5
If you don't care about being completely correct, the W/Z manifolds from the 1969-72 cars are a nice upgrade. These have individual runners so the flow better than the original open log manifolds from 1965. Personally, I would run real full length headers, but that's just me.
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Post by john442 on Aug 7, 2017 11:25:54 GMT -5
I don't know if headers cause starter problems due to heat or not. I had a bb chevelle and had to add a heat
shield to eliminate that problem. Maybe others on this site know the answer.
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Post by joepadavano on Aug 7, 2017 11:31:05 GMT -5
I don't know if headers cause starter problems due to heat or not. I had a bb chevelle and had to add a heat shield to eliminate that problem. Maybe others on this site know the answer. Well, the BB Chevy has completely different starter location and header routing... As for Olds motors, if the starter wiring is weak (corroded or dirty terminals, fraying wires, etc) or if the solenoid contacts or brushes are pitted from arcing, the added heat will exacerbate the resistance problem and cause starting issues. If the starter and wiring are in good shape, not a problem. |
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Post by RIP OLDS on Aug 7, 2017 18:04:55 GMT -5
Stick with the stock manifolds. I switched from headers back to stock and it made your type of driving much more enjoyable.
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Post by jcf85post on Aug 7, 2017 18:27:04 GMT -5
headers are like a girl on the side,nothing but aggravation and heartache with a little fun from time to time. headers rot out and blow gaskets after the aggravation of installing them i.e. denting,cutting,grinding,if you aren't uncorking them at the dragstrip why bother?it's worth mentioning i run headers on my 65 because the engine can benefit from them being open at the track.otherwise i hate them.the W/Z manifolds are nice and worth it.
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Post by BR[] on Aug 8, 2017 6:34:23 GMT -5
I don't know if headers cause starter problems due to heat or not. I had a bb chevelle and had to add a heat shield to eliminate that problem. Maybe others on this site know the answer.
I have always run headers and other than the original fitting issues, I have never had any other problems. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2017 20:44:32 GMT -5
Thanks to everybody for the info. I got the manifolds from a 1970 model, took it down to the local muffler shop and had him make me a set of 2 and a half inch pipes with magnaflow mufflers. Sounds nice,runs good. Took it on a 450 mile trip last week, no problems. One more question; Any recommendations on after market radiators? Tired of overheating in stalled traffic. I have the stock spec radiator in it now. Thanks again.
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Post by john442 on Aug 25, 2017 19:55:46 GMT -5
I'm curious about headers vs. stock manifold performance. Is there a significant improvement in HP or quarter mile time/speed due to a good set of headers? Would the improvement be very noticeable when going through the gears on the street?
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Post by joepadavano on Aug 26, 2017 10:00:13 GMT -5
I'm curious about headers vs. stock manifold performance. Is there a significant improvement in HP or quarter mile time/speed due to a good set of headers? Would the improvement be very noticeable when going through the gears on the street? Typical back-to-back tests have consistently demonstrated about a 20HP improvement over manifolds when using properly designed long-tube headers. Shorty headers, not so much. W/Z manifolds are internally divided and are definitely better than the stock 1965 open manifolds but not as good as headers. The bottom line is that the improvements are additive. The engine needs to be built so that all systems are matched. Intake, carb, exhaust, distributor, cam, etc all need to be selected for the intended operating range for maximum output. Simply changing to an 800 CFM Holley on an otherwise stock motor, as an example, will usually HURT performance. Improving exhaust flow is a necessary part of building horsepower, but is by no means the only part. |
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