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Post by dads442 on Jun 30, 2017 21:02:16 GMT -5
looking for a little help here based on someones experience...
I have a 65 442 that will have a mildly built 455 in it...355:1 rear end manual trans...we currently have a Miloden oil pan #30305 7 quart low profile for it...my question is...based on others experience... will I have any clearance issues with this pan...it is not yet installed on the engine so it could be sent back if it has any issues...just trying to eliminate any future fitment issues
thanks in advance
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Post by dads442 on Jul 1, 2017 21:59:01 GMT -5
I guess no one has used this set up?...
I did a search earlier and found one that said he had used this pan on his car with no issues...no mention of what engine or trans...found another on a different site that said the only issue was that the engine and trans had to be installed separately???
just looking for a yeah or nay based on some experience
Thanks...
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Post by joepadavano on Jul 2, 2017 8:32:44 GMT -5
I don't have any personal experience, but the engine used doesn't matter. Every single Olds block cast from 1964-1990 is exactly the same dimensionally from the cam down. The only differences are the deck height, and that has zero impact on the oil pan fitment. Motor mount holes are in exactly the same places on every one of those blocks, as is the starter, oil pump location, and oil filter adapter. I don't understand what the trans has to do with it either. The ability to install the engine and trans together would seem to be a function of the chassis, not the trans. Keep in mind that the 64-67 A-body chassis is about 1.5 inches narrower than the 68-72 chassis. This is why most headers aren't shown as fitting the early cars.
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Post by dads442 on Jul 2, 2017 10:22:24 GMT -5
Thank you Joe for your response...
I know the pan will fit the block...was more concerned about any clearance issues between the pan and the chassis...the thread I read said they had to install trans and engine separately as they wouldn't go in place bolted together??? not sure why...whatever
again thanks for your response...
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Post by joepadavano on Jul 2, 2017 10:27:30 GMT -5
Thank you Joe for your response... I know the pan will fit the block... I understand. I was responding to this statement: |
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Post by dads442 on Jul 2, 2017 19:01:08 GMT -5
yeah ok...appreciate your responses...was just hoping for some first hand experience with this set up so that I would know for sure that this $$$ pan won't cause me any clearance issues...supposed to have plenty of ground clearance being low profile...
thanks again
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Post by roofgunner on Jul 4, 2017 9:49:32 GMT -5
 I have a Canton oil pan installed of a 455(468)block and a 200R4 transmission and WAS planning to install both at once but now after reading the first two posts I don't know?? I was going to inquire whether or not to remove the top grill part to make putting in the motor trans easier but NOW?? The Canton pan adds about 2 1/2 inches at the bottom. To Dads442: where did you see the post about the motor and trans being put in separately?? |
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Post by dads442 on Jul 4, 2017 12:19:50 GMT -5
I believe it was on the Classic Olds site...can't remember for sure...been a couple of days...old age, brain like a sieve...
The other search I did was on this site and it said they had no fitment or clearance problems, I believe it was BigMike from a while back...maybe he will lend an ear...
I didn't see any other issues except maybe starter and I will be using a mini so I am going to go with the current purchase...no headers...well maybe shorty's...the ones that were on it looked like they had been thru a war...dimpled, trashed on the bottom...so bent up I had to cut them off...pan was trash...been raced at some point in its life...engine was a complete disaster when it was torn down...anyway all that has been changed...total rebuild...had some issues getting the engine out with manual trans still attached...mostly with the tunnel...core support was still in place at the time...will install this time with all of that out of the way...I think...
anyway good luck with your build...
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Post by dads442 on Jul 4, 2017 12:59:49 GMT -5
Out of curiosity went back and looked again at the Classic Olds site to see just where it was I found the thread mentioned...it was under 455 OIL PAN CHOICES, repair and Restoration, Engines, Big block, August 2014...thread said that the installation issue was with the 8 quart pans as they are deeper, my mistake, I apologize, Joe, roofgunner,...according to the person posting the tread the Miloden was the best fitting 7 quart pan for the A body cars, 64 thru 67
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Post by mongoose on Jul 5, 2017 8:35:04 GMT -5
I can lend some insight, as I use the 7-quart pan today (and have for 25 years).
The 7-quart pan will hang flush, or just slightly above the bottom of the cross-member. When I scrape something, it's always my headers that meet the pavement, not the oil pan. Many, many years ago I had installed an 8 quart pan. That was a really bad idea for a street driven car, the pan was always the first thing to hit, and within short order I had scrapped through and oil was seeping out. Bad judgment from a young kid.
My 455 is paired with a TH400, and there is NO WAY to install with the engine and transmission bolted together (unless the body is lifted from or off the frame). There is just not enough clearance between the crossmember and firewall/transmission tunnel to accommodate the space between the bottom of the pan and the top of the TH400 bell housing. I would be inclined to say it won't clear with your manual transmission bolted to it either, but I'm not familiar enough with the size and shape of the M/T bell housing to say for sure, so I can't speak from experience.
BTW... no other clearance issues for starter, headers, oil filter, etc.
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Post by dads442 on Jul 6, 2017 23:17:19 GMT -5
Hey mongoose...
thanks for your reply...sounds like there are no worries with the pan...car is all apart currently...not sure how it is going back together yet...sure would be easier to install the engine with the front clip off...took it apart when it was all together and whereas it wasn't too painful...it sure would have been easier apart...
Anyway...thanks again...
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Post by roofgunner on Jul 7, 2017 8:07:33 GMT -5
My Canton pan is 6 quarts. I guess the advantage is that they have baffles so as to prevent oil pick up issues, etc. I have decided per other more experienced persons to just install the engine then the transmission. I'd rather do that than remove parts from the front of the car.
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Post by mongoose on Jul 10, 2017 8:21:13 GMT -5
Those Canton pans are sweet pans. It wouldn't matter if you had the front clip installed or not, if you use a deeper pan like the Milodon or the Canton, you can't install with the trans bolted to the engine. The clearance issue is between the transmission tunnel and firewall, and the frame cross member. The body would have to be lifted a few inches. Frankly I even wait to bolt the flex plate/flywheel onto the crankshaft until AFTER I've installed the engine. I have the factory throttle linkage/stator switch, and the flex plate uses up valuable space when trying to slip the engine into place. I could could remove the entire throttle linkage assembly from the firewall before I install the engine, but putting it back on with the engine in place seems more like a PITA than bolting up the flex plate after the engine is installed.
Hope these suggestions help.
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