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Post by Burnrubber2 on Sept 28, 2008 22:40:20 GMT -5
Hey guys, I am trying to figure out how many parts I need to replace on this 3:55 cone type posi I pulled out of a '65 cutlass (also had a police calibrated speedo and an m21 muncie stock!) before I put it under my '65 442. I pulled it out of a cutlass that was last licensed in 1972 that had 82K on the clock. I know it would be a good idea to replace the seals, but the bearings should be ok right? Everything is turning smoothly. I had read onetime that aftermarket bearing races for the axles are harder that the axles themselves and if they lock up and spin in the housing the axle tube or axle could be ruined. Is this true? Also, the axle bearings are a sealed type, is there anyway to lubricate these? Also, what is the right way to get the preload correct again if I take off the companiion flange off to change the front seal?
Aslo for the axle seals and pinion seals, is there a correct depth to seat them or is there a shoulder stop inside the housing?
Please chime in if you have time.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2008 8:00:53 GMT -5
talk to brian trick.
his email is: thetrickfamily@yahoo.com
he will tell you anything you need to know... i dont think he builds too many 8.2" rears, but they are similar to the type o rears...
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Post by Mike Stilwell on Oct 7, 2008 11:54:23 GMT -5
Hey guys, I am trying to figure out how many parts I need to replace on this 3:55 cone type posi I pulled out of a '65 cutlass (also had a police calibrated speedo and an m21 muncie stock!) before I put it under my '65 442. ___________________________________________________ Man, do you have that speedo, and would you be willing to sell it? I have been looking for a police calibrated police speedo for a 65 Cutlass/442 for awhile now. I really want to build a 65 Cutlass police cruiser, I'd love any information or leads on an actual 65 police cruiser or the parts. To answer some of your questions, yes the bearings are harder than the axle and they will ruin an axle if they lock up and spin on the axle. I have one from my sports coupe that looks like it was cut on a lathe. If everything is turning and it isn't making any noise while moving by hand, you may not need to replace the bearings. However, I would check thoroughly for any rust. If there isn't any you should be ok, but if there is some surface rust, it could cause premature failure. The ring and pinion should be just fine. There should be shoulder stops for both the pinion and axles. Most every axle I have ever rebuilt has them. I know the axle seals for sure have them on my 65's. Mike Stilwell, OCA #13273 Secretary, Capitol City Rockets www.capitolcityrockets.orgwww.bigmikes442.com |
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